OK, now I'll be an image pasting fool :) I wanted the bench at the end of the tub/shower for shaving legs, or maybe I just want to sit around with conditioner in my hair. I think something like this could work (though again, not sure if its alcove or other type of tub) [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Houston Interior Designers & Decorators Dena Brody, ASID, RID This is nice too (but doesn't look like alcove, looks like drop in and the deck/front looks like it would be $$$) [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by San Francisco General Contractors Cardea Building Co. Also love the modern look of these tubs [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Portland Kitchen & Bath Designers Kirstin Havnaer, Hearthstone Interior Design, LLC [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Toronto Interior Designers & Decorators Toronto Interior Design Group : Yanic Simard

I don't see a photo. So to start with I'll ask was the tub installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions? Most instructions include how the tub should be secured, and how the tub flange should relate to the tile backer board hung on the walls. With that out of the way... My "blind" response? If the cement board is proud of the tub flange, no worries. The bottom course of wall tile will cover the tub flange. Typically the bottom course of wall tile will be held above the tub deck by the with of a grout line, and that gap will later be filled with a bead of caulk. Often times the caulk can be color- and texture-matched to the grout. If the tub flange is proud of the cement board, yes, that can be an issue. If it just gets tiled over, the protruding flange can cause the bottom course of wall tile to kick out of plane with the tile above. It'll skew the tiles themselves plus it'll skew the vertical linearity of the tile in the wall-to-wall corners. If there is any movement in the tub, from loading with water, from bathers, any movement in the tub can cause friction squeaks because of differential movement with the tile being in contact with the flange. If the tub installation is fine, the existing cement board can be removed. 1/4" rips (or whatever thickness is needed) from a 2x4 can be fastened to the edge of each stud to pack out the framing, then the cement board can be reinstalled over the packed out studs so the cement board properly clears the tub flange. If the tub does not have to be reset, that is my preferred solution. An alternative would be to thinset and screw a second layer of cement board over the existing cement board. The thinset is there to fill any voids between the two layer to prevent differential movement. The long screws are what will fasten the new cement board to the studs. Regardless, make sure whatever waterproofing that is to be used on the walls is reconsidered and adjusted if required.

I know this is an old thread. I'm comtemplating if I want a tub at all but if I get an air or a jetted tub, if the sides have stone around, how do you reach the motor if you need a repair? Just curious if anyone has dealt with that situation. For my current outdated tub, I can reach the motor through the the cabinet; I have a cut out there. I could do the same thing. But adding a slab of quartz to a tub make for a very expensive tub. Dominique, what did you decide and are you happy with your decision?

Thanks for your response Cook's! We had another company come in and inform us that they thought we just had a tub liner. Are you saying that it's impossible to just have a tub liner with no bathtub underneath it? We recently removed some of the silicone caulking and found wide gaps between the tub and the surround. Here's a picture of where the tub meets the surround (and how the company left our floor).