Some term definitions to start. The hole for the door is called a rough opening(RO). That hole is made by installing king studs(which span floor to ceiling) and jack studs(which span floor to the top of the rough opening) and are attached to the header(top of the opening). See the link I inserted. Those chips(called shim packs) are actually the shims used to install a door frame in a rough opening to the jack studs and header and are the usual procedure. Although there are not enough of them in the pictures(unless you have already removed some). On a door like that(with 3 hinges) there should be shims at each hinge and one pack approximately centered between the hinges(5 shim packs total). And similar placings on the latch side. There seems to be a bit more to this situation. What is the line on the right side of the wall? Is that where the old trim stopped? Is the line old caulk? If I were fixing that, I would remove the sheet rock at least as far as one stud to the right of the stud forming the rough opening(called a jack stud) and replace that sheet rock to make a smooth section of the wall. I'll bet the left side is the hinge side and was situated as such for the door to open against a wall on the left. That is pretty normal design.It is also fairly normal for the left side trim to be more narrow, since it is usually blocked by the open door. You will probably need to move the entire rough opening to get the 4" you want. An experienced carpenter/handy person can do that fairly easily. It is also a DIY project for someone willing to learn. There is nothing load bearing involved, so simply adding studs to the left side(actually nailing two to the existing left hand jack stud) and removing the jack and king studs on the right (and the header) to install a new jack/king stud and header for the new RO. That will, however mean removing the dry wall on both sides of the walls and replacing with new. That is a lot of work and expense to add 2" however.

Yeah, swap the fridge and pantry. Better work flow. As said, we take food out of the fridge and bring it to the sink to rinse and clean it. Then we prep between sink and cooktop and the bring the food to the cooktop to cook it. With the fridge where you have it now, you're crossing the cooking zone to the sink. It's much easier when everything is in a "row" so you practically don't have to carry it.

Michele, for the closet, I had an old Frazee paint chip color wheel and selected the color Mythic Fire,7796N. If you are going to try this project, you should probably get a color wheel and find the best undertone match for the wood you want to match, or take a sample of the wood to the paint store to look at chips if you don't have a wheel. What matched for my stained cherry wood may not be the best match for your wood or stain color. Good luck!

Thanks—I remembered the term after I posted. It’s not the master, but I’m less worried about the difference than the lower ceiling and lack of crown molding making the room less finished. Do you think the picture rail will lower the ceiling? I also got a suggestion of beams (which we like) or a coffered ceiling (which we generally don’t), but have the same concern about looking lower. But I’m starting to think that’s not a real problem—many rooms with beams are 8’ or below. Thoughts?