Thanks so much everyone, I read zack lau's response and quick rushed out to Lowes to get some Bayer products, got three different kind, BA (Bayer Advance) grub killer, BA rose and Insect disease concentrate, and the BA Insect killer spray which the last two do say that they kill rose midges. I am glad to hear I don't have midge though, But I am well equipped for any insect that dares to show its ugly mug near my roses. Thanks zack, you put a fire under me to go and purchase this stuff which I know at one time or another I will need them, for I believe from one year to the next we have to deal with something, it goes along with growing roses, right? One of my neighbors asked me, "Why don't you grow something that is not so much trouble"? My response was, "But I do".

Literature examples of how complex fluazifop-p-butyl "science" actually is: The following quote is from the link below it: "While the findings support independent research, they contradict the purported herbicide characteristics by commercial sources grass selective, post-emergent, non-residual, rapid breakdown and active through foliar application only." http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6V5X-4VC743F-6&_user=10&_coverDate=04%2F30%2F2009&_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1343979062&_rerunOrigin=scholar.google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=04ca0a1795ac86555e182dcddd52018a ------------------------------------------------ Second example: Title: Mitotic changes in root meristems of Lens culinaris treated with fusilade (fluazifop-p-butyl). Authors: Aksoy, Ozlem; Ekici, Nuran; Dane, Feruzan. Authors affiliation: Department of Biology, Faculty of Science and Arts, Kocaeli University, Kocaeli, Turk. Published in: Asian Journal of Cell Biology, volume 3, pages 34-40, (2008). Abstract: "In this study the genotoxic effects of Fusilade (Fluozifop-p-butyl), a selective herbicide were investigated in the mitotic cell division in lentil (Lens culinaris Medik.) root tip cells. For this aim, different doses (0.25, 5, 1 and 1.5%) of Fusilade solns. were used. Root tips after having grown to a certain length were stained according to aceto orcein squash procedure and the no. of abnormal cells was counted in each phase of mitosis. The obtained results indicate that Fusilade had the ability to cause prodn. of a large no. of mitotic abnormalities. These abnormalities appeared in varying degrees depending on the dose. The types of abnormalities produced were laggards of the chromosomes, bridges, c-metaphase, stickiness, chromatin granulation and nucleus deformation. According to our findings we can say that Fusilade can produce neg. effects on mitotic divisions in lentil root tip cells." ---------------------------------------------- Third example: "The phytotoxicities of nine pesticides (paraquat, Xuazifop-p-butyl, haloxyfop, Xusilazole, cuproxat, cyazofamid, imidacloprid, chlorpyrifos, and abamectin) at practical dosages on photosynthesis were investigated in cucumber (Cucumis sativus L. cv. Jinyan No. 4) by gas exchange and chlorophyll Xuorescent measurements.". The conclusion section starts with: "As shown by declines in Pn after treatment (Table 2), all pesticides used in this experiment inhibited photosynthesis except for Xusiazole." The conclusion section ends with: "In conclusion, the data from this study demonstrated that pesticide application impairs the photosynthesis of cucumber seedlings. ........." http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6WP8-4JDMTPV-5&_user=10&_coverDate=09%2F30%2F2006&_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1344055715&_rerunOrigin=scholar.google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=9dad48a835781e02ab465b9579f8d331 -------------------------------------------- AND "microbial activity of a soil": http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/118602142/abstract

Ladylotus,, You can't possibly be having midge damage now. Midge damage occurs on the growing tips of the rose which look like they have been burned. For there to be midge damage the overwintered midge chrysalis must first turn into a midge fly which must then fly up to the growing tips where it lays eggs which must hatch into grubs which do the damage. The grubs drop off to the soil to renew the cycle which I believe can take only two weeks. I'm in Z6b and this doesn't happen until late May at the earliest. There is no other damage from midge that you could see from removing soil from around the rose which I assume was winter protection. As for granular products to kill the larvae in the soil, none of them say they are effective for midge as Diazinon did but I have controlled midge with several that I have used. These are sold as lawn insect and grub killers and there are many brands including Ortho, Seven and Spectracide. I can't personally guarentee any one as being better because I have used several and I have had no worse results than when I was using Diazinon. Just remember that you must put it down early and thoroughly and water it in if there is insufficient rain. This should do it for the season but I put it down again at least one more time. Henry

Hi! My husband and I have a linden tree on our property and in 2006, the beetles just decimated it. It was our main source of shade, so having it defoliated was awful. Anyway, I got some of the Bayer insecticide and applied it but I can't remember if I put it on in fall or spring). The beetles still got to the tree this summer, but not nearly as badly. It looked like the ends of the branches got nailed-all the newer growth. What was weird was we'd lived here for six years before this ever became a problem. And we have a small property, too, about.25 acre, plus there are about 50 rose bushes on the property. So now I am not sure if the Bayer helped or if the beetles just weren't as bad this year but I guess I'll try it again for the next growing season-but I am thinking that maybe I should wait until spring. The tree is fairly mature now-it's as high as our two story house, and about 15 feet across. So I wish you the best, Alexander3, and if anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it. (and my husband has treated the lawn with milky spore and nematodes, etc., and he keeps the rose bushes treated with something systemic-plus alot of manual control, i.e., knock 'em off the bushes into a coffee can, etc. Oh, and my dogs love to eat them!--so I knock the beetles out of the tree in the early morning, and the dogs run around under the tree munching away-it's rather disgusting)