Mine is ... oh, about 15' tall and 8' wide - that's a wild guess - and it's about 15 years old DO NOT plant it too close to the pole or the wires, because Comcast will be just as likely to butcher it as they were the lowly spruce, and you'll be even madder at them! These guys do grow fairly slowly, but they eventually get BIG! I love the texture, and the glossiness of the leaves. My mom has one that is in full sun, and it's sort of burnt looking all the time - mine gets afternoon shade which seems ideal for this plant.

" There is no reason to not fertilize plants correctly at planting time. And since a lot of woody material coming from retail garden centers has often been sitting there, waiting to sell for some months fertilization can be a critical need at the time of purchase by the end consumer." I must buy from "better" nurseries. Almost all new, container grow perennials/trees/shrubs I buy have copious amounts of tan or green "time release" (aka, wrong time!) fertilizer pellets throughout the soil mix. That I increasingly find plants without this 'feature' establish better and more permanently, strongly suggests to me that they probably already come loaded up with an optimal or (usually) beyond amount of NPK. I will fertilize early on in cases where obviously, it makes sense...a few micro-nurseries for example, that don't load their potting soil up with beads. Fresh rooted rhodo cuttings from Van Veen. (but even then, only VERY lightly!) but yes I'm saying as a blanket rule with most mass produced woody plants in MOST of the country (perhaps not Florida) it's either wasteful or frankly counter-productive to immediately fertilize them. I don't have the means or time to go commission some study of this, but I'm confident I'd be correct and will go on recommending that. Now, in an intense horticultural production environment, like wholesale field production of shade trees...it's different. They are planning to dig them all up in a few years. So studies tailored to that situation are clearly inadmissible. There is no reason to not fertilize plants correctly at planting time. Yes, the reason being quite simply, they usually don't need it. Usually doesn't mean always, obviously. Certain genus are an exception too, like Brugsmansias which are complete hogs when it comes to plant food. cf sample prior discussion: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/various-conifers-when-to-fertilize-dsvw-vd~1877846

I don't know when it was originally planted (more than 3 years ago) but we moved it a couple months ago. It's had an orange appearance for as long as we've been here, just not quite this severe. Our soil is mostly sand and drains very quickly so I'm pretty sure it wasn't getting enough water. Even though it's been well watered since we moved it the stress of moving might have been too much. I think an Umbrella Pine was the wrong plant for our soil to begin with. I hate to give up on a plant if there's the slightest chance it will survive, but this looks like a lost cause.

I would say its undergoing a transplant shock. Don't overwater and watch the soil. Not much to do now but to observe. Usually the bigger the plant, the more susceptible they can be to transplant shock. Its possible the roots got damaged when you set it in the soil. My practice is to provide water to the plant hours before a transplant. That is to sustain it while its healing. What I expect will happen now is that your tree will get some die backs and lose leaves or branches even. But for as long as the trunk is alive, it is okay. Do not ever fertilize a newly transplanted plant. It does not need fertilizers and fertilizers can even cause damage to the tree.