Oh, and I saw the suggestion of Mayonnaise by BM. I have that in my mudroom and looooove it (lots of natural light and vaulted ceiling). Mudroom BM Mayonnaise:

After much research, I got what I wanted at amazon.com. But you have to know what you want. The recommendation above for 3500 kelvins is a good one for the atmosphere I like and I even dialed it down to 3000 kelvins for several fixtures. These are soft white (which has a soft yellow but not the really yellow warm white). My contractor who changed my old cans with these LEDs said they only came in daylight but he was wrong. Daylight is too sterile in the comfy rooms at night...living room, dining room, bedroom and even my hallways. I switched everything out today and it's so much better. Now everything is in soft white but bright enough. I'm replacing all the warm bulbs (were too yellow) in the lamps to soft white. Replacing the dimming candelabras in my chandelier with soft (was warm). Brightens things up but doesn't look like an operating room. I'm leaving the bathrooms in daylight - they have no natural light - and have the lights on dimmers which is nice at night even though they cast no yellow at all. Besides the consideration for ambience and eyesight comfort more pleasing with soft white in my opinion, the daylight bulbs are kind of creepy at night. Every light shouldn't be a reading light brightness imho. I'd recommend a supplemental reading light that is different than your atmosphere, general lighting. It's not to be on the same time the other lights are on when entertaining for example. And finally, the paint colors I have look nice in the soft white - and better than if they were in the deeper yellow warm light....and better atmosphere/ambience compared to daylight or brighter bulbs.

Look at Collingwood by BM. It is in my north facing kitchen and we love it, but it is not super light, just light. It is considered an off-white gray but it is very warm. Here are photos with Collingwood walls and Urbane Bronze (SW) painted windows: :

Thank you @everdebz and @eam44 for the input. I did hire Kylie for a cabinet color consult and she did a good job (though I hadn't chosen a counter top at that point), I was more looking for a cabinet color that would be a "white" that would look good in a north facing room and this is from her consult - "SW Alabaster. This is a warm, creamy white. It will help to off-set the northern light coming in, without being as yellow as Dover White." She also suggested Westhighland White as a 2nd choice. SW 7566 but I feel I see a bit of pink...maybe I need my eyes checked. I do like Alabaster, but it seems a bit too warm for some of my counter top selections. What is the "nuance" of SW alabaster.... And does it contradict what Lori says about nuance below? From reading the chroma info from land of color expert @funcolors it seems I want "Colors with a nuance that is light and clear. Meaning choose paint colors that are clear but not vivid or bright", but how to pick one. Don't exactly understand how I figure out "nuance". Also, do I start with a paint color that will work in a northern exposure and then select a counter top to go with, or do I pick a counter top and then pick a cabinet color? I see so many counter tops that I like, yet I can't figure out how to pick the proper paint color that will work with the counter top AND the north exposure. And then to bring in a dark color for the island. Kylie suggested SW Cyberspace or SW Grizzle Gray 7068. I really like Grizzle Gray, but I am concerned it is too muddied and gray for the northern light. Will the gray stand out more? Say I chose something with green undertones (SW Urban bronze 7048) is the blue north light going to counteract to make these colors appear brown? or will the green tones be more prevalent. Bottom line I am still having a hard time figuring out what the natural light will do to the various paint colors. And because the house is under construction and my cabinet color choice needs to be made, I am not in a situation where I can wait until everything is in place.