Take the cabinets as high as you can on the 8 ft wall and then match that height on the vaulted side. I wouldn't have mismatched stacks and heights on different walls.

We had a similar situation when we remodeled the kitchen in our previous house. Don't have a good photo, but this was the elevation drawing.

Hey, there is a lot of potential with the space. But before recommending something, what is your budget, How much of an overhaul seems okay?

Thank you for sharing the professional drawings, it helps a lot in making suggestions.

Agree your cabs look nice! other option is to redo floor and keep extra flooring if you don’t want to commit to a full reno now. i thought about a breakfast bar like yours snd very glad i didn’t do it as i prefer a more open feel. i’d lop it off. maybe a tiny kitchen cart could work (ie 18x18”) although would be pretty tight. i’d use a box to mock it up.

agree with uppers to ceiling on shorter wall then match. leaving it more open around window would be nice but i’d be realistic about what storage you need.

Thanks, both of you! Honestly, I am most interested in brainstorming possibilities and getting a range of options on the table. So go wildly creative in recommendations. I love dreaming and scheming.

But you do have a good question on what is too much. It is hard to feel motivated for a complete overhaul when we aren't unhappy with it practically/functionally. You know In terms of time and $ - just dedicating that much of our lives to a kitchen that we enjoy but use moderately.

For instance, I wondered for a hot minute about moving the stove around to that shorter L wall and letting it be a focal point, doing a real floor to ceiling wall of cabinets on the long one (including the fridge). But it seemed over-complicated to move the ducting/wiring/gas for a problem that might have any number of easier and equally attractive solutions.

Chispa, I was thinking of no cabinets on the 8 ft wall thinking it might feel too closed in to have them so high on three walls. We were considering some open shelving there. But visualizing isn't always my strong point. Your drawing does look exactly like the dilemma with that tall wall though and I don't see a lot of people with experience there! Did you have other stacked cabinets in that same room?

OK, submitted that comment and saw another vote for keeping the 8 ft wall cabinets and adding more on the 10+ ft wall too. I don't think we need them all but I'm sure we could fill them up. I'm concerned about it being claustrophobic adding more cabinets on all the walls. Would you also add them on the shorter wall that joins those two (with the pocket door to pantry)?

And yes, I should have mentioned - we are replacing the flooring which is what has motivated this whole discussion. I don't want to put in flooring that equals a premature commitment to this configuration. Not hugely bothered by it but also didn't pick it. So we have the flooring to go either way but it would be very noticable to do something like remove the breakfast bar later and patch that part. So we have backed our way into this project.

I could just figure out the lower part for now but I'm more comfortable considering it as a whole room even if we do it in stages.

I would only remove cabinets from the 8 ft wall if you plan on enlarging the window, which I think would really open up the kitchen space.

I had no stacked cabinets in that kitchen. What do you mean by stacked? It usually means having an upper layer of cabinets above the standard upper cabinets. The top height of my cabinets and their length was dictated by how far up we could place the upper cabinets on the 8 ft wall.

So 37" tall upper cabinets, 5" cabinet crown and 18" high for backsplash. Those same dimensions were carried over to the walls with sloped ceilings.

Consider moving the fridge so it doesn't take over the kitchen.

This layout feels cramped to me because of the 'L' to the left of the range and the peninsula to the left of the sink. Using the sink and range, you get pushed over in front of each because of those 'Ls'. Two people can't feel relaxed using either at the same time. One user can't move out of the way for the other person. I'd cut both off. I' swap the double sink for a 24" single bowl in a 24" sink base. Undermounted, that sink with minimum radius corners is 21" wide by 18" deep. Larger than either side of a double. I'd like more workzone width on either side of a slide-in range. Why slide-in? Because I'd space the base cabinets out from the wall to allow for 30" deep counter. Kinda island like work space. All drawer base full width on each side. Easy access for pans and utensils. No uppers. A hood 6" wider than the range. I'd pull the frig and relocate it at the right end of the sink run. Next to the pantry. Position the range in the center of the now open range run. You could go with a 30 or 36" induction range like a Bosch 800 industrial. Position the sink under the left side of the window with the dishwasher to the left. You can adapt to loading to the left. An upper cabinet above for dish and glass storage. You can have an upper next to the frig. . .I think this gives you a more open work zone plan with more comfortable space for two or more people to use the different zones to prep, cook and clean up. The same 30" counter depth for the sink run.

I agree with most of the posters to raise the uppers to the ceiling on the 8' wall and have the same on the other wall.

I'd consider having a larger window and get rid of the peninsula on the DR side. I think you won't need a counter depth fridge when peninsula is gone, unless you prefer to have one.

I'm not sure about having no uppers on the pantry wall. Consider an easy reach cab on the corner instead of a diagonal one if you have uppers on the that short wall.

Thanks, chispa. Stacked cabinets would be adding another set above the existing ones. I'll add some example pictures from the internet. If we did more glass fronts, I would probably not have them be the shorter top ones though. We had been thinking to add on one or two walls but probably not all three. The lower height cabinets on all three sides we have now isn't my favorite. But the sloping ceiling is perplexing me a bit.

Some options for space opened up c

ould be open shelving (either side of hood over stove or either side of window) or pegboard (smaller wall with pocket door to pantry). And yes, a bigger window is something we discussed for the sink wall if that is the one that doesn't have cabinets.

Thanks, Beverly - any suggestion on placement/new layout in general? The fridge hasn't been a problem and is convenient on that outer edge in terms of accessibility (inside the kitchen and dining area/passersby). For some reason it is built into the cabinet but not a counter depth fridge so that is annoying/needs to be changed. But we could potentially move it while reconfiguring cabinets to address the tall wall/unused breakfast bar issues.

Definitely raise the cabinets on the 8' wall and match their height on the other walls. No zigzags!

If you're getting rid of the breakfast bar, consider putting the fridge there and enclosing it properly. Your kitchen will flow more naturally since when you prep you usually start at the fridge, go to the sink and finish at the stove. And you'll have more counter space to the right of your stove (much desired if you're right handed).