There are several that have fruit golf-ball sized or a bit larger. Whitney, Chestnut are two good ones that I've grown. And, while TECHNICALLY not a crabapple (I guess, I don't really know what the technical definition is, other than a small apple, somewhat bitterish/astringent and sour) which I think is great for things like jelly and pickled apples is Pink Pearl. Check out Raintree Nursery for the Pink Pearl as well as their selection of crabapples. Here is a link that might be useful: Raintree Nursery

Mark, I saw in this thread that 'myk1' recommended the tried and true 'Braeburn Apple' to you. While they do produce good fruit and may be tried and true in the region where he lives it won't work in central MN. Many have tried unsuccessfully to grow it here- in MN the tree isn't cold hardy enough, but the main issue will be ripening too late. It would surprise me if you ever taste a ripe apple from a MN grown Braeburn (if one lives long enough to bare). Sticking with the University of Minnesota apple varieties is the way to go. If the commonly found commercial apple varieties worked in MN the University wouldn't have started the breeding program 150 years ago in the first place. From (http://www.minnesotaharvest.net/apple_wealthy.htm) "The Wealthy Apple: Starting from Seed" In 1860, Horace Greeley told his audience, "Never move to Minnesota...you can't grow apples there!" This was the same Horace Greeley who was responsible for the grand command of the century, "Go West, Young Man!" For Minnesota, a pioneer land only two years into statehood, such a reputation was sure to be detrimental to efforts aimed at attracting westward-moving Easterners to settle here. His apple statement was true at the time. But even as Greeley spoke, a fruit-loving Minnesotan was planting and evaluating apple trees started with seeds collected from northern sources, even some from Siberia. As a MN fruit grower I would recommend that you get at least one Zestar tree. It is the offspring of State Fair, and shares its early September ripening date. Zestar is a large firm apple with a great sweet and tart flavor perfect for fresh eating or cooking. Other good UMN varieties include (honeygold, haralson, wealthy, macintosh, chestnut crab, regent, connel red...) With the number of varieties you have planted, you shouldn't have any trouble with pollination. If you do find that your early or late season bloomers aren't setting good crops flowering crab apples make the best pollinators. Crabs are best because they are selected for their extended bloom period and profusion of flowers (more flowers=more pollen). Make sure you choose an ornamental crab that sets fruit, the fruitless ones are sterile and won't produce viable pollen.

if they bloomed at the same time, crabs would work. both one green world and raintree have pollinator charts(probably on the websites, too)- those are common varieties- look and see if they'll work with each other.

I am going to assume you didn't know about Cedar Apple Rust before you planted the trees, but just for the benefit of others who might be wanting to plant apples or crabapples, the best advice is to think long and hard before you do it. Because cedar trees are widespread in our state and very invasive, it is very hard, if not almost impossible, to grow healthy apples and crabapples here. I love apples, but have lived here for 10 years and never planted one because I don't want to deal with cedar apple rust. Since you've already planted the trees, though, you have to deal with it. So, in answer to your questions: I don't think it is possible to control it on the cedars themselves. What you can do is remove the cedar apples (the fungal growths, also known as galls) before they form horns. If they have already formed horns it is too late. And, if there are cedar trees within about 2 miles of you, the disease can be carried through the air, so removing the cedar apples from the infected cedar trees near you may help a little, but it won't prevent airborne cedar apple disease spores from infecting your plants. You can spray your crabapples with a fungicide that is labeled for use on crabapples for the prevention/control of cedar apple rust, but the spraying has to be done at very specific temperatures and at very precise times. I believe the spores transfer most readily when temperatures are in the 60s. The fungicide most readily available to homeowners for Cedar Apple Rust on crabapples is cholorothalonil, most often sold as Daconil, and often used by vegetable gardeners, for example, to prevent Early Blight on tomatoes. I think you also can use a different fungicide called Bayleton. Just read and follow the label directions IF it is not too late, weatherwise and temperaturewise, in your area. Even though your crabapple trees are new to you, they actually are several years old by the time you buy them, so the application of a fungicide following label directions should not harm them at all. Just be sure you dilute the fungicide and apply it as directed. The entire life cycle of cedar apple rust from cedar tree to its transferrence to apple trees takes almost 2 years. It is an ever-present threat. It is the reason you don't see vast orchards of apples in Oklahoma. Of the two crabapples you plante, I think Prairiefire is considered highly disease-resistant and Profusion less so. However, disease-resistant only means the tree has some resistance, not immunity, and even disease-resistant trees can and do get diseases. Cedar Apple Rust is the main cause of rust on apple trees, but you also have to watch out for the closely related Cedar-Quince Rust and Cedar-Hawthorne Rust. They are controlled/prevented by the same fungicides. Please understand though that even the regular application of fungicide is no guarantee the trees won't become infected. Understand also that cedar apple rust is not something that will be a problem only once. If is an issue for your trees one year, it probably will be an issue for them every year when the temperatures are in the precise range that allows the spores to transfer and infect apple trees. Only you can decide if you want to deal with the cedar-apple rust disease every year, or if you'd rather cut your losses and replace your crabapple trees with some other kind of tree that is more disease-resistant. Good luck, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Cedar Apple Rust