This whole kitchen remodel/fix is getting more and more depressing
Kathsgrdn
6 months ago
last modified: 6 months ago
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Gash in kitchen floor during remodel: how to fix?
Comments (12)Do not replace the board...chances are it will not match. If you can't find someone to work with shellac sticks, then there is another way to disguise the damage. Hardwood flooring people (I being just one) use a 3M Epoxy to repair hardwood and to fill knot holes, splits and other things that need filling or repair. I have heard mention of colored epoxies, but I have never used those. They might work for you...the stuff would stick permanently and you could paint in the missing wood grain with most any media (pencil, marker, paint). I have done that with just the clear epoxy and got acceptable results. If you started with a colored epoxy that is a close match to the background color of the wood, then painted in the missing wood grain, that could work as well. Hint: when you work with epoxy, you have to think of the repair site as a surgeon would a patient in an operating room. You want to protect the surrounding area to prevent the epoxy from winding up where you don't want it and be sure that you have denatured alcohol to wipe up any that might get where not intended....See MoreNeed straight talk from more experienced remodelers
Comments (8)22" deep cabs are very common here in pre-WWII homes out here (SF Bay Area). It was standard to build the cabs on-site - redwood in the '20's, giving way to plywood by the '40's. Frankly, many old cabs cannot be taken out intact. You'll have to check the construction, or have a carpenter-savvy friend take a look. Demolition is something you can handle yourself with friends. You will save yourself a lot of money doing it. Wear proper protective equipment (gloves and eye protection, lots of tarps (canvas is expensive but less slippery than plastic), and hang plastic in the doorways or you'll really regret the dust factor. Cover all exposed ductwork both in the room and nearby. Do NOT try to take out soffits or walls without somebody expert to be sure you are not whacking a sledgehammer through ductwork, plumbing or electrical. If you wish to keep your old cabs - don't do this unless they are: 1) in really good shape otherwise, and 2) bumping out to the standard 24" base cabs will cause you layout difficulty (it would have done this to my MIL's kitchen, which is why we never remodeled it). For counters, there are quite a few options. One is the resin pour-over types done by various specialty companies, like Granite Transformations and its ilk. It's a little plastic-y and glossy to me - I'm a matte Swanstone surface kind of person - but I've seen it done in a friend's older home and it's quick and simple. You can also tile a countertop - whether porcelain or granite tile, it's relatively easy and if you take the time to do it right, even amateurs can do a pro-look job. Cutting a pre-formed laminate countertop to fit, then tiling a backsplash, is also within reason provided you have, can rent, or have a friend with the proper power tools. Laminate can be ordered in sheets as well, so you can lay it atop plywood counters yourself if you want a wider choice of colors/patterns. Do a wood edging and poly it well. You can edge it in solid surfacing (like Corian) but it's pretty costly. Granite, soapstone, metal (such as stainless steel) and concrete are fabricated to order - in fact, concrete you can do yourself although I don't care for it, can't stand the etching and maintenance involved - so a narrow depth should not be a big problem. However, don't go to HDepot or a big box store. Go directly to a stone or concrete fabricator, get references, and check them. Install is critical and you don't want to be penny-wise and pound-foolish in this area. In reading your post, I can't quite tell if you want to update your kitchen WITH metal cabs or just update your kitchen when it already HAS metal cabs, by painting them. The metal cabs are easy to take out and definitely have resale value, so do the ecology a favor and find someone who wants to recycle them for a retro look. Nobody can tell you what this will cost you, in the end. Labor is the big issue and if you are willing to spend the time to DIY in certain areas, you can save a lot of money. But if you want to minimize the time you can't use your kitchen, then whether it's a small remodel or large remodel, you will need to break out the checkbook. Just remember, a "small job" to a contractor is anything under $10K, and a "short time" is usually anything under six months to a year!...See MorePlease help me get more sunlight into my kitchen
Comments (11)what you need is a bank of windows where your upper cabinets are, to the left of your window. up for a project? remove everything from those uppers, see if you can find another place for those items. then add 2 or 3 more windows along that side. it will be magnificent. you dont even currently have a backsplash to have to deal with! if you cant remove that storage, than double your current window by enlarging over the dishwasher as well. you'd get about 2x as much light as you do now, and a lot of breeze in the summer....See MoreFrom kitchen remodel to whole downstairs remodel
Comments (15)OK. How about something like this. The island seating would be on the DR side out of any work areas. I could also put a microwave in the island. Not sure yet about the wall support so for now there is nothing but I assume between the kitchen designer and architect (engineer?) they will tell me what I should do to make sure my house does not fall down. I guess I would prefer to NOT to have columns but I am guessing that would be a lot more expensive. Not sure what and how to layout cabs in the island. This is what I came up with so far. The micro could be in the cab facing the dishwasher wall. I could put fake fronts on the cab on the LR side on the left. On the cabinet side facing sink I would put long handle to hang towels as I hate having them on the stove handle now. Thank you....See MoreKathsgrdn
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