Do thyme and lavender survive winter in zone 6a?
Henry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
9 months ago
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Henry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
9 months agoRelated Discussions
How do you know if you are Zone 6a or 6b?
Comments (16)redsox, I had to laugh, I just did the same thing trying to find out if I'm 6 a or b and all the maps were so small I couldn't read any of them. Really someone has to make one of these for people who don't have 20/20 vision. When I put my zip in the second link it said I was 5b and I know that's not right. I'm smack dab in the middle of that zone 6 chip on the southeastern side of MI. Besides I grow a lot of things that would not survive in zone 5 winters. I like Zack's idea. I do know that the back wall of my house is always way warmer than any other place in the yard....See MoreMoso survives zone 6a no leaf burn
Comments (3)Both the Anderson clone and regular Moso survived last winter with no damage. The Anderson has been hardy here, but the regular moso freezes back about 1 out of 2 winters. Anderso...See MoreNew with trade list (zone 6a)
Comments (12)I sent personal messages to you both, A O and Smugung Smungung. I've had no problems emailing mersiepoo for the past few days so I don't know why your messages aren't coming through. I'm going to email the admins just to be on the safe side because that's a little weird and maybe I need to reconfigure something with my account. Thanks a bunch!...See MoreWinter performance of David Austin roses in Zone 6a
Comments (96)@Ann Marie, I have a few climbers and ramblers on a trellis and my best advice is to make sure your rose is hardy for your climate by choosing ones that are atleast one or two hardiness zones below yours. That’s the best way to ensure cane survival through winter (right plant, right place). If the rose is near a wall that retains and reflect heat, then I do zone push and have had success with climbers my zone or one zone above. For example, I’m in zone 4b and I have no problems with New Dawn and James Galway surviving winter without protection on a northwest and southwest wall, respectively. As for training the rose, my approach is to tie the canes tight against the support so that it is secure and doesn’t whip around or rub. I do this in the late winter / early spring when the rose is dormant along with pruning so that I can see the rose’s framework. It also means that I’m working with only hardened canes (I never tie soft or semi-hard canes). I use simple garden twine and tie tight double knots. I don’t skimp and make sure the final rose frame work absolutely does not move. I tie the largest, most established canes to the support first, then the rest. I may even tie smaller canes to the bigger ones. Yes, it’s “crossing branches” but so long as they are tied tight and not rubbing, I find it’s totally fine. Key is no movement of any of those framework canes. I intentionally use twine because it blends in, is cheap, and will eventually degrade (since I do this all over again every winter/spring). If the rose cane is really old and has a tough bark and I know it’s not going to expand, then I tie into the support with black zip ties (gasp!). I’ll also mention that optimal blooms form on canes that are positioned between horizontal and 45 degrees. Here’s a pic of my William Baffin climber last year on a wooden trellis....See MoreHenry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
9 months agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
9 months agoHenry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
9 months agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
9 months agocallirhoe123
9 months agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
9 months agoHenry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
9 months agoHenry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
9 months agosah67 (zone 5b - NY)
9 months agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
9 months agowoodyoak
9 months agorosaprimula
9 months agomxk3 z5b_MI
9 months agoa2zmom_Z6_NJ
9 months agotheforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
8 months agoHenry Z6(OH Zone 6b)
8 months agorosaprimula
8 months agolast modified: 8 months ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)