Wow, there is a lot of good information here. Glad I posted with my problem, now I have something new to try out. Thanks owbist. ravencajun, thanks for the compliment but I only had the first half of it figured out and cboy came to the rescue and helped me with the last half of it. I can't take all the credit. "Smiles" Then zep516 came in catching the fact that System Restore wasn't working right and gave me great information on how to correct that. This was the first time that I've had problems with my desktop, but I have changed the backround on it before and I remembered that and I thought why not check it out and see if I could get it to change and that is when I discovered that the backround had been changed and all I had to do was to put it back like I had it, but then I didn't know how to get the icons back and that's when cboy posted the solution for me. If that ever happens to me again I will know exactly what to do. Thanks owbist for telling me how to move the icons down to the taskbar. I will try that on Wednesday, I will have more time to try it out then. thirdfrt!!!

In addition to sunscald, another possibility is sudden and severe drops in temperature. Peppers don't like that, and leaves will turn white as a result. Peppers really don't like temperatures below 50F. Again, this calls for hardening off. Of course, if some of the white rubs off, it's powdery mildew.

M - First, the hooked leaves with misshaped margins isn't due to issues related to light. You need to be careful about trying to increase uptake of a single nutrient by adding more of it; this, because an excess/toxicity of Ca can cause a deficiency of Mg (magnesium). If the reason for the deficiency was/is culturally caused, and I suspect it was/is, the best path to resolution is by way of correcting the cultural cause. The reason I suspect there is no actual deficiency of Ca in the medium is, the medium would almost certainly have been pH adjusted with dolomitic lime, which contains Ca and Mg in a favorable ratio, and your plant hasn't been in the medium long enough to have depleted the Ca. Not only that, but the Mg fraction contained in the liming agent/dolomite is about 125x more soluble than the Ca fraction. This means a Mg deficiency would very likely appear precedent to a Ca deficiency. The best way to resolve this issue isn't by focusing on fixing a Ca deficiency; rather, by focusing on ensuring your nutritional supplementation program is holistically appropriate. I'm not sure if you live in the US, but Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 fertilizer is an excellent source of nutrients and all your plant needs for normal growth and vitality. Everything I currently grow is fertilized with FP 9-3-6 with the exception of tomatoes and (when I grow them) hibiscus. For those I still use FP 9-3-6, but I doctor it with soluble forms of P and K from other products. If you do decide to treat the deficiency rather than correct the cultural cause, I suggest you use a product that also contains Mg ...... something like Cal-Mag (click link), which will help keep the Ca:Mg ratio balanced to prevent the antagonistic deficiency I explained somewhere above. If you use it, use it as a soil drench only; this, because the Ca fraction of the solution is not mobile in the plant, so it will not provide added Ca to new growth as it appears. As a soil drench, it would be constantly in the nutrient stream. But again, the best way to address it is with a fertilizer that has all essential nutrients (including all micronutrients) in an appropriate ratio. Last, moisture meters don't measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the probe, add distilled water to a clean cup, insert the probe, note that it reads DRY. Sprinkle a little table salt in the water to add a few ions, and the needle moves to WET. A wooden "tell" will tell you accurately when it's time to water. I'll leave you with something I wrote about using a tell. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Edited to say: This thread might be of interest as it talks about the likelihood more harm than good will come from trying to treat a deficiency of a single nutrient. Al

Yep, efflorescence is mot likely the culprit. It occurs when salts are present in the water used to mix the cement grout. Do you, by chance, have a water softener? If so, that's probably where the salts came from. Or it may be that salts are in your local water. Salts commonly found in cement grout include potassium sulfate, calcium carbonate, sodium carbonate, and manganese oxide. The cure is cleaning vinegar and a stuff toothbrush. Cleaning vinegar is a stronger acid concentration than you will find in food-grade vinegar, and is preferred to cleaning grout. Once the efflorescence is removed, wait at least a week to see if it comes back. Keep removing it until it stops reappearing, then seal the grout.