Poor HVAC Ventilation In Bedroom
Noel Rios
10 months ago
Hi guys,
I own a 2k sq foot one floor house in Florida. I moved into the 2012 built home about five years ago.
I get excellent AC circulation throughout the house with the exception of one bedroom (Bedrooom #4).
This room is always noticeably warmer than the rest of the house. I do now know what is causing this.
Has anyone ever experienced this or offer any advise of what it might be?
I have include a snapshot of the layout of my home along with the location of the bedroom, water
heater and HVAC unit.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Comments (15)
HU-867564120
10 months agoRelated Discussions
3 HVAC options
Comments (5)If your Goodman condenser is 12 years old, we didn’t have the 13 seer until 2006, your Goodman condenser would’ve been new in 2001; 1992 to 2005 we had 10 to 12 seer units; 1986 to 1991 we had eight seer; 1982 to 1985 we had seven seer air conditioning condensers, and before 1980 we had six or less seer rated condensers. Some 12 seer condensers when using a thermostatic expansion valve metering device and time delay on the blower could get a 13 seer rating. What tonnage is the 12/13 seer Goodman condenser? How well did it perform and was it sized correctly? Before you do anything else you need to do a load Calc on your home; I put a link to the free load Calc below. I would print the instructions and practice doing the load Calc for a number of time until you think you have ballpark numbers. You could do the two floors on separate load Calc’s; the basement won’t affect the air-conditioning load to speak of, unless you use it as a living space I would leave it off of the Calc. On the coldest days you should be keeping a record of the burner on-time the number of minutes it runs to the next on-time; then divide the total complete cycle time into the run-time to get the percentage factor and then multiply that by the furnace BTU output. BTU output should be on the furnace tag or you may have to the owners manual or somewhere else. That tells you the actual BTUH load at those weather conditions; which must also be logged. It’s also a very good idea to check the furnace temperature rise; turn the room-stat way up, after the burner runs for around 10 minutes or more check the temperature of the nearest supply diffuser, then check the return air temperature; subtract the return-air temperature from the supply-air temperature and multiply that number by 1.08, then divide that number into the BTU output of the furnace which will give you the cubic feet per minute of airflow that will come in handy later for checking the air-conditioning BTU delivered performance. I'd buy a digital thermometer that reads in tens of a degree. There are a lot of ways you can check the delivered performance of your air-conditioning system, if it is performing well and it appears to be in good condition I doubt that I would replace the 12/13 seer Goodman condenser, unless the evaporator coil is rusted out. Before you check any performances, check to see if the evaporator coil is dirty you have to look underneath the coil, also check the squirrel cage blower wheel blades for lint buildup, everything has to be clean before you do any testing of the performance of the equipment. When you have new equipment installed do all the checks that I have listed and make sure that they do a 'delivered air-conditioning performance test' of the new system. Your major problem will be over-sizing of the air-conditioning and heating systems and not having adequately sized return-air filter areas to keep the velocity through the filters, when clean, below 300 FPM (feet per minute). You will need at least two large filter areas to begin to have enough filter area for even a three or 3.5 ton air conditioning system. If you want efficiency you have to design for it in every detail and do everything in a proper sequential order. Here is a link that might be useful: Free Online Whole House Loadcalc...See MoreHVAC replacement
Comments (4)My recommendation would be to replace the furnace and AC at the same time so you will have a matched system. A good time to do this would be in March - April. This is when manufacturer's rebates are available and contractors are not too busy. Stay away from the big box stores, department stores, and the gas company. Ideally you want a local HVAC company where you can speak with the owner. Do you have know the results of the Manual J calculation? This is the only way to know if you are sized correctly. You don't want oversized equipment. The furnace sizes from each contractor are inconsistent. I would be suspect of any contractor who would do this. I recommend a 95%+ efficiency furnace. If you have the funds a 2-stage variable speed model would be my choice. This would enable you to get an AC with a SEER rating of 15-16. You don't need any higher in NJ. The quote needs to have all model numbers of equipment. You should qualify for the NJ warmadvantage and cooladvantage rebates....See MoreNew construction design input requested; all elec HVAC
Comments (4)If the HP will be your only source of heating I would look at the Carrier Greenspeed over the Lennox. Avoid contractors that only sell one brand of equipment, maybe ask your builder for the contractor he/she uses. HVAC contractors that do builder work are typically much cheaper than the big hvac dealers who sell directly to customers. The prices for the highest efficiency lennox/trane/carrier equipment is likely within a few hundred dollars of each other...if you want a particular brand and the quote is so vastly different find another contractor. I would definitely spend the 650 for the additional zone. The ability to zone off that first floor bedroom will save you the $650 in a relatively short period of time and will help with comfort in the bedroom. HRV is probably a good idea in a new construction house that is very tightly insulated. An alternate would be to use bathroom fans that automatically turn on for a set period of time each day but you would lose efficiency as you would be exhausting conditioned air from the home...I have no idea what the payback time would be on the HRV....See More1 stage vs 2 stage HVAC
Comments (144)Ok glad you found that useful. I decided to see if I could find some proof of the same ole shenanigans... yep sure did. Heavy on marketing and gimmicks low on realism and truth. But who needs truth? Now does this mean I am bashing Trane or Am. Standard? Only to the point in which they think their product is better than something else. The marketing gimmicks. They have to do that to charge more. If they told you 'hey our products are good, but you will pay more over the life of the equipment' would the you still buy it? But Ray, why wouldn't you just shut up and sell it anyway? This comment right here: 'Hey, you sold me this equipment --- you said it was the 'best', what do you mean the indoor coils are leaking freon? What do you mean the compressor is making noise that will eventually lead to it's death? This equipment is still new... if it was the best why am I having all these problems? That's why. --- no HVAC equipment is immune to failure. none. So sorry, Trane / American Standard is just as good --- or as bad as anything else. It will cost more to repair it. Marketing gimmicks cost money. -------- But what should I do then? Focus on design. Things like zoning / how it is going to be done. What is the better way for the project to be done? Sizing of the equipment. Don't over size even if you are buying 2 speed equipment. (A half ton over size is fine. Nearly 2 tons over size? uh---- NO.) Things like how much equipment versus controls --- further from that lay out. Ease of future service, the ability to easily repair the equipment, replace when that time comes. Things to reduce maintenance problems and or expenses. These things are fleeting when trying to get the 'cheapest price' outside of what the equipment costs. Because design is the skill level attained by 'experience'. With that said, new construction is often times none of these things. It's more along the line of sell the system(s), hire the sub contractor to do it --- and that sub contractor makes more money by completing as many jobs as they can. More often than not new construction has little to do with great design. Because of that I would zone the new construction home with 'equipment' as opposed to controls especially because you have the room to do so (5k sq ft) If you want zoning, add it later with someone who has in depth knowledge that it's even feasible. Experience is gained over years, decades in the HVAC field. As noted previously I do not do new construction. I come after the builder is long gone... in some cases as little as 1 year after the house was built. I service the Katy, Texas area....See Moreklem1
10 months ago
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