My opinion, depends on the material the transition piece is made of. If its wood, go with the wood color, if its tile, then do the tile color

We have a schluter edge. I like it. Otherwise I'd use a hardwood transition piece.

Not tile, vinyl, but you get the idea!

Thanks for the input. I have porcelain tiles and dark maple hardwood floors [darker than the above pics] The tiled floor will be higher than the wood floors, so we were recommended to do a transition piece either marble or quartz. We are liking the idea of quartz, since it is more durable than the marble. I would post a picture, but all I have is dry pack on the floor, and the wood floors are all covered up. Ideally we would want the floors to be like the first picture but unfortunately won't be the case. There will be 5 areas where this transition piece will be. The largest space is 60 inchesX6 inches

I would use scrap pieces of the floor tile to create a custom threshold. Use a Schluter profile so tile is not against wood. You could taper this if the height variation is not extreme. An 1/8" high profile above the wood floor will not be noticed. Just a thought.

Ohhh, that looks really good! Yes I remember the tiler saying he was going to taper off the transition piece. My tiles are 32x32 with 1/32 spacing {grout line], I wonder if this look will work. I will propose it to him tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas.

32"x32" with a 1/32" grout spacing....

WOW - good luck with that. I hope the tiles are flawless and the floor is perfect. That is really really tight

That is a tough installation! We would love to see photo's of the process and completion.

Great discussion. Everyone.

We always recommend to use no transition moldings anywhere possible to connect with tiles and carpet from wood. Of course it has to be a nail or glue down installation. See attached top picture with floor board as transition, the bottom picture with tipping tile pieces as transition. We hate to see overlap moldings all over an install.

How much thicker is the tile over the wood? Is there an actual door or just an opening or cased opening?

Without knowing the exact details, my general preference would be for a piece of wood that was flush with the top of the tile that would sit on the wood and reduce down to the wood. This would be easy to do and leave expansion space.

The thickness varies depending on the area. Some places is are as high as 1/4 inch. Existing tile flooring is dug up and re leveled with dry pack. We made the mistake several years ago to replace the carpet with hardwood first, and we weren't made aware that they could of raised the wood floor to the tiles at that time. The hardwood people just put little strips of wood where the tiles where higher than the wood as transitions. They basically just nailed the thing to the sub floor. And we had gotten 5 quotes too! But didn't research on the internet. When we were getting quotes to replace the tiles, everyone is telling us we should of done tile first! Anyways..... There is 3 areas with a door, 2 (60inches x 3) pieces will be to an entrance to a sunken room, 1 piece will be at the end of the service stairs, and the largest piece which I quoted wrong earlier is actually 81 inches x 3 1/2 and goes to the living room. The wood floors in the living room already has the wood transition piece like Unique Wood Floor's pic, where one piece of the wood is across all the other pieces. The space I'm retiling is the main foyer which connects to all the rooms, continues into the kitchen and eat in area, powder room, laundry area, service stairs, and the entrance to the garage. The space is 700sq. Standing from the entrance,I will be able to see 4 transition pieces. The tillers was telling me that he can make the transition pieces like Creative tile eastern pics, but the transition for the sunken living room and the staircase will still have to be a solid finished piece because I will be able to see the sides. If he cuts the tile, I can see it's unfinished. So I would have quartz pieces in some areas and the custom tile threshold in others. I would rather have one uniformed look. I will try to take some pics, but everything is a mess, and I need to find my camera too! I will ask the tiler if he's planning to use the Schluter Dilex . Thanks for all the advice everyone! This tiler is highly recommended. Plus he said if you don't like it don't pay me! We have not paid him a penny. And I feel kinda bad about it too.

If you have an installer that you trust and is capable of the 32"x32" - 1/32" grout joint installation. I would place a good amount of trust in his or hers advise. You know what look you want. Allow your installer to achieve it for you. Your vision is the professionals goal. Well that and getting paid:) Photo's please.

Here's a pic of the kitchen and eat in area. The back of the area in the kitchen is grouted. We asked him to grout that area cause the cabinet makers are coming on Monday. Tiler is very meticulous. He checks each tile to make sure it's not bowing before he installs it. Then he goes over all the seams with his fingers and checks with the leveler. If it's not good, he rips it out and finds another piece. Every morning he double checks to make sure if the tiles are good. Once he found a small chip that he missed installed the day earlier. Luckily it was at the edge, so he just popped it back up and replaced it. We are very happy with him. I'll post a pic of the transition pieces when they are in. I went with Cesarstone in cinder to match the tiles. Thanks again for everyone's advice and info.

Looking Good! Thanks for the pic's

Creative Tile Eastern CT and akl_vdb… Is the schluter schiene exactly the same height as the wood floor?

Reason I ask is I'm using 3/8" tile (6x24) add enough thinset under it and this forces me to use the 1/2" schiene. So now that will be about 1/8" higher than the wood.

Won't the aluminum bend as it's being walked on causing grout cracking or tile breaking? Thanks in advance.

1/8" difference will not be noticeable. I often cut up scraps from the floor tile to create a mosaic threshold accent and taper it to be flush with the wood. If your meeting a large area of wood and need to allow for expansion use the Schluter Dilex BWA

Thanks- I installed the 1/2 inch schiene and you are right- barely noticeable-visually and when stepping on it. Thanks for the reply !