Does anybody use cooking sprays?
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Does anybody use Christmas lights for the freeze?
Comments (36)This winter I again found myself with two babies I recently planted in my backyard. First was a 6 ft tall ( but skinny ) Valencia Pride mango tree I planted 4 1/2 mos ago, to replace the 22 ft giant that I had to cut down in May 2016, ( grew so fast it was blocking half the sunshine from my banana patch ! Live and learn ! ). The other baby is the robust 5 ft tall Ruby Red grapefruit tree I planted 3 months ago. Have already warned the Citrus Greening monster to stay away, - OR ELSE !!! No way was I going to subject these promising beauties to the four nights during the last two weeks, ( low temps all 4 nights between 36 and 30 deg ), that most likely would have killed both trees ! Bad news is it looks like I lost most of the 25 + banana plants, but no way could I have kept them warm,...still undecided whether to replant them or not ! Anyway, I was able to get out two strings of C- 7 Christmas tree lights, two extension cords and a couple of old white sheets from my shed for the two young trees. Needless to say this protection worked like a charm, as it has in the past. The sheets were removed only yesterday ( Friday ) but the C-7's will remain installed till I am sure we here are " out of the woods ! " Both youngsters look great ! The C-7's have always worked for me here on Florida's SW coast, - no need to string the C-9's. Now looking forward to March 1st.,,..will miss the bananas but more concerned about the two young trees, - my fate could easily have been much worse !...See MoreCooking spray?
Comments (24)I use a cooking spray every morning for my eggs. I spray the frying pan in the sink so overspray is not a problem. I spray anything that would get dirtier. I have never had any gunk or residue of any kind. I would spray casserole dishes for baked beans. I use parchment for most baking-cookie sheets, breads. I spray and scrub less. Less ingested fats. Those are my priorities. We are healthy. But then we eat plain, gravy free food. I blot the fat off our food. Maybe I blot some taste off, too, but I'd rather not have grease. Everything has a chemical composition....See MoreAnybody actually have problems after spray foam?
Comments (13)Our company has been in the insulation business for 36 years in the north east region of the country. There are several pros and cons about spray foam. here are a few. PROS: 1)excellent air infiltration blocker 2) High r value per inch for CLOSED CELL only. 3) good vapor retarder for CLOSED CELL only. 4)..ummm thats it!!!!! CONS: 1) expensive (about 6-7 times more expensive than fiberglass or cellulose) 2)not tested long term for future problems 3)shrinkage. 4) vapor barrier on wrong surface..typically vapor barriers go against warmest surface not exterior cold surfaces. in stick built construction spray foam will only be a nominal fill with closed cell which is definitely the foam you should use..OPEN CELL manufacturers are getting hit with law suits for their open cell product due to its non ability to stop moisture permeance. when 2 part foams came back around open cell was being widely used with no vapor barrier, hence moisture issues and mold.. now they said it must be covered with a retarder ex poly.. Paint DOES NOT WORK!!! Air can still get into wall sytems near floor and outlets. closed cell is a nominal fill 2" may be 2.5" so there is 1" of space behind drywall. Well foam shrinks a little over the years about 2-3% and lumber shrinks 3-4%, well gaps open even tiny tiny gaps, cold air meets warm air in the space behind drywall and guess what happens.. water water everywhere. 5) spray a roof deck and let me know when you need a roof tare off in 10 years because decks will not stay cool and wood sheathing like OSB will get damaged, and oh yeah guess whats attached to the sheathing..foam, so reinsulating will be necessary, glad i spent $5000 to spray roof 6)just added another 5000+ cubic feet of heating space in the attic. 7)if sprayed on roof deck they dont cover rafters with the proper depth so as the heat in the houses rises into attic and all vents are blocked the heat transfers to roof and melts snow causing ice dams if you live in a snow climate. 8) did you have plans for an air to air exchanger? add another $3k to $5k. if you dont make up air will be a problem and you be living in your own atmospheric waste climate.. and also may have drafting and spillage problems with gas appliances. And if a barametric damper is recommended to open to allow make up air in the dead of winter then what the hell did you spend all that money for for spray foam? 8)must be covered with ignition barriers.. OK you see some of the cons??? ive seen these issues first hand!!! It may seem like I dont like foam but I Really DO!!! But like everything in construction each material has a purpose and should be installed in a manner to offer the most comfortability, protection, efficiency, and cost effectiveness!! This is how you do that!! 1) Foam Seal all windows and doors with a window/door foam 2) use one part closed cell foam (about 100$ for a 16lb canister)and apply a bead of foam down all studs at exterior sheathing and all horizontal sheathing joints. this will make cavities air tight, You cant blow through ply wood. do the same for the ringjoist and basment bandjoist. 3) caulk all wall plates to floor and all stud jacks and gaps around headers and any place that foam cannot be used because of drywall interference 4) insulate with high density fiberglass r-15 or r-21..do the math these R values = closed cell r values..keep in mind they will only do nominal fills. if they do complete cavity fills with closed cell get your bank routing number ready!!! .90 per inch per sq ft. as average installed for closed cell. so $3.15 for 2 x 4 and $4.95 for 2 x 6 plus extra for shaving. 5) install a vapor barrier - 2 or 4 mil poly (against code for closed cell) 6) eave block, install bubble wrap at flat ceiling eaves to force ventillation past the ceiling insulation without windwashing. 7) increase ceiling r value to r-49 or whatever your heart desires because r-100(unnecessary) is going to be pocket change compared to foam. 8) foam all penetrations from basement to living space and to attic (light fixtures etc..) This method will perform the same as spray foam for 20% of the cost, and protect the structure the way it should with vapor barriers and so on.. (Thats from Blower Door Tests) dont forget about make up air.. but you just saved enough $ to get a free air exchanger!! and a new 65" plasma tv and a surround sound system and a fireplace and maybe new appliances!!! DONT BE TRICKED BY WHAT YOU SEE ON TV OR WHAT PEOPLE SAY... R VALUE = R VALUE IT DOESNT MATTER WHAT MATERIAL YOU USE JUST STOP AIR INFILTRATION AND YOUR SET!!! AND IF YOU STIL LIKE FOAM THAT MUCH PUT IT ON THE OUTSIDE OF HOUSE TO CREATE A THERMAL BREAK(1/2" DOW BLUE BOARD NO TYVEK NEEDED) OR ON INTERIOR CEILINGS (1/2" DOW TUFF R BOARD) BEFORE DRYWALL FOR THE SAME AFFECT. and its still cheaper than spray foam!!...See MoreCooking sprays
Comments (24)I have tried the silcone muffin pans. The muffins came out easily and did not stick. I just didn't like them. I can't really say why - but I guess I have had the paper on them all my life, and it must be that way, lol!! The Martha Stewart brand of cupcake liners from K-Mart are the best, but I don't know if they have them any more. The last time I checked they were out, and it looked like they weren't restocking her items. Check out the link to the Confectionery House - they have some really neat colored cupcake papers - even dark brown! Here is a link that might be useful: Confectionery House...See MoreLars
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