BP - I read through your thread and thought I'd mention a couple of things. First, all oil-dry products aren't created equal. Some are less appropriate because of the particle size gradation, and some are inappropriate because of their instability (turn to clay after prolonged exposure to moisture). Freeze a tablespoon of the screened product in a plastic cup overnight. If it's stable when it thaws, it's ok to use. Screening the fines out of your ingredients is a practice that retains the important macropores, the spaces between the particles. The more interparticular spaces filled with air and the fewer with water, the more approval your plants will show for the effort of screening. I/ve done some side bt side tests of various plants grown in a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:perlite:peat vs the same ratiuo of pine bark:perlite:peat, and there was a significant difference in growth rate, vitality, and appearance with the CHC mix coming in a distant second. You won't need the extra water retention afforded by the CHCs, so I'd stick with the bark. CHCs are very high in K, and potentially very high in soluble salts (if processes with sea water). All CHC products are very low in Ca, potentially high in Mn (which can interfere with iron uptake). Several studies have also shown that the significant presence of phenolic allelochemicals (inhibits growth of other plants) in fresh coir can be very problematic for a high % of plants, causing poor growth and reduced yields if yields are a consideration. CHCs high pH (neutral is too high) also eliminates dolomite as a potential liming agent. Al

Biker: it's good to hear you use pumice for it's ease of use. Chances are real high that I would sift it out of the bag prior to use As some areas tend to be a little dusty from time to time in the substrate storage area. I think I should consider rinsing Don't get me wrong though I trust your word biker habits formed from cultivating disciplines are the most difficult habits to break. As I see a head shaking as I type why sift something that doesn't need sifting. In the past you where using grow stones and had some problems with certain species in your collection. Asking. A while ago on one thread or another I mentioned you wont over water with pumice. I may have used words to the effect that it will be difficult for ( even you) to over water. In comparison to grow stones is watering just okay ? easier ? more testing for you to determine ?

I think the drying times that you calculated with the pumice will be detrimental only if you water the plant/pumice while it is still wet. Beyond that, I think you may be over-thinking this and over-worrying. I get 1/8" pumice from General Pumice Products here in the U.S. I just sifted and washed a bucketful over the weekend. It is drying in big oil pans outside -- and right now, it's really cold here in SW Florida. I don't think it will be fully dry until Thursday, and that will be 5 days. Chris is right -- use unglazed terra cotta pots if you can. Even with pumice, they will remain lightweight. Haworthias in pumice shouldn't need to be watered more than once a week, unless you live in hot southern Florida in the summer. Even then, mine only get watered about every 5 days. You don't HAVE TO water a Haw the very minute its mix is dry. You can wait a day or so and it will be fine.

Karen I was going through pumice like it was going out if style;). That was truly the main reason why I started buying perlite again. But then I noticed the perlite really lightened the load. Not so heavy and dense. I feel like the perlite is great for aeration and the pumice is good at water retention. Personally I like the particles in my mix all different sizes. The pieces of pumice are slightly bigger than the perlite. Westes, I know you don't like the look of pumice, but give it a try. It's really wonderful. Pumice is one of the best things you can use in your mix. I can understand not using it because it's too expensive, but not because of esthetic reasons. There is so much info out there on how great it is and you have it so readily available;). I really enjoy bonsai and admire the people that can do it well. A man named Micheal Hagedorn does really amazing bonsai. He used turface in his mix before using pumice. Check out these two pics from this blog Life without Turface Mr. Hagedorn wrote. This is a pic of Pine tree roots planted in a Turface mix for 5 years. Below is Pine roots planted in a mix of pumice after 3 years. I know bonsai and succulents are not the same thing, but their mixes are definitely in the same vein, and we all want great roots. Amazing roots below equal a beautiful plant up top;). I mean come on who's lookin at the mix when the plant is stunning;). I don't filter my pumice, definitely do rinse and strain the two to get rid of any dust. It would make life easier if you put the cutting in pumice and water like normal. Give the plant the opportunity to dig and anchor itself with some good roots. The way you're watering is very counterproductive. I know people have already told you this, but we aren't just saying it just because we feel like it;). At first I didn't realize that's how you were watering that little guy. Doesn't surprise me one bit that there are no fine roots. How could there be the plant never has a chance to grow them. Roots need at least a few hours to absorb water. I can't imagine they absorb anything within a few minutes. That could be why the plant is absorbing the bottom leaves. I'm not trying to tell you how to do anything. They're your plants do what you want, but I'm just trying to help you see the other side of the coin;). If you take anything away from all these comments it's just to leave your plant be and give it a chance in pure pumice and water like normal once the mix is dry. I'm sure you will start to notice a huge difference in root growth;).