Anita, I think the set you like is beautiful. However, consider this, legs like that table has will not allow for extra chairs. If the same table was a pedestal table you could get 2 chairs down each side. I had a Wicker table with a 48" glass top before this table and I had six chairs. I now have a 46" octagon table with 4 big chairs and two smaller chairs with low backs. Don't let those small chairs deceive you, they are full size chairs the seats are as high as the ladder back chairs, just the back is smaller. I can get chairs 6 around this table and have squeezed 8 around it in a pinch. I think 4 x 3 would work well, but like I suggested watch the table legs, they can hinder the amount of chairs you can use. I also had a bench at one time (inside the bay window) we were a family of 5 when our kids were growing up, so we had 3 chairs and a bench. This nook measures 9 foot 1" wide from the counter (with the bananas on it) to the end of the wall. . .The bay window is 8Ft wide. I took this tonight after I measured... from the center of the bay window to the end of the first glass pane on the french door the measurement is 8 ft. Also notice that the chairs are not huge and they fit under the table well. ( they can go in even further than the photo shows) This allows more walking around room when the table is not in use. I am a very visual person and use a lot of visual aids when doing or building furniture. I suggest you take your current table and add a faux top with wood, or cardboard or anything that would mock up the size table you want in the room, add the chairs and see what it looks like. Also consider a 42" round table (pedestal) with a leaf. It would give you a lot more room for everyday use for 4 people and when the grandparents come put in the leaf. We made this table 48" and when it was all done and we put the chairs around it I saw that if it was a tad smaller the chairs would fit under neath better so we cut it down to 46". Every little bit helps in a small area. Hope this helps. joann

30" wide door 21" deep vanity (more storage) No partition/privacy wall needed for toilet. Toilet wall space should be 30" minimum to 36". With deeper 21" vanity, the toilet will be pretty well hidden without the need for a partition. Put all light switches at door near the vanity (except closet light)...that way you can turn them all off or on at once when you enter or leave. With a 11'-6" wide bathroom, I would go 36" minimum depth for your shower...32" is like a standard tub depth and will feel narrow with glass enclosure. 11'-6" = 138" 36" shower + 4" dam = 40" 30-36" toilet That leaves 62-68" for a vanity/storage. Since it's a master bathroom, I would consider doing double sinks in a standard 60" vanity. Forgo the tower storage. Use medicine cabinets above sinks.

cpartist give excellent suggestions for how to deal with 10 foot tall kitchens, keeping the ambiance Craftsman and attractive. I will note I find 9 foot tall ceilings plenty fine for me, but go with feels comfortable to you. Although I do have a cathedral ceiling in the public part of the house.... (No, my house is not Craftsman). As someone else noted, you'll have to change your door heights and other aspects of your home to go with the increase in ceiling height - and that's not going to be cheap. Even at six foot one, I don't feel cramped in homes that have 8 foot ceilings - I was just in one (probably built in the 60s or 70s) this past Sunday (after months of not being to get out and visit folk very often at all). It was fine. But 9 doesn't affect pricing as much as 10 feet would. Please don't do without upper cabinets. You'll hurt resale, as not everyone is going to want to stop everything and remodel as soon as they move in. Even though I mostly have drawers, the lowest one is always a pain to access anyway..

Sorry I have been super busy the last few days, so I am just getting back to this thread. Like I said, I did like your original plan. I was just a bit concerned it might be annoying to have people always crossing through your work zone to get to the fridge. By flipping your plan, I then had to move the DW so it wasn’t across the isle from the range. It did break a kitchen rule of thumb putting it under the main prep counter. Sometimes in smaller kitchens you make more compromises. I figured in that case if a helper wanted to unload/load the dw at the same time as someone was prepping/cooking, you still had the left side of the sink and/or next to the range. I am right with you on moving the fridge to the other side. In fact, that was the first thing I noticed in you current kitchen was the big fridge blocking light and breaking up that wall. I totally understand your point of a full depth pantry and fridge on the end where I put them will make the entry not as open. I hoped a counter depth would be ok, but now I know that is not an option for you. Plus even with CD, it does still have the blocking effect. So out of your latest plans, I still like the pantry on the end over the small counter with an upper. I looked up your kitchenaid side by side fridge specs, and if I am looking at the correct model, the fridge side door needs 14 5/8” to fully open. Do you need it to be fully open to remove the crisper bins or shelves? Your kitchen designer should figure all this out for you. I think you need a 3” spacer between the wall and the 12” pantry for it’s door to fully open anyways, so that gives you the 15” for the fridge. I love your idea of the upper cabinets with the little shelf underneath. I wanted to do that same look in my kitchen. You could maybe do a rain glass or other obscured glass doors on the uppers to the right of the window so it keeps the most light, airy, open feel. You could do clear, but it is kind of nice not to have to worry as much about having things perfectly organized inside. I wish I had a better idea for more space for the dining table. I believe you said the mudroom is out that side door. Does it go behind the wall where you have the table? Could you bump back into that wall about 15” to add a space for built in bench with head room? Sort of like a window seat or where it is cantilevered so you would still be able to have storage underneath the seat part on the mudroom side? I am sorry if I am not explaining that right. My husband of almost 30 years is a GC and you would think I would know a little about building by now! 🤪