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Design Dilemma Fireplaces DIY

looking for advice on how to install thin brick on the angled corners

5 months ago

Installing thin brick on our fireplace. Fireplace has odd angles - I measured 50 degrees. Wondering how to go about placing that brick?

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Comments (7)

Lyn Nielson
5 months ago
last modified: 5 months ago
what are you using to cut the brick?

a tile saw?

Have you decide on the layout/format?

If using a wet saw I believe you can master this. I would not mitre the corner, but overlap.

I personally would make certain the front flat is extended a bit so the end of the side pieces blend/don't show BUT the mortar seam lines up... so your eye travels around the corner.

Looks do able, good luck! Take your time.
Erica H
Original Author
5 months ago
A wet saw to cut the brick. I wanted to install it horizontally.
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Thanks for the detail blubird. Our contractor and I went to look at the window measurements more closely. If we do a drywall corner overlapped into the window with a soapstone sill (this chunky sill has become the choice because we need to hide some plugmold under the window for outlets) this gives us 23.75" of wall, then 1.5 inches of drywall that extends into the interior part of the window leaving just a narrow sliver of vinyl before the glass. FYI: our other window is a slimline picture window so has much narrower window 'parts' before the glass -- doing this will make them match slightly more (the large side slider window will still have more vinyl between drywall and glass because of the sash and stile parts around the glass). Then we could do a corner cab that is, say, 23" inches. This will leave 2.25" of "wall" before the window (.75 inches over wall framing and 1.5 over drywall extending into the window frame. From your and pudgybaby's photos, this should be a workable cabinet. It won't look as good as runs that continue straight like both of yours do, of course. Pros: - counter left of the sink has more head room since wall cabs aren't as deep - symmetric wall around window - cabs to the right of the sink can expand closer to window giving more storage there - front edge of corner cab shelf is more accessible than straight run to wall - clean look Cons: - give up depth in storage space along that whole cabinet run - corner cab looks odd to some because it doesn't continue straight after 90 degree turn. - side wall cabs are deeper than front wall -- not really a major con, I don't think folks will notice, honestly. - cabinets come awfully close to overlapping into actual window space (though it won't appear so with drywall padding into window). - but staggered cabs are kinda cool Window trim plan here (for future searchers or any interested -- I know how much others' detail has helped me):
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Edit away Lavendar_Lass...that's what the layouts are for! :-) You're spot on about protecting the Prep & Cooking Zones - the last thing you need is a crowd of people traipsing through those work areas! Beach rentals often have a crowd staying there - so accept that and plan for it. While those zones are protected, others can help (or kibitz) from the two sides of the island not in the main work area. Click on the picture to see it bigger. Zone map: Click on the picture to see it bigger. Hmmm....you can't read the labels - especially the text at the bottom left. Here it is: If you can "steal" space from the LR and you don't mind losing the chair space (in the LR), consider a raised pony wall b/w the kitchen and LR with a counter that's 12" deeper than the pony wall for bar-height (42" tall) seating on the LR side. If you don't want to lose the chair, then just have a raised pony wall with a shallow counter to act as a "pass through" to the LR for snacks, etc. It will give you space for an outlet on the wall and hide any snack "mess" or part of a coffeemaker from the LR. The pony wall won't interfere with the view/light. (Nor will the seats at the counter in the LR.)
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BeverlyFLADeziner
5 months ago
last modified: 5 months ago
I don't think you want a cut edge on a thin brick or even ceramic tile exposed at the obtuse corner.
Erica H
Original Author
5 months ago
Ahhh, okay. What would you recommend doing? I would be open to doing other layouts.
kelli_ga
5 months ago
last modified: 5 months ago
There are ways to color the mortar if you need it to blend with the brick color.

On my brick fireplace, they used a full 3D brick corner, but it’s a 90 degree angle. I think that is what you want to emulate. (I am not a mason.)

Is your brick 1/2” thick? Maybe bevel the side bricks so the thin side is fully exposed on the front. Then you can use the side bricks to form the edges on the front. You could have a mortar joint going the full length of the sides, bordered by a column of thin brick edges that would be maybe 3/4” wide with the beveled edge. The vulnerable side of the bevel would be protected by mortar. (Unless I figured this out wrong.)

I suppose you could consider alternating the bevel between the front and side bricks. You might have to make some kind of model of that first to see if it is practical and aesthetically reasonable.

Some stacked stone systems have corner pieces, but probably just for 90 degree corners.

You can see on my outside steps that, although the builder’s mason started with a full brick, the corner was not important enough to get a clean cut. This happened on one side of all 3 steps, so it may have been a time constraint.

Another option is to put wood on the sides. Or fill the sides to the wall, and maybe extrude with trim when you get to the wall. I don’t know how that would look. You’d want to find an example pic before doing that, I think.
T T
5 months ago
Consider a dry stack stone as an alternative in order to have mitered corners and no gaps.
Erica H
Original Author
5 months ago
I’m currently in the process of picking out the brick I want. The brick I’m considering is thin though. It’s 5/8 inch thick. Thank you for the suggestions!

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