I second what frozen said. My experience in South Floria (sub-tropical climate, with heavy summer rains) has been that fighting rust is a loosing battle on all my figs. I have lsu purple, but its located at a different property, 300 miles north of me in a temperate climate. That area has no rust fungus problem due to cold winters. I have a few air layers cooking on that lsu purple and will be trying it in South Florida next year. My suggestion is two fold, 1 - get a fig variety that has a heavy breba crop and a closed eye to keep bugs out, that will ripen during the dry season, you will at east enjoy some figs from your tree before the rains come and the rust problem explodes. You can consider the main crop a total loss due to rust and falling leaves. Desert King variety would be a good option. 2 - Remove your fig and plant a mango tree.. Ben

Please see my post- "oops here's a bigger photo" Thanks.

I have been growing (or attempting to grow) tomatoes in Tucson for many years now. My philosophy with tomatoes is grow sandwich sized tomatoes of good taste and heavy production on disease/heat resistant plants. I have tried Super Souix, Porter, and others with minimal success. The problem tends to be that the plants get very big without much fruit set before or after the main heat of the season. My experience has been that the bulk of my food production from tomatoes has been from varieties that are referred to as semi-determinate (tomato varieties that are determinate in size, but indeterminate in fruit production). The best tomato I have grown in this class has been the F1 Celebrity. It is very easy to come by and does very well with only a little west-side shade after the month of May. 6-12 of these plants will feed a family of 4-6 with tomato sandwiches all through the summer. (As a note I do not use shade cloth and plant my tomatoes FAR from structures such as houses or walls that radiate heat at night). Many heirloom and other open pollinated varieties of tomatoes can produce very nice foliage here in the desert but they often fail to produce any significant amount of fruit. After trialing multiple open-pollinated tomato varieties each year, the best open-pollinated variety I have ever grown that tolerates the heat has been Siletz (see the link below). This variety is parthenocarpic, so it will produce virgin fruit through the summer, then, from my experience, you will be lucky if you can get some seeds from the plant in the fall. (= Neptune is also another good variety but it is a classic determinate, meaning it produces only one crop before its demise. No matter what tomato I grow, the biggest key to growing tomatoes in a desert climate is to put them in the ground or have some kind of insulated container with a water reservoir. Once the plants are established you must wean yourself from the tendency to water every day. Gardeners who water (at most) once every 3 days have much more success than those who water every day. Though this is initially counter-intuitive, flood irrigating or watering for 2+ hours on a drip hose every 3 days enables the roots of the tomatoes to develop 18-24 inches below the surface of the ground where they are well insulated from the scorching summer heat. The main benefit from watering occasionally comes in less plant stress and consequently, much less disease and pest problems. If you are new to this area you might also note some of the considerations to growing tomatoes in the following blog post: http://scientificgardener.blogspot.com/2012/01/few-tips-for-growing-tomatoes-tucson.html Here is a link that might be useful: Siletz tomato trial

Pink Rose, I know Cool Roses sells a wider variety of roses on their website. The ones on their site is ones that they ship. If there is a certain rose that you are looking for, I would at least suggest calling and asking if they have it. Also, Geoff will do custom grafts. I second SoFl that you should call them; they will bring things to the sale in Orlando. SoFl I love my Nahema and Dames De Chennonceau! They are doing great. Though, I tried to rescue a Nahema that someone else shovel pruned and left by the side of the road. It did not make it. I also lost one that I purchased that was in my "rose pond". I think the roots don't like it if you try and move it. I am glad to know that Edenmy eye on that one. Duchess De Brabant is beautiful, but hated my yard. I think it puts down really deep roots, because it died back in wet time of the year, even though it was not in the pond. Quietness, does well on own root. I dont think it likes to be sprayed though, but it seems to be tough without it.