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Remodeling Flooring

NEW Rift and Quarter Sawn White Oak Scratching and Denting Easily

last year

last modified: last year

We installed new flooring throughout the first floor of our historic brownstone in Brooklyn NY.

Its 4 inch solid select and better rift and quarter sawn white oak. We had heard Loba Supra 2K was the best way to finish for ultimate scratch protection and durability. Our GC had floor guy follow exact loba instructions and primer, 3 coats of poly etc.

It scratches and dents so easily. new scratches appear from everything- even crumbs. once there is a scratch you can scratch it further and the finish will come up in your fingernail.

Is this normal!?! we are in contact with Loba who said that anything can scratch a floor, but Ive been in so many places with beautiful wood floors and Ive never seen anything like this - with the white lines and everything.

Rep said our robo vac caused the lines below but why would it peel?

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Comments (12)

PRO
G & S Floor Service
last year
The third photo shows that your finish peeled off. Which is a sure sign of adhesion problems. You will need to trace back the entire application process and timing. Something was not done properly to cause that issue. A adhesion test should be done to see how much of the flooring is affected. The adhesion problem is why your finish is so vulnerable.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
last year
"UV finishes typically are 20 to 40 percent more durable than conventional two-component finishes."

Sand that stuff off and start over please.
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HI Laurie, I would consider the Rose stain a light-medium stain. (as opposed to a true medium or dark-medium) It's not as dark as the oak stain that was so common back in the 80's or that you see in oak kitchen cabinets. Our hallway is quite dark (no windows) so those pictures were with the hall light on. (Sorry I had to take those pictures down.) It's definitely not as light as say natural maple or a vanilla stain. We like it because our darker wood furniture pieces look good with it and yet it doesn't make the house feel dark. If you are unsure, order a box of it an lay it out. I did that when I was first looking with several brands/styles of wood flooring and it really helped me decide which way to go color wise. It's hard to envision a whole room of one color with one little stick or two. Take the Rose sample into a big box store and see if they have a box of wood or laminate in a color close to it...take it home and lay out the whole box! They will let you return it if you have receipt. It sure helps! Hope that helps! :)
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My experience is with engineereds. I agree that they are not the same as good old fashioned solid hardwoods I grew up with and see around with their beautiful patinas. They delaminate with a spill sometimes very easily if you're not there to get it up immediately. Little pieces of wood chip out of the flooring with pet claws. The newer ones have the aluminum oxide that scratches unnaturally white. I grew up with a menagerie of pets and kids and this type of thing did not happen with that floor. It was wax and did get some stains but it was good solid wood. Very impressive kitchen store who really knows his stuff says they only do solids and they hold up great. He wouldn't bother with the engineered stuff, pfft. The installs at their store did not look like the furniture type prefinisheds. They were still beautiful with natural patina from years of store abuse. I'm trying another engineered this time around, out of necessity, but would much rather have a traditional 3/4 solid finished on site. At least they can be restored down the road. Who wants to replace their floors every 15 years. That's not why you get hardwoods. If this one doesn't hold up either, it will be painted if possible.
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"What do you recommend for installation?" A true rift and quartered solid 5 1/4" only needs to be nailed (I don't like staples) providing you have the relative humidity in check in all areas of the dwelling. No need for gluing. That reference comes from plain sawn (regular) hardwoods. "Not a professional, but much of the "engineered" hate seems to stem from the past." Thanks sprinkles. There are still a good number of 'old schoolers' out there too that only want the real thing. Take your time and understand the differences. There can be a lot to know.
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Ashara Z
last year
What is a UV finish example?

I'll upload more pictures- everything leaves long white scratches in the finsih.
PRO
G & S Floor Service
last year
You will need to redo the floors. You just need to figure out when, where and how the mistake was made to prevent a repeat.
Ashara Z
last year
Our chairs are covered in silicone with felt at bottom- crumbs scratch the coating! This os 4 weeks of use.
PRO
G & S Floor Service
last year
Your floors looks like it has a stain coat on it. The problem may be that the stain did not completely dry enough befoe applying the Loba Invisible.
Ashara Z
last year
What is the most durable finish for these floors?
Ashara Z
last year
Also- our GC said a light screening and 4th cost of poly wohkd fix it. Is that true?
PRO
G & S Floor Service
last year
You have a installer (application) problem, not a product problem. The problem is with either drying, abrading or contamination caused by installer. The installer needs to figure that out. The problem maybe wide spread or it maybe isolated. Loba Invisible is a great product when applied properly. Switching to a different brand will not solve your adhesion problem.

Have the contractor do a adhesion test in several spots. This will help determine whether screening and re-coating is a waste of time or not. If, the issue is isolated, then go ahead with the screen and recoat. If, it is wide spread, redo the floors.

I suspect the cause of the problem can be one of the following The stain was either not completely dried or it's not compatible with the Invisible. The Invisible is just sitting on top. It never bonded to the stain.
Ashara Z
last year
The Loba rep is super helpful. He said the minwax stain didn't dry enough before the primer was applied. He will walk us through the resand and refinish. Thanks for all your help b
PRO
G & S Floor Service
last year
last modified: last year
I would not use Minwax directly under Loba's two component finishes. Use Bona or Loba stains. The pigments in Minwax takes a very long time to dry - 72 plus hours.

You cannot rush chemicals. Stay within parameters of the product.
Keen B
10 months ago
last modified: 10 months ago
We finished our floors with 1 coat Invisible AT, and 2 coats 2k Supra AT. We let them cure for as long as possible--weeks. We let our dogs on them afterwards, and one of them needed her nails trimmed but we simply couldn't get them done in time, and of course, we worried, but had no choice. Fortunately, she has made zero marks though she is 80 lbs, jumps off bed, goes up and down stairs, runs down hall. Not a mark. Her nails will be trimmed ASAP, but so far floors are still brand new. I suspect you did not get the product you wanted, or they applied way too thin, or they forgot to had the AT element?

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