I have had Lauzon engineered flooring (red oak natural - select & better) for about 5 years. If my memory serves me well, about $6.50 may be the ballpark figure. Depends on the type of wood you choose, width, etc. The online company we ordered from wasn't the greatest, but everything turned out well in the end. In hind sight, I wished we had ordered from Hosking Hardwood which would not have been that much more in cost. In our case it was penny wise pound foolish. Dh & I installed ourselves (glued down). Lauzon boards are milled so perfectly and we hardly had any waste (no "bad" boards). Good luck with your search and best wishes in your new home!

Your being fed a bunch of bull!! If the flooring read 27% you would see visable standing water on it. When oak gets to 24% it is totally saturated and cannot hold anymore water!!!! Delamination is a manufacturing defect. No if's, and's, or but's about it!!! Here is the standard. Nothing inside your home, besides a flood completely submerging the flooring, will come close to the failure test. The American National Standard for Engineered Wood Flooring, ANSI/HPVA EF 2002 3.5 Bond Line All adjacent surfaces of each ply shall be uniformly and securely bonded. The flooring shall conform to the requirements of the bond test described in 4.2 3.7 Construction The flooring pieces shall be of balanced construction, which means that they are free from warp or twist to the extent that they do not interfere with the installation or negatively affect the intended use of the product. The purpose of this requirement is to provide a product which will perform satisfactorily over the typical range of humidity and temperature in an indoor environment, when installed according to the instructions of the manufacturer. Any construction with an even or odd number of plies, and any combination of thicknesses and shrinkage characteristics that meets the requirement for balanced construction is permitted. No two adjacent plies shall have coinciding openings greater than 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) 4.2 Bond Line Test Two test specimens, 50.8 mm (2 inches) wide by 127 mm (5 inches) along the grain, shall be cut from each flooring sample tested. The specimens shall be cut from opposite sides of the flooring after all tongue and groove portions have been removed. The specimens shall be submerged in water at 24 C+-3C (75 F +-5F) for 4 hours, and then dried at a temperature between 49 and 52 C (120 and 125 F) for 19 hours, with sufficient air circulation to lower the moisture content (based on oven-dry weight) of the specimens to a maximum of 8 percent. This cycle shall be repeated until all specimens fail or until thr ee cycles have been completed, whichever occurs first. The flooring shall be considered as failing when any single delamination between two plies of either specimen is greater than 50.8 mm (2 inches) in continuous length, over 6.4 mm (1/4 inch) in depth at any pint, and 0.08 mm (.003 inch) in width as determined by a feeler gauge 0.08 mm (0.003 inches) thick and 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) wide. Specimens shall be examined for delamination at the end of each cycle. Delamination due to tape at joints or inner plies or defects allowed by the grade shall be disregarded. For performing the bond line test, the flooring samples shall be selected in multiples of ten in order to provide for a sufficient number of specimens (two specimens per sample) to which the acceptance levels are applied. Ninety-five percent of test specimens shall pass the first cycle, and eighty- five percent of test specimens shall pass the third cycle.

Do you know if you're floor is an engineered? or is it solid? If its solid you will be able to sand it multiple times if done by a professional. If its engineered you may get more than one sanding out of it, once again by a professional. The DIY mop n shine you get at the supermarket will just make a mess and wont live up to your expectations. Not to mention it will just create a load of other problems down the line. To fix the "dull" areas correctly, you will need to get a professional out to see if a Buff n Coat is an option. maybe even try a test spot to see if the finish will adhere properly. The reason for the professional is because if an inexperience DIY attempts to apply finish on an unprepared floor, the finish will just peel away and then thats a headache no one wants to deal with. as far as mr.sandless, forget you ever heard that name. Waste of money and time.

The UV cured oil finishes are tougher with a longer lasting finish (initial finish) than a hardwax oil finished floor. The first maintenance can be as far away as 4 years. The REAL fun (on the cleaning/maintenance side of things) is the HEAVY texture of the wire brush finish. One Houzzer SPECIFICALLY asked for a 'no maintenance floor'. She wanted the floor to clean up 'like a dream'. She was SOLD a WHITE wire brushed oak floor (poly finish). Inside of a week she was pulling her hair out and crying. The wire brush finish GRABS all the dirt and holds it. This is a natural occurrence when looked at from a SCIENTIFIC point of view. The wire brush creates MILLIONS of grooves. They are small to be sure...but each groove DOUBLES or even TRIPLES the surface area of the floors. That surface area GRABS dirt and dust particles at the micro-level and never let go. Ever. You can clean and wipe and clean and wipe for DAYS in the same spot and NEVER get it clean. No I am not kidding you. If you want gray flooring, then go for it. If you want oiled or UV cured oil finish, then go for it. If you want EASY MAINTENANCE then STAY AWAY from the wire brushed finish. It is a cleaning nightmare. Stick with flat, smooth finishes. They are MUCH easier to keep happy.