Then I would say you have the two PERFECT floors for your situation. Tile in the "wet" areas and carpets in the rest. Tile doesn't really care about humidity control. Nor does carpet. To get a rigid floor in here (laminate, cork, hardwood, engineered hardwood, vinyl, etc) you might find the lack of humidity is going to be the defining factor. Any floor you put in there will lose warranty the first day of install. If you are OK with that, then go for it... I would personally install a hardwood (engineered in a narrow plank would be better, but it will not rid you of the problems of movement) in the "shoulder season". That means spring or fall. I used to live in the Okanagan Valley in BC (Canada) just north of WA state (Omak WA). The high desert = same concept. The summers have humidity around 15% until a storm rolled in = 90% humidity. And then it would drop again with forest fire season. And winter was then crisp and dry. Pellet stoves will dry out the air nice and fast. So the 20% humidity outside will drop even lower as soon as the stove is fired up. For any rigid floor (other than tile) these humidity levels are far too low. They will shrink and gap over the years...the gaps getting wider and wider as the floor ages. So long as you are OK with this and will love the wood for what it is, then go for it. But buyer beware of your home's limitations. And let me tell you it gets HOT in summer! My friends and family live through 40 C (104 F) summers every year. This is climate change at it's best. Thirty years ago, the hottest summers would be 38 C (100 F) but that would only be every few years. The average summer = 35 C (95 F). Those cathedral ceilings will help, but they won't get rid of all the heat. If your sleeping quarters are "upstairs" you will want to find a way to get the heat out. Just a little FYI from someone who has lived in a similar climate.

I wish that I was able to show you pictures of a finished ceiling, but we have yet to be successful with contractors after their initial visit. One of the issues with living Up North. The size of the skylight is no longer available, which we learned after waiting months for a contractor to "get back to us." We even called the Velux manufacturer for suggestions, but the closest certified installation person was three hours away - they won't come this far. We decided the next step is to remove the skylights and are currently waiting for bids. The thought process is to remove the wainscotting in the loft and use the lumber to repair the holes in the ceiling after removing the skylights. Hopefully, the wood tones will be compatible, and we will not have to paint the ceiling. Plan B would be to replace the entire ceiling with new wood. The roof will need new shingles to avoid a patchwork look. I will post if there is good news to share! Good luck. I am interested in hearing if any of you have had success.

My friend painted the interior of her rental cabin that very same green and with the low ceilings it feels very oppressive to me. I've painted paneling that dark green, but ceilings were 10'. Paneling was wood, so prep was to clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate,) rinse, let dry, lightly sand, tack off sanding dust, prime with 2 coats of KILZ, Zinzer or other primer, and then paint with 2 coats of your color. As a vacation property manager for the past 16 years, I can tell you the majority of guests will presume that descendants of the original 70's cooties are living in that rug unless you can prove that it is a new installation. Guests might not hate the faux paneling, but cleanliness issues can kill your rental. The ceiling and floor are your biggest dilemmas. If you decide you want to promote the 70's feeling, you'll need to carry through in the furnishings, etc. Potential galore, but not an easy decision.

All Alabaster trim looks great with Alabaster walls, but potentially can become a real headache down the line if you are likely to fancy whiter, more neutral wall colours. For the trim then is more colourful, less neutral than the walls which may limit some choices.(not a problem if more neutral whites are unlikely) FOR ceilings suggest either Alabaster or Delicate White or Extra White. Delicate White or Extra White & Alabaster have enough difference in Chroma (colorfulness) that the walls would not appear dingy by comparison. Which option you choose depends upon how much contrast you enjoy between wall and trim. Even Alabaster will offer subtle contrast when painted in a different sheen on the trim, the other suggestions will show a stronger contrast and feel more crisp. Ceilings painted the same colour as the walls can often look a little darker and more greyed by comparison. actual Ceiling paint can appear very stark in some lighting.