the partition wall is using up space as you have two "passages" created...not necessarily needed....Take out partition wall..make dining zone in that area.....eliminate peninsula in kitchen....go for L shape kitchen on the window and pantry wall and give a destination island where dining table sits now. More needs to be known about your space, and adjacent spaces.

That kitchen makes no sense at all. You have only 3 mimsy little sections of countertop to work on (besides the island). But the island is clearly designed primarily for eating. Think of this: When you're baking or prepping a turkey, where do you put the big stuff as you work? You have no counter section big enough to hold the turkey pan and the bowl of stuffing as you fill the bird, no counter section big enough for a cookie sheet and a stand mixer. And don't suggest doing the raw turkey on the island, because there is no sink there for it and the island is for eating; you don't want raw turkey goop on the island. You have no continuous countertop flow between the sink and the stove (because of the oven), so every drippy thing has to be carried across the floor because there's an oven in the way. Slip hazard. And with the freezer, pantry, and wine/coffee bar 25 feet away, it gives the sense that the whole 625 sq. ft. space is kitchen. There's no place to put a dining table that allows it to have its own space. It will always look like a kitchen table, caught in the cross traffic between two 6-foot doorways. Do-over.

Since you'll want your living area by the fireplace (and patio doors), your kitchen and dining space would be on the opposite end of the great room. Perhaps you could create an "L" shaped kitchen along the outside wall in the corner left of the patio doors so you can have a window over your sink and a kitchen door to the outside to access your trash can without going through the living area.

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree regarding base cabinet storage (island or anywhere else) vs upper cabinet storage. First -- this is assuming the base cabinets are drawer bases or, at the very least, with roll out tray shelves (ROTS). [The builder-grade base cabinets with stationary shelves (and, sometimes, half shelves!), are very, very poor for storage.] Drawer bases are twice as deep as uppers (24"D base vs 12"D uppers) Drawer bases are approx 30" tall (not counting toe-kick space & counters). Uppers range from 30" to 42", but most are 30" or 36". Drawer bases...everyone can reach the entire height & depth of drawers within the drawer base Uppers...Most people cannot reach more than half-way up the uppers, and in most of those cases, only the very front of most shelves ROTS vs drawers -- drawers are more functional than ROTS, but if you cannot get drawers, at least get ROTS. Most here, including me, recommend all drawer bases with very few exceptions. One exception is the trash pullout, although it could be argued it is similar to a drawer since the base/hanging piece is attached to the door and pulls out with one motion. Here's a thread where drawers vs ROTS are discussed: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2502678/drawers-over-pull-outs-in-cabinets All that said, I prefer a combination of both drawer bases & upper cabinets. Some things, in my opinion, work better in uppers -- we're a tall family and we found that dish & glass storage does work better in uppers as opposed to drawers. However, if I had to choose one or the other, I'd choose drawers. For a short family, it's possible dish & glass storage may work better in drawers.