Hi Glenda, Sounds like you've been really busy. I agree that you might as well go ahead and confess how many tomato plants you have because Jay and I already have confessed. (Jay, I found two more plants in a container I'd forgotten had tomatoes in it, so I think I'm up to 120....but I wasn't hiding them on purpose, I just forgot about them!) I'm already at the 'more tomatoes than we can eat fresh' stage, so have cranked up the dehydrator. Cabbage worms and loopers were the worst I've ever seen this year, but we got a good enough broccoli and cabbage harvest to satisfy me. With us, the late cold weather that stalled the broccoli and the early onset of heat probably hurt the harvest more than the cabbage worms did. We're still seeing lots of the white butterflies too, but also have lots of swallowtails, skippers, bordered patch, monarchs, etc. and quite a few white-lined sphinx moths. As Jay said about the onions, lots of folks are having a lot of trouble with them this year, and the reasons vary. Some of us had soil that stayed too wet at planting time and a lot of the plants didn't survive. For others the plants survived, but didn't thrive or enlarge as much as usual. For others, necks started weakening and falling over when the onions were still fairly small. For some, a lot of their onions bolted. The onion problems are just all over the place. With the dent corn, I see people space it as closely as maybe 6 to 9" or as far apart as 2 or 3'. I imagine you get a better yield with somewhat farther spacing (or at least slightly bigger ears), but it seems like most here plant it 9-12" apart so they must feel like they get a good enough yield from that spacing. With the peppers, I've had deer eat them down almost to the ground....leaves, stems, flowers, peppers and all....but not since we put up the taller deer fence. Sometimes rabbits nibble the ones I grow in containers outside the fenced garden. So, for me, those are the two big 'eaters' of pepper plants. Your results may vary. With all southern peas, my spacing varies depending on past experience with any given variety. With pinkeye purplehulls specifically, I space them about 6 to 8" apart most of the time, and have put them a foot part before. My general planting guideline is to space bush types about 4-5" apart and semi-vining types 6-8" apart. With vigorous vining types like Mandy/Big Red Ripper, 12-18" probably is too close but that's what I do, and I trellis them. How high is the trellis? With Big Red Ripper, it doesn't matter...it will climb much taller than any trellis you errect. There's several selections of pinkeye purplehulls out there, and some of them are a little more bushy and quicker to produce than others, but 6-8" is perfectly fine, or up to a foot apart if you don't want quite the usual tangled mess that southern peas can become. Last year, some of my pinkeye purplehulls went crazy and crossed a pathway and climbed tomato cages up to the top of the cages, and cascaded back down again. This year, the pinkeye purplehulls will not have any cages nearby to climb! For eggplants, I 'hid' mine this year by planting them in the middle of sprawling tomato plants 'Tumbling Tom Red' and 'Tumbling Tom Yellow'. For ages, it looked like the tomato plants, which were bred for hanging baskets so they spread out horizontally and cascade, were going to bury the eggplants under their foliage, but then the eggplants finally got tall enough to emerge above the tomato plants, and the flea beetles didn't seem to bother them. Maybe it was just luck, but I think I'll do it again next year and see if it works two years in a row. Otherwise, I'd cover young eggplant plants with floating row cover material, or sheer window curtains, until they're pretty-good sized and flowering and that will exclude the flea beetles. I just planted okra on the 4th of this month to fill the space left by recently-harvested broccoli, and it seems to be emerging pretty well so far with 2 of 4 varieties up already, but Paula had trouble with hers...it is emerging but it was kinda slow and she replanted once or twice. Our fruit is only slightly ahead of yours. Our blackberries are done, and the strawberries are producing well....we've been picking strawberries since late April and they keep making more. The plums are ripening slowly, which is nice because we can pick and eat a day's worth every day so we're not overwhelmed with too many all at once. The three plum trees have hundreds of plums per tree (and I bet I removed 20 plums for every one I left on the tree when I thinned) so at some point we'll have too many and I'll make plum jam. The peaches are coloring up and should be ripe enough to pick soon...ours are usually ripe right around Father's Day or even the week before. The tree is heavily loaded too, but I'll freeze and can a lot of them. We don't have pears or apples because of fire blight and cedar apple rust. I'd love to have both, but fought the diseases so much in Texas and decided I just wouldn't do it here. We need rain badly in our part of Oklahoma too, having had our last good rainfall in mid-May and temps in the upper 90s this week. I think slightly cooler weather is coming tomorrow, but hayfield and wheatfield fires are already happening here. This weekend, the same combine caught fire twice while harvesting wheat, but the operator managed to keep it from spreading to the wheatfield itself. The local firefighters have been busy with those kinds of fires and with lots of vehicle fires. It is a little early for those kinds of fires, but the heat has been so bad and the field are getting so dry. I've watered the veggie garden about once every 3 or 4 days but the containers have to be watered morning and evening. Our small pond near the veggie garden is dry, so the frogs have moved into the garden and I've put a pan of water there for them. The big pond is very low....I tried to take the dogs swimming in it a couple of weeks ago but they had to wade in it instead because it was so shallow. I haven't looked at it this week, and am afraid it will be dry or very close to it. My flower beds have been neglected like yours, Glenda, but I'll get busy on them after our granddaughter, who's visiting this week, goes home. There's never enough time, and it has been so hot that my time outside has been very restricted. I love hearing your updates so keep writing them! Dawn

