Better idea: I've been jotting "blueprints" at work all morning (yeah, I'm supposed to be working!) and thought that instead of vinyl windows, why not just build a wood frame and then build frames in which to insert sealed double pane insulated glass? The wood frames would insulate better and take slightly less space up than framing in vinyl windows would. Question: Are there companies where I can order custom-sized (and triangular) insulated, sealed double-paned glass ONLY on a consumer level?? Any idea whom? I think I can do this myself and save over what a contractor would charge or over ordering a kit.

cuestaroble, "Could you please provide a reference where any greenhouse, in the universe, has used "PVC instead of PE" as a greenhouse covering?" Quoting from this source, Greenhouse Covering Systems, on pages 8 and 9: "Modern plastics have become the only alternative to traditional glass for covering the greenhouse. Plastic glazings include rigid plastic structured panels, such as fiberglass reinforced polyester (FRP), acrylic (PMMA, polymethylmethacrylate), polycarbonate (PC), and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels. Thin film coverings include low density polyethylene (LDPE), polyvinylchloride (PVC), and ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer (EVA). These materials have been used in single, double and even triple layers to cover the greenhouse." PVC film is included in this listing of greenhouse film products. These Greenhouse Plans list PVC film as a covering option that is difficult to keep clean. Plasticulture in the Global Community - View of the Past and Future has some interesting information on the use of PVC use as greenhouse covers. The advantages and disadvantages of PVC on greenhouses are discussed in this greenhouse article. It seems that PVC as a greenhouse cover is much more popular in Asia than it is here in the US. MM

Many hardware stores or glass shops will do the repair. There are however dozens and dozens of different types of storm window latches, some of which are obsolete. Hopefully the hardware store would have the type you need, or one that is close enough to use. If you're going to do the work yourself, you'll have to risk breaking the glass, and there are two main ways that the latches are replaced. Some storm inserts are made in such a way that the latch easily slips out without taking apart the storm insert. Those types have a small hole in the bottom and part of the latch drops into the hole to interlock. By pressing the "button" that pokes through the hole it will pop out and is easily replaced. The other type (the most common) is made so that the only way to remove and replace the broken latch is to take apart the storm insert. It's easier than you would think. Here's how: The aluminum storm insert is normally held in place by 4 corner keys that are merely lightly crimped into place. Set the storm insert on a workbench. Take a chisel (I prefer about 1" wide), place it along the inside edge of the aluminum frame in the bottom corner (the chisel would be lightly touching the glass and is pressed against the aluminum, perpendicular to the glass) or into a weatherstrip groove near the corner and gently tap the chisel with a hammer to knock apart the aluminum extrusions in the corner. Once you have one corner pushed apart by about 1/8" you can start the other bottom corner. Continue to knock the bottom rail off, replace the broken latches, and then tap the rail back into place. Use a nail set to recrimp the corners. It seems as if you'd break the glass but that rarely happens (if done correctly). Again, you could have a hardware store do it (it actually only takes about 5 minutes) and let them worry about it. The following link shows about 50+ different types of latches: http://www.blainewindow.com/catalog/itemlist.cfm?catid=193&compid=1&pcatid=74

If you can remove mounting screws first. If the screws are stripped they can be easily sheered with a chisel or oscillating tool. If you can't remove them they will have to be forced out when collapsing the frame. Start on vertical sides in middle by inserting pry bar between frame and exterior casing. Put price of wood between pry bar and casing to prevent damage to casing and start to bend frame inwards. Once beyond limits of prybar pull it in further by hand to about half way. If strong enough you can do it all by hand or if to weak you'll have to use a clamp or say f it and just wreck the aluminum cladding.. Do the tops next and just keep working it by hand and prybar ad needed. If they are back caulked you'll want to cut this free first, I prefer cordless oscilatting tool for this. I'd first post pictures to if this method would work. If the blind stops cannot be covered properly all this will be for nothing .