db3512 - I have just recently (last 12 months) finished removing my fireplace. It was a double sided version of yours. 6 feet wide and 5 feet thick. It was not an easy task! First, this is a best guess. The brick from about the top of the flue on up the ceiling will likely be backed by framing and a header; no drywall. Below that it will likely be part of the firebox structure. You could conceivably remove it with a lot of work and mess. A 5-7lb sledge works best to just splinter the brick. Get the one with a wedge shaped end. It breaks the brick better. The brick breaks easier than the mortar so don't waste your time trying to chip at the motar. Once the upper brick is out, the mortar generally comes out pretty easily. I would also wait until spring as your heat will go right out the new hole you have created. If you can, get into your attic and look down along the chimney to validate. I could see the entire back side of the brick walls down to the firebox. About widening your firebox, in short sure if you have enough money you can do anything. Not to be flip but if you want to enlarge your firebox, you are looking at tearing out your fireplace and rebuilding it. Again that assumes it is a real fireplace and not a brick façade of some sort. Good Luck!!

It sounds very much like cement board, aka wonder board or durock. It's usually used as an underlayment for tile floors, but it's not limited to that. I think a layer of cement board, covered with some kind of fireproof tile or brick veneer might be your answer. Ask a contractor or building inspector, or go to a local fireplace shop and pick their brains. Also, be aware that the building code restrictions on fireplaces in mobile homes tend to be stricter than the ones for stick-built homes.

I have the same question. The problem is we have an outdoor covered walkway connecting our garage to our house and it has 4 hanging coach lamp pendant lights that were installed 30 years ago when we build the garage. I would hate to have to replace 4 light fixtures because I have one broken pane of beveled glass. And this model, while classic, is similar, but not identical to ones made today. I think the answer must be to go to a local glass company to have a replacement made, as I am coming up empty on trying to find ready made ones.

The Installation Guidecontains a section labeled, Panel Adjustment on page 15. The text mentions "in-and-out adjustments" and the diagram shows an in-and-out cam. I assume that the the "in-and-out adjustment" changes the distance between the panel and the door. Perhaps the panel needs to be moved closer to the door to eliminate any gap and prevent the flexing that you feel when you wipe it. The stainless steel panel is described on page 12. I assume that you installed the 3/4" interior panel described.