It's only the leaves on low branches close to the trunk that do this - typically you only see it on young plants, and plants sheared as hedges. Resin

Here's what I found Apples are Kingdom: Plantae Division: Magnoliophyta Class: Magnoliopsida Order: Rosales Family: Rosaceae Subfamily: Maloideae Genus: Malus Species: Malus domestica - domestic apple. Roses are Same except Subfamily = Rosoideae Genus = Rosa Species = Rosa speciosa. Plants of the same botanical genus and species can usually be grafted even if different varieties. Plants of the same genus but different species often can be grafted but the result may be weak or short-lived, or they may not unite at all. Plants of different genera are less successfully grafted, although there are some cases where this is possible. For example, quince, genus Cydonia, may be used as a dwarfing rootstock for pear, genus Pyrus. So I guess I answered my own question. Seemed like a good idea though. I'd like to have a rose hanging from the top of an apple tree.

I know what it looks like, didn't thrash my way through the shrubs between me and it to look for labeling. Because for one thing the site tends to have signs listing what plants in each section are rather than individual labeling. (I don't remember now if one of the signs mentioned this tree, I was there with somebody else and we viewed, talked about multiple different theme plantings with dozens of different kinds of plants in them). With European hornbeam except for certain apparently smaller than typical selections such as 'Globosa' (28 ft. tall at the University of Washington by 2005) and 'Pendula' one is always dealing with what is a tall (60 ft.+) tree genetically. With as always with trees there being variations in what occurs over the same periods of time due to differences in site conditions. For purposes of illustration sub-alpine fir is known in the wild both as a 100 ft. tree and a creeping shrub, as well as versions in between. Due entirely to the range of environmental factors within which the species occurs naturally.

When, or under what conditions is it appropriate to transplant them? What about pruning - I think the Stewartia is about as large as is appropriate for the space. If you're looking to maximize ramification (branch and leaf density) you should prune all the second order (and higher) branches back to 2 buds anytime after leaf drop and before spring budswell. Then, look the tree over for opportunities to shorten primary branches and the tree's ht, considerably, to a shape you can build on. A primary/ first order branch is one attached to the trunk; a secondary/ 2nd order branch will be attached to a 1st order; and a tertiary (3rd order) attached to a second order, etc. When, or under what conditions is it appropriate to prune them? Stewartia: heavy pruning should be done while dormant. Pinching can be done anytime you have a pair of sharp scissors/ secateurs in your hand. To pinch, wait until any branch has 2 or 3 leaves on it, then terminate/prune/pinch the branch beyond the second or 3rd leav. This will force new lateral branches in the leaf axils proximal to the pinch. The roots for both are quite pot-bound - should I prune the roots? There is a significant difference between potting up and repotting. Potting up is a half measure that only relieves the stress of root congestion by a fraction; whereas, repotting includes bare-rooting (in most cases), root pruning, and a change of soil. Repotting entirely removes the stress associated with root congestion while repotting ensures root congestion will be a permanent limiting factor, at least until a pair of hands gets into the root/soil mass to correct congestion and problem roots. The stewartia should be repotted in late March or early April before or just at the onset of budswell. The umbrella pine (not a true pine) can be repotted when deciduous trees in the landscape start showing green. It shouldn't be bare-rooted, leave some soil on the root mass. It will also be helpful if you chop up a handful of the fine roots and mix it into the new soil as an innoculant for whatever fungi the plant might have formed a symbiotic relationship with. Both trees should be protected from frost after onset of spring growth. If so, can you suggest a good resource for learning about root-pruning? Try Here What do you recommend for the soil in the new pots? The medium should be something you can water to beyond the point of complete saturation, without concern the medium will remain soggy for an extended period, affecting root function or worse, root health. That means it should be based on a very large fraction of coarse material unless your pots will be resting directly on top of the ground/ mineral soil. If the pot rests on the ground, from the perspective of hydrology, it becomes a small raised bed because you have the earth acting as a giant wick to pull excess water from the container. The only caveat is that there must be direct contact, a bridge, if you will, between the medium in the pot and the earth for this to work. I use 2 different soils, though in recent years my gardening in containers has morphed almost entirely to trees and a few succulents, which means I now primarily use the medium in the second image below. If your pots rest on the ground, you can use media that would otherwise be too water retentive, especially for the umbrella pine. Much more info about soils if you click me.