"In my mind, you'll need at least 100A service to this subpanel. The reason is that it sounds fairly likely that the AC, the lift and the compressor will need to run at the same time. It might be possible to get away with 75A, but you're probably heading for a lot of nuisance trips. Not only will that require a visit to the main panel in the house, but you'll be left in the dark while removing that coil spring." That was my exact thought. It would be approximately 20' of cable to run out of the house, down the conduit, under the concrete breezeway, and back up inside of the cinderblock wall, where it will exit below the sub panel. Another issue I have, is where and how to put the grounding rods. Everything is concrete. The closest non-concrete area is 20' across the garage on the far side of the building. I guess I have to drill holes in the sidewalk/breezeway concrete and drop the spikes down. Not sure how to sink them though. Maybe a sledge on a ladder, or a picket pounder if I can find one. I'm trying to get a copy of the NEC from the library. Is there an easy "how-to" on doing a load calculation for the main box. Someone on another site suggested it. I did a google search and found an automated one. Also, my gang boxes have 1/2" punchouts. All my conduit is 3/4". I tried to get the gangable boxes with 3/4" punch outs and the depot doesn't carry them. Can I grind out one of the 1/2" punchouts to 3/4" or is there some code restriction on this. Last question is kind of stupid, but again, I appreciate the help.

If you're pulling a permit for this you will need to follow the code. It's pretty strict. For example, you need two dedicated circuits for your backsplash receptacles ( they call it the "small appliance" circuits.) I think your popcorn popper and cofee maker go on those. Your MW needs its own circuit. Depending on your city/town code, you may or may not need seperate circuits for the DW, disposal (in our town they can share.) The fridge cannot go on the small appliance circuit but doesn't need it's own circuit (ie it can go on your general lighting circuit). And then there are the rules about receptacle number and placement!!! I'd highly recommend getting a new book from the library or bookstore (or Home Depot) that outlines how to rewire a kitchen remodel, so you get the basics at least. Then you can make a diagram and take it to your code officer and make sure he approves before you start your work...

Plus it seems like there is no rhyme or reason as to how you put all those cans in. And I certainly wouldn't do 6" cans nowadays but instead 4" cans. I removed all your outdoor lights. What you have is lighting your house up like a Christmas tree. It's overkill, especially since you have flood lights. Here is what I'd do: I'd ditch the can in the front entry and instead put a sconce light on either side of the door. You don't need more than 3 floodlights. One flood on the corner of the house can have two lights with each one pointed in in a different direction. In the office all you need is the fan with a light on it. The rest of your lighting should be task lighting. In the family room, you need to center the fan and lights in the room. Depending on what the rest of the room looks like, instead of cans you might even consider flush mount lights. In the kitchen, your lights are best if they are on the edge of the counter so you don't cast a shadow as you work. Additionally you don't need a light in front of your cooktop because if you have an exhaust hood (and you absolutely should!) then the hood will have lights on it. Additionally, 3 pendants usually work better than 2 visually. No light is needed in front of the fridge since the fridge is lit inside. In the dining room all you need is a beautiful chandelier. If you want more lighting, add 2 sconces on one wall. In the hallways, instead of three more cans, much nicer would be 3 pendants, or 3 flush mounts or 3 semi flush mounts. Instead of lighting up the master bedroom, do the fan with a light and then add a sconce on either side of the bed or bedside lamps. Sconces over the vanity mirrors or on either side of the mirrors in the bathrooms work better than a pendant light. In the garage you don't need cans. You get a utility light or lights. The two bedrooms only need a fan with a light on it. You can add more light with lamps. On the patio, do two sconces and a fan with a light. Then on the back of the patio put a sconce.

First, I must say that it is difficult to read the plan because it is a small scale, but I am doing my best to be able to read it, so forgive me if I miss something. You do not have enough lights in your house. I don't see any lights in your living room, and the wall switch for your lamp in your living room is in an odd place. I would put a switch near the top of the stairs as you enter the house. I would put at least four recessed can lights around the ceiling in the living room. You might even consider a ceiling fan with or without a light in the living room. There are no lights in the space between the dining room and the stairs. Add recessed can lights in this area as well. The kitchen does not have enough recessed can lights. In the kitchen they should be placed approximately 3 feet apart. You might consider recessed can lights in the bedroom with a dimmer switch as well as a fan with the light that you already show. Each bathroom could use one recessed can light in the middle of the bathroom. Recessed can lights are very inexpensive. You should be using LED's and you will never be sorry....... Also, take another look at the number of outlets that you have along the walls. You could use a few more. Code says that they should be 12' apart, but this is a minimum. Add more....... What about outside? I see no lights around the side of the house? Do you have outlets outside for holiday lights?