I have vinyl plank with huge dogs in my walk out basement where they have free access to a large dog run it has been in for 11 yrs and still looks awesome. We have a laminate on our main floor that looks like slate and has also stood up to the brats for 11 yrs there is no way wood could have handled all that abuse. IMO laminate or vinyl plank in good condition is better than scratched up wood floor that would have to be refinished before sale. We now have a great pyrenees as our 2 old dogs have passed away and he really is rough on floors , no wood could possibly stand up to him.The pic is the laminate floor and the old dogs

I would not use wood look anything next to real wood.Choose a nice simple porcelain tile that works with the decor in the PR I love that pwder rooms can have quite a different design from other spaces and i alwys like to have a bit of theater in them

Leather is the most 'recognizable' pattern for cork (other than the ground up cork board look). When it is laid it looks like hardwood flooring using 'shorts'. It has a bit of a brick look to it. Ignore the 'pink' in the samples. The pink is the very first colour to fade away. It takes a few months for the pink to disappear but once it is gone the cork (Leather and Logan) will look more like oak in tone (yellowish with some hints of green and some gray). It is a 'directional pattern' which means it has a 'linear' sense to it. The Logan is the most expensive cork pattern you can get. The slices of pattern are random. They are hand cut and hand laid. It takes *roughly an hour for 1 person to arrange 10sf of the pattern. It is STUNNING. It looks more like stone. It is random...did I mention the pattern is random? Leather and Logan can have the extra 2 coats of the Loba 2K Supra AT = super tough. The Latte is a FANTASTICLY tough finish. It has the polypropylene finish on it. This is the 'non-vinyl' product Cancork sells. It is tough....right after that it is SUPER TOUGH. And then for good measure, it is TOUGH!!! For a Rental property, the Latte is a product I would recommend. It does NOT need the Loba product. That means you save $1.50/sf RIGHT AWAY. It can handle 3mm or 6mm cork underlay. If you are looking for temperature control, then I like the 6mm underneath...but CHECK your door heights, etc. All you need to do is take your floor sample and the underlay sample they sent you (their supposed to do that...sigh) and see if it 'slips' underneath the doors in your home. It is that simple. I hope that helps... As for the Tacoma...I'm guessing you are looking at KILOGRAMS (700 kg) as your weight limit = 1540 lbs. The weight of a standard skid of cork flooring = 1000sf (ish...depends on the product) = *roughly 2000 lbs. And the skid sizes are PERFECT to fit between the wheel wells of a truck bed. I've watched this stuff get loaded into pick-up trucks for 6+ years. A forklift operator can drop that baby into your truck (so long as you do NOT have a 'cap-it') and off you go. If you only have a short way to go, the 2000 lbs won't be much of a problem...I just wouldn't do a trip to Bella Coola with it. ;-)

Sorry but the LVP/LVT or even SPC/WPC product needs REALLY FLAT! Oh...no. The wobbly subfloor = DEATH to vinyl click ANYTHING. Why? Because the click edges are VERY THIN. Any bit of height variation will cause EXTREME stress on the click edges. Any stress on those thin, brittle, finicky, nasty edges and you LOSE the floor's integrity. And you lose warranty. And....and....and. I'm in Vancouver BC, so the extra $5K for subfloor work (by pulling the old floor, etc) doesn't even phase me. Cost of labour in Canada runs (roughly) $50/hour in the building industry. The sheet plywood is STAGGERING right now. Unless you purchase DIRECT from a mill (in small town Canada, that's ENTIRELY possible) you are looking at $3/sf for plywood alone. A tile install normally runs (all-in...tile+labour+materials) $18/sf and up...with prep being the extra (which is why he's saying DOUBLE the cost). Sorry but the 'lay it right over' the old wobbly floor is NOT correct. Everyone will tell you, "You can float it over anything," but they FAIL to mention the old floor MUST BE LEVELED and with a flatness rating that is ACCEPTABLE to the flooring manufacturer. I'd be happier with a STURDY laminate (except this is in a wet area) or an engineered hardwood (watch out for the clash) over vinyl being floated over wonky. Vinyl CANNOT HANDLE the floor height variances. The edges are too fragile, too brittle and too easily damaged just by standing on them over that wonkiness. Do the work. Pay the price and get the correct floor. If not, then just throw down any old 'King of Floors $0.99/sf vinyl' and be happy if you get 10 years out of it. You will replace it by then anyway, and you can pay for the subfloor work at that time...if you need to cap your costs today....but you WILL pay for it tomorrow. It's your call.