I hope you're right, Mare! When I was trying to figure it out the other day, I was hoping to have both publicalyx and lacunasa, because I know the vine has to be a carnosa....so I was hoping for a selection of blooms. And both of those particular hoyas are gorgeous. Ok, so I guess this will be my "experiment." I've just decided to keep all of the leaves for at least 3 years and if nothing happens by then I decide there's no hope. I figure by then the roots will have more than filled up each one of the cups and that there will be only one way to go, and that's up...so if they don't sprout by then I'll give up. I'll keep posting updates to that webshots page for anyone who's interested... Hopefully I'll be able to keep track of what's going on with the roots through the cups...they're slightly opaque. We'll see who was right, start hedging your bets! Maria

It does sound like the soil does not have a chance to become fully saturated again. I would never try to water a hanging plant in place because I put at least a gallon of water each time, and most of it runs out. Peat seems to be the primary culprit of hydrophobic soils, IME. And silicone moisture crystals, when present. If the idea of taking your plant to your shower/tub to water sounds like too much of a PITA, try giving it a reasonable drink, then repeating an hour later. Add water as slowly as possible. Maybe put a bucket under at first, then the towel. Think of a wet sponge that sheds water at first, then accepts much more. Then realize that if the soil hadn't really been getting moistened before but now is from an altered method and that you are able to much more fully saturate the soil, it will take longer to dry out. Monitoring how heavy a pot is is an excellent gauge of whether or not the soil has dried. But, understandably, not practical for all of them. I recommend it if possible/practical, whether watering in place or in shower/tub.

Also, to confirm...are you using soil? Calycina prefers a nice airy mix. I use 1/4 inch Orchiata bark, #3 perlite, and 1/4 inch LECA (expanded clay) balls, all equal ratios. In a pinch, a high quality fine grade orchid mix (no soil) from your local garden center will do. Soak ingredients overnight and rinse well. Rinse off as much of the old potting soil as you can from the root ball. While you are able to see the root ball and root stem, check for signs of rot (stringy, squishy, stinky, discolored/mottled roots, squishy, stinky, black or brown root stem). If all looks okay, pot up in the new mix. You may need to water more frequently, until the orchid mix has had time to "saturate" and hold water more readily. The overnight soaking prior to using helps a bit, but the mix still may dry out rather quickly until it adjusts.

Yea, I think she didn't come the last day or two because there were lots of ripe ones still on the plants when we got home. I picked them all just after I took these photos. All my in-ground plants still look great. Of course, those are indeterminates and far far away from these. Today I found what seems to be mold (I touched it and grey dust floated off) on the stem of one. I just don't get how in one week without my being here, they all suddenly came down with a disease. Unless my picker was not too careful about touching things. I've always been super ginger in touching and moving amongst the plants. I do have a cucumber on the deck that has some typical cucumber mold/fungal thing, so maybe it spread from that. I guess I should try to spray them? If I remove every leaf that has spots, I think they will be completely defoliated. Maybe I should just be done. :-(