Hi, we just finished a master bath remodel similar to the look you are going for, white subway tile and frameless glass enclosure. We did tile all the way to the ceiling and I think it's a cleaner, nicer look than stopping short of the ceiling a foot or two. The only situation I see where you wouldn't want to tile up to the ceiling is if you have very, very tall ceilings in a small space - would emphasize the height too much and throw everything off balance I think. From your picture, it looks like you have standard 8 foot ceilings, so I would definitely tile all the way up if I were you. I can try to take a picture of my bathroom so you can see the look, but if you search for "white subway tile bathroom" you can find lots of helpful pictures through google images. Good luck with your bathroom remodel!

Yes, she's the same daughter from "way back when". Time certainly flies, doesn't it? She never had any issues from her peers in high school regarding being a smart or a hard working girl, or being geared towards STEM. She's well-rounded. Not musical, though she was in the ensemble for the school musicals. Very athletic. An "All Star" in Field hockey, An All Star, All-State and Academic All American in lacrosse. Team MVP for both sports. No issues in college either in terms of her being committed to her academics. A nice transition for her in her freshman year is that she was in the "honors dorm". So she was surrounded by serious students. But they also knew how to party. And they certainly did! She really is on her way, so to speak. In some ways it's easy, in that a STEM-type education easily leads into a STEM-type of profession down the road. My son is the complete opposite. Very musical, in a few bands, he was the lead in the high school musicals, etc. Also athletic. Also team captain, team MVP, etc. While he is intelligent and does well academically, he does well "when he wants to". He's totally a liberal arts kind of guy. Zero, and I mean ZERO interest in STEM. After his freshman year in college, he took a year off to go out-of-country to do volunteer work. He's back in school now. I wont say he's disillusioned...but he's trying to put together "liberal arts education" with "career after graduation" and he's seeing that they don't line up as well as a STEM-education does. There's always the argument that a liberal arts education is just that...a basis for a well-rounded education. He's a prolific reader. While he's on a path, and doing well on the path that he is on, he's trying to figure out where the path leads. So he's still searching. But yes, we are empty-nesters! Good and bad. Miss the kids, but it's fun being adult-ish again. We're not sure what we're going to do long-term with regards to the house. I love this house, the grounds, everything. It's all "us". But I could move. I just have no idea where to move to! My only requirement would be to remain on the water. Ocean, lake, whatever. Both kids have said if we ever sell this house that they want their bedrooms "pulled out of the house" for their children to eventually sleep in. lol. I told them I'll build them new ones. Good news is long-term the kids want to live near us, or want us to live near them. So we'll see how things shake out down the road. Back on your shower topic! If you want to do a mudded pan, you can make your own pitch strips. For example, let's say you're going to use the Laticrete flanged drain. It needs 1-1/4" of mud under the flange. If your drain is off-center, no worries: 1) Take the longest drain-to-wall (not drain-to-corner) measurement. Let's say it's 30". For a code-minimum 1/4" per foot pitch over that 2-1/2' run, you need 5/8ths inch of elevation change. 2) Add 5/8" to 1-1/4" and you'll have a perimeter elevation of 1-7/8", or 1-7/8" thick of mud at the base of each wall. Now the steepest pitch you can have by code is 1/2" per foot. So as long as none of your other wall-to-drain distances are less than half (3) Make your screed strips that will run from the drain flange to the walls or from the drain to the corners. Your screed strips will all go from 1-7/8" tall at the walls (including corners) to 1-1/4" tall at the drain. No matter what their length they will all be 1-7/8" tall at the wall and 1-1/4" tall at the drain. Since your drain is slightly off-center, the four different "triangular-shaped" parts of the floor that make up the inverted pyramid will have slightly different pitches from one another, but each pitched part will be in it's own plane. And you'll have a consistent mud depth around the perimeter of the shower. If you used those manufactured pitch strips, you'd have the same pitch (1/4" per foot throughout) on all four sloped parts of your floor, but the depth of the mud at the walls would vary throughout the shower. So your bottom course of wall tile would have to be scribed for it to fit. Easiest way to make your sloped screed strips is to rip the required slope on a table saw. It's very easy with a home-made scrap wood tapering jig. Some folk like to have a perimeter screed strip (in your case 1-7/8" tall) around the entire perimeter of the shower. They pack the mud against that, then pull the strip, and fill in the gap with mud and pack the gap full. If you do that I recommend tapering one side of the strip (wider at the top, narrower on the bottom), it's easier to pull a tapered strip out of packed mud than a rectangular shaped strip. So: Pack your perimeter mud. Pack your drain flange mud. Fill in the remainder, using the screed strips as your guide. Pull the strips, fill and pack the gaps. Clear as (deck) mud?

thanks all, ajsmama, yes I said Ididn't like the rug and I didn't, but this is the best pattern for that space andnow that I see it I see that dh and others here were correct. I know too funny, I now have what I didn't like and now like what i didn't like, strange process for me.

I have to laugh with the "red guard contractors". Yeah using membranes and mixing and matching different name brands and components to do a simple shower is the way to go. The more components you add the more to fail. Schluter saved everyone with their barrage of internet advertising. Heavy tile require a strong base. Your best bet would be simple roofing felt and some floated walls. This entire waterproofing deal is just out of control on here. One more time, the entire issue was when green board was being sold as or though to be waterproof. Tiling was done right over the gypsum board and when water intrusion happened the board crumbled and mold formed. Funny thing is do you know how many showers are still being used exactly like that with zero issue? There isn't a tile person incl myself who did not do showers like that back then. I had one in my own home that was going on 20 plus years without an issue as the caulk and grout was always kept up. Do most people even realize these membranes and some roll on waterproofing are still designed to be used on gypsum board. thats their entire purpose not for cement board although of course they can be used on them. Pick a tile that works for your layout. What you are seeing is what happen when these offshore Co's produce tile not taking into account normal US shower or tub sizing. Heck, they can be floor tiles?