Unique Toilet Leaking Problem

last month

I hear a drip coming from the toilet. Sometimes fast and sometimes slow. I look for water on the floor and water damage on the wall near the inlet valve to the toilet... nothing. I flush the toilet, tank fills but the drip persists, however, the tank remains FULL, no refilling of the tank... period! I decided to flush the toilet and turn the inlet vavle off to see if the drip stops and it didn't. So, I call a plumber. They check the usual suspects and have a thermal detector and sonic hearing device. They came up empty. So, today, I flush the toilet, turn off inlet valve, and no drip. I've repeated this 3x's with success. Is the issue in the toilet or in the wall? It can't be in the wall because water damage would be obvious by now as the toilet is upstairs in the MSTR BATH and no evidence directly below in the living room. This problem has been going on for at least 2 months solid. Just remember, the tank is not refilling, not once. I NEED HELP!!!!

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Comments (4)

John 9a
last month
I have a couple of possible sources for your toilet water drip but I would have thought your plumber would have been specifically looking for my proposed sources....it's just so common I think he would have been looking for it. I assume the drip IS from the toilet since it stops when you turn off the toilet source water.

The answer might be different, or troubleshot differently, depending on the type of ballcock your toilet has....the system it uses to fill and shut off when the tank is full. If I had to guess, I would say the valve that shuts off the water when the tank is full has a small leak. When the tank fills, typically, a float rises with the water level and eventually rises high enough to shut off the fill water. If that valve leaks a bit, the drip will ultimately raise the water level enough to enter the overflow pipe and enter the toilet bowl.....one drip at a time so you won't notice water entering the toilet bowl at that rate. The easiest way I know to check for this issue is to leave the cover off the tank on the back of the toilet and either watch for the drip....or look to see if the water level rises to the overflow line after some period. If the drip is very slow, water might even be evaporating from the tank faster than the drip is filling it.

One other possibility is very much related. There is in many/most ballcocks a small flexible line that ends just inside the overflow pipe. This line helps to refill the toilet bowl as the tank is refilling. If the drip is coming from this line, the drip will be bypassing the tank and dripping down into the toilet bowl (via an inner route). You can pull this flexible line out of the overflow pipe and watch it for drips. If it drips, the solution is still replacing the ballcock.
HU-709167358
Original Author
last month
last modified: last month
John, I've had those issues you described in the past, so I jumped to those right away. I have an extensive background in R/R toilet innards, none of what you just mentioned is an issue. Why you ask, that would require the toilet tank to drain. If you read my issue thoroughly, you will note that the tank DOES NOT refill at periodic intervals throughout the day or night at all. Additionally, I would also see water agitated in the toilet bowl if it were coming out of the overflow line and the overflow itself, as those noises are would make a rookie take notice. I've inspected all the pieces with a fine tooth comb. The system doesn't have a "ball cock" assembly, but a more modern tank filling assembly. I don't want to waste the $$ on buying a bunch of equipment an the problem is not rectified.
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It might be a good idea to actually read over your insurance policy to see for yourself what it says. I would also ask for an adjuster (not your sales agent) to come and look at the damage. My son had a leak in his second floor bathroom which damaged the ceiling in his kitchen below. He had to tear out the tub/shower wall tile and the tub to get to the source of the leak. That tub/shower tile matched the tile wainscoting around the whole room and was no longer available. Taking the cast iron tub out involved removing floor tile. Just like your leak, the project became complicated. Neither he or I thought it it would be something that his homeowner's insurance would pay for, but a buddy of his told him he had a similar situation and his insurance did pay. My son did make a claim and it was successful. The insurance company ended up covering the cost of demo, the labor and materials for the new pipes, flooring, walls, valves, faucets, shower base, toilet, sink, vanity, tile and more. It also paid for fixing his kitchen ceiling. If my son hadn't upgraded to a few things like granite counters, heated floors and glass shower doors his insurance settlement would have paid for nearly the entire repair/remodel. It doesn't cost anything to file a claim so I highly recommend doing so. Hope you end up getting some satisfaction.
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Water in that area is usually because the wax seal between the toilet and the floor has been compromised. That area only has water in it when the toilet is flushed, so it may not leak if the toilet is not being used. If the toilet is cracked anywhere, it is more likely to be the tank than the base, unless someone has been moving something and managed to whack the toilet base very hard. Fill the tank with a quart or two of water and then see if any water leaks out where it meets the base. If it does, it could be the rubber ring/seal, or it could be a crack. You can get any plumber or good quality handyman to replace the wax seal at the toilet flange in the floor. They will have to unbolt and pull the toilet off, replace the seal and the bolts, and bolt the toilet back to the floor. Its a fairly easy job if you've done it once, but it takes a little skill and finesse to get it all lined up when you bolt the toilet back down. You need to drop it directly down on top of the seal and bolts and then push it into place (sit on it) to seat and seal the wax ring. However, when you are holding the toilet up by yourself the bowl usually blocks your view of the bolt alignment. A helper is very useful. Bruce
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klem1
last month
If you don't find it after doing as John9A said here's something else easy. The flapper (rubber piece pulled up by chain each time flushed) can become brittle or otherwise not seal 100% when it returns to seat. Wipe both contact surfaces with rag or paper towel then apply a thin layer of Vaseline to contact surfaces. If drip stops ,replace flapper.
woodbutcher_ca
last month
HI, Does the water ever stop dripping? On newer homes like less than 20 or 30 years The drain lines are ABS or PVC. Those type make more noise that Cast Iron. When you flush the toilet a lot of water leaves the toilet, but some water will hang around on the wax ring and drip off, with cast iron you won't hear it with the other types you might.

Good Luck Woodbutcher

Unique Toilet Leaking Problem

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John 9a

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Unique Toilet Leaking Problem

Comments (4)

John 9a

HU-709167358Original Author

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klem1

woodbutcher_ca

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HU-709167358
Original Author