humidity and frost
Jane Hove
3 months ago
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millworkman
3 months agoMissy Bee
3 months agoRelated Discussions
winter humidity in GH
Comments (6)Well, my initial plan would probably involve heating to about 48-50 at night, maybe kicking it up to 60 during the day as a backup for days the sun doesn't warm it enough on its own. It seems there's a balancing act between having enough ventilation to keep humidity and CO2 in check, but not so ventilated you're paying to heat your entire yard. Couple more questions: 1. Regarding ventilation fans/shutters - do yours kick on in winter during cold but sunny days? How do you properly ventilate without too much cold air hitting them? My thought was could I use a hybrid system of natural venting plus a fan that kicks on at a higher temp? I know that for the shutters you can get a shutter motor to open the shutters a few degrees before the fan. However, can you do the same with the shutters on the fan itself? My thought was something like this: You have the fan high up on one side of the GH and the shutters/vents low down on the other side. At 68 degrees or so, the shutters on the low side AND the shutters that cover the fan itself up high can open up, just to let air naturally flow in a bit without too much of a cold air shock. Mostly at this point to keep CO2 and moisture levels in check. Then, if it still continues to heat up despite the small amount of ventilation that occurs, the fan can kick on if it hits 80 or so. 2. Does such a fan exist that has a seperate shutter motor and control from the fan itself?...See MoreBackyard Frost Protection by CRFG
Comments (11)Jose, Thanks for posting that information. I had seen it before when you posted it sometime back. It a good reminder and very applicable at certain times of the year. Some of these practices are indeed used by me the many Citrus growers in my area. They do work quite well. It is a well kept secret that Louisiana does indeed have a small (compared to Florida and California) Citrus Industry. The taste of Louisiana citrus rivals the fruit that is grown in Florida and California because it has a better sugar to acid ratio. Our farmers did a great job of protecting MANY citrus trees from the unusually cold winter that we had in our area this past season. I lost some but saved most of my citrus from the cold temperatures that we experienced. Fruitnut...... Wind chill is a function of both AIR temperature and its relative humidity level. And yes indeed, WIND CHILL CAN AFFECT PLANTS. Here is some technical information that I posted in another thread to help explain this multi variable phenomenon. [This is FYI only and for those other forum members who might want to know some "WHY's" behind potential leaf damage due to cold............it is not just about AIR TEMPERATURE. It is also about wind, leaf temperature, and air humidity level. On a windy night with clear or cloudy skies LEAF temperature will be nearly the same as AIR temperature. However, on a cold, clear night with little to no air movement.....leaf temperature can easily drop 3 to 4 degrees lower than the ambient air temperature. (It can drop as much as 8 degrees in my area.) This is because of the RADIATION heat loss of the fig leaves. The rate of heat loss of those leaves is a function of the air's humidity level. At higher humidity levels often frost will form on those leaves. So, while the ambient AIR temperature might only be 35 degrees F......the actual LEAF temperature might well be 31 to 32 degrees F. That temperature could affect tender new growth. In my area it is not uncommon for us to see frost form whenever the ambient air temperature is at 40 degrees F or below. This means that the actual leaf temperature reached 32 degrees F or below which froze the dew that condensed on the leaves as the dew point of the humid air was reached during the night. Late Spring frosts can kill fig trees in South Louisiana......especially if the outside air temperature has been cycling through several periods of warmth and cold. Yes, in my area, damaging frosts can form on fig leaves with ambient temperature as high as 40 degrees!! Ask me how I know and what I fear most at this time of year. Potential plant damage is really about leaf temperature and that is a bit harder to measure.] Dan...See MoreFreezing Nights In The Forecast
Comments (5)Kathi, Some of the others here who winter sow could answer your question about winter sowing better than I could. I hardly ever winter sow. However, if your containers have been out for several weeks, the seeds/seedlings in them should be acclimated to the cold weather and I would think they'd be fine. One of the advantages of winter sowing is that the seeds/seedlings are exposed to the cold soil and cold air conditions (although somewhat sheltered in their covered containers) so they are cold hard up to a point. If you're worried about them and if your next couple of nights are going to be extremely cold, you could throw a blanket or sheet over them at night, but it probably isn't necessary. Gamebird, It is up to you but I think they would be fine if you planted them now. They ought to be able to take the cold, especially if you have soaked them in a cup of water for an hour or two and the roots are well-hydrated. (Well-hydrated roots tolerate cold better than very dry roots.) What I would do if I were you would be: If you already have them in a cup of water to rehydrate the roots, go ahead and plant them. They should be fine. If your overnight low is going lower than 20 degrees, either mulch them really well or throw a sheet or blanket over them at night. If they are still dry and you haven't planted them, store them in a cool, dry location and plant them as soon as this cold spell passes. Covering them up at night is your choice. I don't cover mine up, but I do mulch them with an inch of mulch as soon as I plant them. If they're in the cup of water soaking and you can't plant them today, remove them from the cup. Set the onion plants on a pad of newspaper or paper towel so they can dry out a bit. You don't want for their roots to rot by sitting in water too long and you don't want to wrap them up in plastic or anything that will hold in too much moisture and cause them to start growing a green, fuzzy mold. Dawn...See MoreWindowpane pattern floor with tile & wood??
Comments (0)I'm new to GW & looking for product & installation advice on materials and "how-to" for creating a floor like this for a "greatroom" (roughly 37' x 15'). The windowpane would be of wood planks forming a square (maybe 18" x 18"?) where the tile would lay. The environment is on a raised floor (new construction) in low-humidity, no frost, SoCA. Thanks to all! (I feel like I've found new dear friends!)...See MoreJane Hove
3 months agomillworkman
3 months agoJane Hove
3 months agoJane Hove
3 months agoHU-227031627
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Jane HoveOriginal Author