My understanding is that Bath Stone is a Limestone mined in Bath England. One cheap and it wont hurt to try option. Take some baking soda and mix it with a small amount of water to make a thick paste (a poultice) and spread it thick on a test section on the level section of the ledge. I would just try a quarter size dot in the middle of a dark section. Candles have oil in them, as the poultice drys it will pull the oils out. Leave it alone for a day to ensure it is dry all the way. When it is fully dry, brush it off. Is the stone lighter in that spot than the surrounding area? If so, do it all over the stain, you might need to repeat a number of times and it might never be the same but it might help. Another option after trying that. Wet the stone next to the stain. Does that help to blend in the wax stain? If so, buy a bottle of mineral oil from the pharmacy and rub that into the stone. That is how you maintain stone kitchen counters.

Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc

my "edit" link is gone or i'm losing my mind. just wanted to add that my concern about trying to remove all the wax is that it'll be very difficult to see if i've missed any until i apply the stain and it doesn't stick.

Unfortunately, stains are not compatible other than the base thinner. Companies do each color differently, so there will be differences in the final shade. You might be able to get close, but the result may not be something you like. Matching the colors between two different company's product is possible, but it would take many attempts and lots of different colors to do so. There are two possible ways to get a good result, however. As always, testing is necessary. One, get close with another brand and then use a darker color for the final color. For example, using the color chart linked:Minwax color chart Original stain Golden Oak. Finish the dresser in Minwax Golden oak and if the colors do not match, use Early American as the final color. The other option is to use a gel stain. Gel stains are more paint than stain. I have never used a gel stain, so am making this option based solely on what I read. You would still need to finish the first application to even out the base color.