Thank you Chills! No, that's not the Stella branch. >>Konrad, to do that in your climate...You are truly a marvelYou really have to give this credit to our cold winters. Giuseppe, try to contact someone in the US, it's illegal to ship live plant material across. .... .... Not sure why nurseries have to lie.. I have e- mailed a nursery in the US about the false statement in their website saying: Bali was know in Canada as the Evans Cherry They where nice enough to fix it next day to: is know in Canada as Evans... Also they where saying.. > That probably wasn't the biggest lie on our website. Let me know if > you find others I also asked about the Evans they sell, grafted or on their own root? Reply: Where the heck do you get them on their own root??? We are also Zone 3, and our Bali, which we get from Bailey Nurseries in St. Paul, are grafted onto Mazzard Cherry rootstock, which is commonly listed as Zone 5. It is telling, I think, that I've never seen or heard of a plain old Mazzard Cherry growing as a tree in this area. And indeed I've heard reports of them dying over winter. I told them that I bought about a 100 trees 15 years ago from DNA. And that I would plant the grafted ones below the graft for zone 3, they thought it was a good idea. Konrad

Thanks everyone! I guess I'll wait it out until spring and see what happens. As I said, I havn't seen any signs of sap oozing from any of the wounds or fungal fruiting bodies. Whats the odds the wounds will callous over? I can't get another tree until late winter/early spring. arktrees I'm constructing a small 1 acre collection of mostly conifers and maples but some other species. With our terrible summers, I've constructed tents/shade covers on most of the new plants to protect from late evening sun until the trees get established. I'll remove the structures after 2-3 years....ugly!...but small price to pay for healthy nonstressed specimens. It's not my place of residence anyway. I hand water each individual specimen during the first few years. During August-September watering every plant can take 4-5 hours per session but it will all pay off eventually. ken I don't see any sprouts above or below the graft union. I bought the tree from an Oregon grower. I have a lot more trees coming this winter/early spring and will just order a replacement....just in case. I'll ask the grower if they have seen any similar issues on their field grown stock. flora uk Zone ratings of the trees is based on estimated coldest temperature a tree can survive. They're all estimated and a lot of factors come into play. All zone 7 areas aren't the same climate. In my situation....Once you get to the upper end of the zone ranges, I have to worry about my zone 7b southern U.S. growing conditions (high temps, humidity, etc) that a typical zone 4-6 tree isn't accustomed to. I should never have to worry about reaching the cold extreme limits of a zone 4-6 tree. I'm sure european beech can grow in mild zone 7-9 climates throughout the world. I think it'll grow in my area too.......once fully established. j0nd03 Yeah this summer was horrible. Luckily I didn't loose many specimens. I lost a Larix eurolepsis (Larch) when we had that 112 degree day in August. It was ailing anyway. The extreme heat done it in. Funny thing is my other smaller larch are fine. Its was a bad year to plant larger specimens. They weren't established enough to handle the extreme summer conditions. Just too may roots removed from the B&B trees at harvesting and takes so long to regenerate! Oh yeah....I remember my username abciximab because it is a generic drug name. I'm a pharmacist. Patrick

I recently ordered some plants from western evergreen and I must say they were all quality plants! Ik sometimes the website might be tougher to navigate but if you email him he gets back promptly. Definetly would recommend ordering from him!

Yep. 2" Parafilm M for me. Been using it for 20 years. A 250 ft roll lasts me several years. I cut it into 6" lengths, then split those lengthwise into 3 more-or-less 2/3" wide strips. Had a chance to use some Parafilm 'grafting tape' during a presentation on grafting that I was giving to a Master Gardeners class...did not like it. Thicker, doesn't stretch or adhere to itself like good ol' Parafilm M. Wrap graft union and entire scion with parafilm - but for most purposes it does not have enough material strength to hold a graft together by itself - you need a 'strength' wrap - whether rubber bands(what I use), actual grafting/budding rubbers, Buddy tape, rubberized electrical splicing tape, strips cut from plastic bread bags, cotton string, surveyor's plastic tape..the list goes on. A friend, who for decades operated a major fruit tree nursery, just used plain ol' masking tape on apple/pear whip&tongue grafts - but those callus in so quickly that you don't need a whole lot of 'support' from your wrapping materials.