What did you end up doing? If you are still deciding, I would advise against a 4 panel door for your 10 foot space. As another poster said, that will result in a lot of posts within a small area. The result will be less glass and a more crowded look. Once you factor in all the posts required for a 4 panel door, and the large section in the middle where the two closing panels meet, you will loose a lot of light and your opening will not actually be that much larger than a 3 panel door. I think 3 panels would work very well and, after allowing for the posts, will leave you with an opening that is around 3 foot wide. A 36" opening is very respectable - also, you will then only have one moving panel which equals less moving parts (see: things that may/will break some day) and only one screen door. A 4 panel door will generally be less weather resistant: two moving panels must join in the middle and try to create a seal with one another, which weakens the door's structure. this counts when a storm kicks up and you get a lot of wind driven rain. with a 3 panel door, each end of the moving panel will always close/seal against a FIXED panel. This is more stable and reliable. i'm not making this up - check the DP rating of a 3 panel door Vs. a 4 panel door for the same manufacturer. The 4 panel doors always have a lower rating. Another negative score against the 4 panel door is that you are forced to have the opening in the center of your room - which makes it difficult to furnish, as you must allow a passage way through the center of a room. Not an efficient use of space in many situations. 3 panels allow the flexibility to have the opening on the left, center, or right side. I'm not an authority on this... just my opinion :-) Good luck! Please let us know what you decided and if you are pleased with the result.

benjesbride I absolutely LOVE this idea! Is moving a waste line more of an issue than moving the plumbing lines? I've always hated that the toilet is right at the door and would like to add a partition wall between the would be new vanity and toilet location. There is a vent in the rear of the existing shower (from bottom to top of building) that is about 12" wide. It's goes all the way to the end of the foyer closet. That leaves us with about 72" of space along the foyer closet wall to add a toilet and vanity. I think the toilet requires 30" so a 42" double vanity (or two smaller single vanities). We cannot have washer/dryers in this complex (old 1950's plumbing). But I've always complained about no linen closet in the bathroom so that works too. I'd like to move the door to the foyer; however, that would require a split vanity due to the heating pipes in the middle of the room along the wall behind the existing door. No, we are not adding a bedroom. That may be a later addition though, years from now. An neighbor converted the rear of the living/dining area to an office/bedroom (photo below). I've tried to adjust the floor plan to add the vent/shaft in the rear of the shower. It may not be worth the time and expense to open up the foyer wall if we can't get a great layout.

I know what you saying ladies, it's always good to have an extra opening. I guess the way they looking at it if you awake, you can hear the smoke alarm and have enough time to escape simply put... If you sleeping you might not hear the alarm, and by the time you hear it and wake up, it could be too late, so each sleeping room must have an additional escape route or rescue entry point so the fireman can climb in and out wearing full gear. I can see in NY this being enforced more because most houses are attached and even single family homes are semi-attached or separated by the driveway... not to mention they make any hole in the wall habitable because they rent them for 1k a month... You see basements with a stove next to a bed and table and a clothes hanger and they get 1000- 1500 a month.

My door got trimmed a bit to fit and get rid of some dings so the hinge mortises got trimmed off. Procrastinator that I am, I never got around to putting the pull hardware on and just used the hole left from the knob. There was a recessed cup pull I had my eye on to use though. It would have completely taken care of my knob hole. It would depend on what type of knob and lock set was on your door. One edge on each door will probably never be seen anyway once the trim is on.