How to add crown moulding to existing crown on built ins?

last year

My husband and I want to add crown moulding to our formal living room. We are fairly confident we can handle the project but our only area of concern is where the new moulding will meet existing moulding on our built ins. We really do not want to remove the existing moulding and have found identical moulding so it will be the same width where it meets. Any tips or ideas? I’ve added pictures where they will meet

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Comments (7)

PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
last year
Waht is the issue if it matches I do notunderstand the problem maybe take a pic from futher back so we can see what the issue is. I have to say I do not like adding crown to only one space in a home .
PRO
PPF.
last year
What's the problem?
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Comments (8)
First, buy one of the books available at home improvement stores that covers crown molding installation. That book will answer most of your questions. Second, there is a big difference between installing stained and painted molding. Mistakes can be covered when painted. Not so with stained. third, coping is done to eliminate the necessity to fill an open or ill fitting joint. Coping also minimized the gaps from seasonal wood movement due to humidity and moisture. That means if you have a gap in a coped joint, it is done improperly. The joint you described about joining two pieces in a run is called a 'scarf' joint. To hide that joint, there are a few tricks. First, there are definitions. Open and Closed sections of the scarf. Open is when you can see the material of the crown and the angle. Closed is where only the profile of the crown is visible. To help hide the scarf, always create the joint so the closed end is overlapping the open end as the eye sees the joint. That allows the eye to look past the line of the joint instead of looking into the joint. Now, the problem with your miter saw and the scarf joints. To minimize that problem, simply plan the cuts. Set the saw for a cut. To make the matching miter, simply set the stock on the side opposite the first cut---do not change the saw. You can make those cuts with the stock flat on the table(tilting the saw to 45 degrees) or standing up(if the saw is a 12" blade model with the saw swiveled to 45 degrees).
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A cabinet maker might go to all of the trouble to sand and restain dinged pieces if he's the one who built the cabinets, but there is no way your average cabinet installer would ever do that. No one is as careful as a homeowner who has all the time in the world to be very careful with their own stuff. A paid installer who has another job to move onto quickly will remove the moldings, yes, but if you want the dings to end up on the molding rather than the cabinets, you'd better plan on reordering all of the molding. Cabinets are not like off the rack clothing that you can take back to Macy's and return if you don't like it. If you change your mind after you sign off on the design, purchase and install the cabinets, then anything different will cost you. Installation is the last step in the chain and it constitutes complete acceptance of the already approved design. This is yet another reason why it's very important to be there when your cabinets are installed. If the OP had been there when the first piece of crown went up and didn't like it, it would have been an easy matter to put that on hold, order the solid stock, pay a bit extra to the installer, and reschedule him for just the crown. In a cheap cabinet line and a cheap labor market, the changes discussed would be $1100-$1200. In a medium high cabinet line in an expensive labor market, you could be talking 4-5K. So, I'd say that 2K is on the low side for the changes. A good compromise for all concerns would be Kompy's suggestion that the OP pay the actual costs. However, don't think that it will magically save you hundreds of dollars. Cabinet markups aren't as high as most people seem to think!
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Comments (3)
A local lumber yard that mills wood will likely be able to match it for you. We ordered the crown above our cabinets from the cabinet company and the rest that goes around our family room (meets up with the cabinets) was sourced locally that way.
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Option B is less work than Option A and would probably be cozier. Leave the lower part of the walls white and it won't be too dark. {Now some will tell you that the darker color has to be on the bottom for the room to be "grounded", but you have permission not to agree with that.] What about option C: painting the back of the bookcase only with the navy? Would that help? If you do go with Option C, I would paint panels and insert them in the bookcase (leaving the original back the color it is now). If you ever wanted a new color, you could just remove the panels and repaint them. Plus it is a great way to test the idea without committing to paint on the built-in. No matter what you do, I think the crown needs to all be the same color throughout the room.
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PRO
HALLETT & Co.
last year
I think maybe you meant to type you could not find matching crown? Regardless trim guys can get two different crown to meet seamlessly in an inside corner- it will take some finagling but cabinet crown in kitchens is often different from house crown. That said, why not replace all at once?
haylo33
Original Author
last year
I thought when 2 pieces of crown meet they are cut so the pieces fit together nicely (such as a scarf joint). The crown on the built ins is only 6 months old and I’m afraid we will damage the new cabinets taking it off.
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
last year
Lets say you want cove moulding in the rest of the room, the cove moulding is simply coped to match the profile of the existing crown. Fussy but is done all the time.
PRO
PPF.
last year
Link to some videos to get you started. And it helps -- you and others, to learn the lingo, the vocabulary, when you are starting an unfamiliar project.

https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/04/03/installing-crown-molding/
MongoCT
last year
Since you have crown identical to your existing, and the existing runs right into the adjacent wall, do a youtube search for "coping crown inside corners".

Simplistically, you'll cut the crown at an inside 45 degree angle. Then use a coping saw to cut a slight back cut right right along the cut line made when you did the 45. The coped edge of the new crown will butt right into the profile of the existing crown as long as they have the same profile.

If you're not familiar with the basics of cutting crown, do a search for "cutting crown upside down and backwards".

You can miter the outside corners and miter or cope the inside corners. Coping inside corners works well if the inside corner angle is slightly off of a perfect 90 degrees.

If your new crown has a different profile, you can scribe the end of the new crown to fit the profile of the existing crown.

Enjoy!

How to add crown moulding to existing crown on built ins?

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Patricia Colwell Consulting

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HALLETT & Co.

haylo33
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How to add crown moulding to existing crown on built ins?

Comments (7)

Patricia Colwell Consulting

PPF.

Related Discussions

HALLETT & Co.

haylo33Original Author

HALLETT & Co.

PPF.

MongoCT

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

haylo33
Original Author