Please be careful installing the W/D in a manner that violates the manufacturer's specs. If you have a problem and need a service call under warranty some manufacturers are getting very picky about blaming you and not paying for the fix. Dryers need a lot of air to circulate. You would need some serious vents to provide that air. Enjoy your new kitchen. My W/D are in my kitchen, also, in a small "closet". It had a folding door over it until I replaced the old laundry center with a new stacked FL set. They stick out a bit too much to use a door, so now I can "enjoy" the view of my W/D every time I walk into the kitchen. At least I don't usually forget to take the clothes out of the dryer when they are done.

Drill the top frame near the latch side with a 1" forstner bit from the top to about 1/8" from going thru. Use of a positive drill stop is highly recomended. glue in a 1" dia X 1" long NC40 or better neodium magnet. At a matching location in the top of the door, drill a 1/2" X 1 1/4" deep hole. glue in a 1/2" dia X 1" long NC40 neodium magnet flush with the top of the door. MAKE SURE IT IS OPOSITE POLARITY FROM THE FRAME MAGNET. This makes a "no touch" "no show" latch that will gently pull the door closed from 1 to 2" but will have no effect on the door staying full open. The large magnet is needed because of the distance (1/8" wood + 1/8" door clearance). The Range of a magnet is roughly proportional to it's size. This same magnet would require a 50-75# pull to open the door if the magnets were touching. I just used this on a double door. The pull required to open the door is less than 5# (guesstimate). If you want stronger double up on the magnets. I wouldn't recomend larger magnets, they can get real nasty to handle.

Well...of course you can do anything you want. But...since you came here for advice, here's some ideas: Generally speaking, mixing painted walls with stained trim and/or doors is not always a good design idea. Why? Because there's simply too much contrast and competition between the two distinctly different materials and finishes. Each (stain vs. paint) fights the other for visual dominance and importance. It's always a battle to find a design solution for stain AND paint wall surfaces which harmonizes and isn't an eye-magnet. It can be done, but it takes a great deal of talent and experience to bring it off. What to do? You cannot go wrong by matching materials and finishes. Painted walls with painted trim and doors. Stained walls with stained trim and doors. This design approach unifies and ensures harmony on your walls (unless you're into the "Color of the Month" syndrom, for which there is simply no possible help). Hope this helps. Good luck!

I would use regular hinges for the new, solid doors as they can handle more weight and will hold up for years without needing adjustment compared to things like Euro hinges in this application. You don't need more than three hinges. Your new doors may already come with the hinge mortises completed. In any case, it's unlikely that that the holes in the new hinges will line up with the existing holes in the jambs. As for catches, quality ball catches that are adjustable will work fine. Cheap, nonadjustable ball catches are a poor choice, and that is probably where your bad experience comes from. I have ball catches on a pair of doors into my laundry and my two pantries. They're 20+ years old and still function effortlessly. This is the type of design you want where the ball can be screwed up or down for a good fit: Adjustable ball catch