Yes, road salt can be an issue. If you are in a place that is down wind, and the winds are strong, white pine foliage is more sensitive to browning from this kind of spray/drift than Norway spruce. I don't know how white spruce reacts. As for the salt getting into the soil--I don't really have a lot of information about the relative sensitivity of various kinds of trees. If there is a lot of drainage of salt laden water off the road into the area where the tree roots would be, you should try to create a ditch that will divert the water away. But I know of one area where there are a number of beautiful NS growing where I would think the salt runoff would be considerable, but the trees are completely unaffected. But how trees tolerate salt runoff will depend on the kind of soil and other conditions. As for the appearance of white spruce--you should try to identify those growing in your area and see how they look. Of course all soils in any area are not the same, so what you see in one area may not be what you will get in yours. At my timberland in western MD in the mountains (Z5) white spruce can be nice trees. They have a more grayish or whitish cast to their foliage than the typical NS. But a healthy white spruce does not usually have "sparse" foliage. but that may be the case in your area. But for my puropses, I would have white spruce only for some variety only after I have all the NS and maybe some other spruces, I want. A white spruce does not have the attractive weeping tendency in their branchlets, and although the color of their foliage can be nice, I prefer the more rich and dark green of NS. It is perhaps a little strange, but NS will outperform native spruces in all of the northeast quadrant of North America, and has better disease resistance also. It is a very hardy, durable, and adaptable tree. Quite wonderful, really. The only concern is to get trees that are well adapted to your local climate--NS grows across a wide range of Europe including a wide range of climates. The best source for trees in your area may well be trees grown from the seed from healthy trees in your own area. I have found that with some persistant inquiries, it is usually possible to track down the seed source for trees offered. --Spruce

A couple things stand out. Yellowing occurs with too much water-(retention). When planting the tree - no more than 1/3 organic matter should be used unless your soil is beyond horrific. You should check for spider mites - hold a piece of white paper under the yellowing foliage and bang it onto the paper and look for tiny bugs crawling about. I have a hunch it's water related, however. When a hole is dug and the backfill used is compost a bathtub effect is created. Additionally, long term if the roots were to take a liking to different organic matter apart from your native soil.. they will wind and wind themselves in the "better" media and won't grow into native soil, ultimately causing death. It seems (at least to me) that you used full compost when re-planting. That's not a good situation. .05 .05 .05 seems to be the NPK numbers; Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium, which don't have any effect. It's the amount of composted manure used during planting. Dax

You want the best of both worlds built into one conifer. That is not possible with the two you have chosen. Picea a. 'Pendula' has a wondering growing habit. It will grow vertical on the stake as long as on the stake. When it reaches a height you can no longer stake it then the central leader will begin to wonder. It will need more room horizontally to grow then "Glauca Pendula'. The only favorable thing it has going for it is the dark green color you like. On the other hand Picea glauca 'Pendula' will grow straight as an arrow without the stake. It will not wonder and stay very narrow in growing width. A much more formal looking conifer then . Growing height is similar with 'Reflexa' the stronger.. Actually I have two of each growing in different areas of my garden. I would not grow them together. The look would not be appealing with the mismatched growing habit. I have enclosed two photos of 'Reflexa'. 'Pendula' in the nursery trade. This one on the stake only 2 years then left to free range. This one was staked for 10 years but now off the stake. The main leader is now some what unstable and reverting back to its wandering growing habit. This photo is two years old and does not reveal this. And of course Picea glauca 'Pendula'. A true champion growing in any garden. I hope I didn't totally confuse you in your decision making. Both are great focal point conifers. If you decide to mix and match go for it. You are the one who needs to be happy. Dave

"macckia - isn't that basically what the "sunset" zones are? Do they do sunset zones for the whole country or just the western US?" Lane, I know nothing about "Sunset zones," other than what I've heard mentioned on GW. I generally don't have to concern myself with a plants tolerance of heat & humidity. ;) I just looked through several nursery tags from 2017-2019 purchases, and most list a lower (cold) and upper (heat) zone where they're recommended. Some (Proven Winners and Monrovia) list USDA with the zone range, implying both upper and lower limits are USDA-based. Others (Bizon and Carlton) simply list the zone range without reference to USDA. Iseli's tag lists only the lower (i.e. cold hardiness) zone.