Just to follow up, Kilim Beige on the walls with Alabaster trim/ceiling looks great in the new house! I love the colors with the dark walnut doors/cabinets and bronze fixtures. They just hooked up electrical so it looks nice with artificial light as well. Sometimes I regret not looking into SW Pavilion Beige, but I don't know why I do that to myself...what's done is done and I should be so relieved that Kilim Beige looks great! When they first painted I thought I saw peach undertones and I panicked. But I did not see that again. It is definitely warm, but I can't detect any real undertones. Flooring isn't in yet, so I'm curious to see how the color will change. patty_cakes, you wrote in a previous post above: "As for the color/colors, just a very pleasant, warm tan that has a beautiful candlelight hue in the evening. Good luck. ;o)" I thought of your comment when we saw the house for the first time last night with artificial light...kilim beige does have that beautiful candlelight hue in the evening! I will post pics soon. Thanks again to everyone, I appreciate your input and advice!

I'm not very good at landscaping, but I just wanted to warn you not to plant Queen or Washingtonia palms. Landscapers will try to sell you queen palms, but JUST SAY NO! First off, they are messy, dropping dead limbs and seeds everywhere, which come up all over the place and secondly, they grow so tall that you have to hire someone with a boom to trim them, and then they usually do it wrong. Washingtonias don't drop their leaves, and they just hang there like a dead brown skirt. Ugly. Coconut palms are pretty, but they're not very cold hardy, which is why you don't see many north of 10b. Plus, they drop coconuts everywhere and if you have anything growing under them, it gets crushed. Unfortunately, there isn't much in FL that doesn't take maintenance and isn't going to make some kind of mess. get too big or spread into areas where you don't want it. Choose carefully, and research before you put anything in. Make sure to make note of the mature size of the plant to make sure it won't outgrow the space. You said you like the Pampas grass, so I guess you know that once it gets large, you have to cut it back every year with a chainsaw. There are large native grasses that are much easier to care for, like Fakkahatchee grass. Just be sure to cut off the seed heads before it spreads all over your yard. I will suggest a Jatropha tree or bush (two different species). They are not messy and bloom all year. Their only problem is that they can die back in a freeze, but they come right back up from the roots and grow like mad.

The rolled-wing posture is more common to the Tortrix moths, so I looked through those first. http://mothphotographersgroup.msstate.edu/Plates.shtml ...but did not find anything satisfactory in the tortricids. Then I tried: https://www.insectidentification.org/insects-by-type-and-region.php?thisState=michigan&thisType=Butterfly%20or%20Moth ^scroll down to #277, that caught my eye. So your wild guess was closer: you were in the right Superfamily https://bugguide.net/node/view/25334/tree With such an obscure-patterned and variable moth, it could be one or more of these: https://bugguide.net/node/view/25314/tree ^ pyralid, genus Pococera ...of these, https://bugguide.net/node/view/808256/bgimage ^the Maple Webworm is by far the most submitted species https://bugguide.net/node/view/573784 ^but this can not be discounted. http://mothphotographersgroup.msstate.edu/species.php?hodges=5606 ^third overall of the moth images is very similar to yours.