My box gutters had metal lining originally, but when I had a new roof put on fifteen years ago, the roofer relined them with a rubber material--you might find that the new ice and water shield stuff works just as well. My neighbor's house had her box gutters removed, and you can clearly see that the roof overhang was reduced by at least half to 2/3...and I'm sure her foundation is likely wetter than mine. I would not tear off the sunroom, since it is original and would make a nice greenhouse--just that balcony conversion on top...all the way down to the original soffits and fascia. And do NOT let your roofer remove your remaining downspouts, you will not be able to replicate them with any modern materials. To reconnect the gutters to the conductor boxes (those funnel-looking things) you just need to run piping to it from the old outlet so that it empties into the conductor box--those were often used by more than one outlet from the gutter, which is why they are so wide. My house has galvanized round sort of fluted downspouts, which I could luckily still find when I had to replace a leaky section, but my hardware store had to sell me four pieces as it couldn't be ordered singly.

My first thought was DUH, why didn't I think of that, then I went out and looked. There is a 2x4 nailer supporting the soffit which runs parallel to the top plate a few inches down. This nailer and some other blocking are in the way preventing a good angle for upward drilling, and I need a large hole for multiple romex. I could cut out a section of blocking pry it off and put it up later, but that would be a PITA. If the over the top and back in the side method described in my original post is compliant, I will go with that as it would be MUCH easier. Anybody know if that would pass? Our inspectors are impossible to get in touch with. I call the office and just MAYBE someone returns the call within a week or so. And these southern gentlemen can't fathom a woman doing electrical work and actually ask to talk to my husband, who hasn't a clue about such things. I'm trying to get everything up to code and then I will apply for retroactive permit for previous work.

We have a rainy day here so I've been playing....beginning to think maybe less IS more: I moved the other two prints and put them on the walls beside the FP. I am warming up to this now; maybe I was used to having four prints, and now that they are still in the room, it maintains the continuity I was used to. And......back to the chairs; a pair of these PB chairs has been hiding in the recesses of our CL: Pottery Barn Calais chair in leather They are almost brand new so not exactly a fire sale price; they are asking $500 for the pair. I think that's a little high, but assuming the price was right, do you think they would finish things off well? Or should I leave well enough alone? I'd purchase them only if they are more comfortable than what I have, and I won't know that until I see them. I can't test the link until I post, but in case it doesn't show the right one, the CL chairs are brown leather with espresso stain legs. I still really like the sconces but wonder if this is just as nice in some ways. I am now looking at my FP and wondering if the sconces would look good on either side of my mirror! But, no worries, that will have to wait for another day, lol!

Sorry, but posts alone won't make your home less linear. Looking at your mockup makes me think, "I wonder what he's building?" The first problem I see is not the length of your home. It's the tiny front stoop. Replace the steps with a deck at least wide enough to cover the existing sidewalk, then attach steps from the landing down to the walkway. Over this you can add a pergola. This will break up the length of your home with real depth. Below is a basic layout for adding a deck with a pergola over it. And, here is a photo of one homeowner's Pergola Addition.