Is there a 2-sided removable tape that won't peel paint from drywall?
spammie
last year
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spammie
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Price of hanging and taping drywall
Comments (68)So ive been in the trade since I was 14 hanging on weekends and after school ( family ) im now 33 and have been full time since highs school, I have over 15 years of solid exp as a piece worker, hanging and finish, seeing someone say if they can hang 70 sheets in a week they are happy makes me wonder if they really know how much money they could make if they learned how to "piece work"??!!.... my brother and I charge $25 per sheet for a basic house with 8 ft cielings, if its a house with more detail we could charge up to $35 per sheet, that's just labor, if we supply material its anywhere from $50 up to $70....the location plays a factor also....houses on the coast tend to be a higher price....anyways say we have a house that's 150 sheets ( 12 foot sheets ALWAYS ) we hang it in 2 days and tape, finish, sand in 5 days.... hanging is always faster money cause your only doing it once! so say we are charging 25 we split it in half 12.50 to hang 12.50 to tape...so that's $1,875 we split 50 50 that we made in 2 days.... we always get a check after hanging then again after finish....and most of our contractors are right there to pay when the last screw is in then when the dust hits the floor......if we are charging 35 we would take 15 to hang 20 to tape....we also do commercial work when we want a break from houses....and that's through another bigger drywall company.... but you can make a lot more piece working commercial stand ups....we mostly tape when it comes to that but we can do anywhere from 350 - 500 sheets a week 10' stand ups, but since its through a different company and not for our own we may get 12-14 a sheet.... but still 350 sheets a week at 12 is a 2,000$$ week!! ( its not always like that but it can be!!) and if your thinking well why doesn't every0ne do that then.... cause not just anyone can!! even guys that are good drywallers and do a great clean job and really know the skill doesn't mean they know to "flow" and hang 80 sheets a day or tape 400 a week.....and just an fyi, our work is by far top quality so no just because we run and go fast doesn't mean we "butch" anything!!.... its called pride and wanting to be the best at what you do!...See MoreI need help with taping plaster to drywall & prep to paint.
Comments (5)First you need to cover the 2 hole. You need to attach the replacement piece of drywall on the big hole to something solid before mudding and taping it. 2 choices are to open up the hole larger until you have some wood to attach it to or improvise! My favorite way to improvise is to cut 1 or two thin boards about 2-3 inches wider than the narrow width of the hole. Stick it up the hole the long way and rotate it so it is resting on top of the hole with about an inch on either side. Hang on to the board in the middle through the hole and put two screws up through the ceiling on either side of the hole to hold the little board in place. Screw your new piece dry wall into the little board(s) you put up there. Tape and mud. Can't tell how big the little hole I but I would probably jut dry to put a piece of mesh tape over it and mud. If it sags you might need to put something up there to back up that patch too or purchase a firmer patch to go over it. No need to prime anything until you get all your mudding and sanding done. Use a putty knife and scrape as much loose paint away as possible. I would do little to no sanding of the paint edges as you are sanding paint with lead. Just skim coat everything with mud. Patch, tape your corners, mud everything (couple thin coats) and sand. Then prime and paint. Your joint compound will be perfect for all. Wear a dust mask when you sand....See MorePriming Drywall before Mud and Tape
Comments (32)Again, let me remind vhehn that this was not my idea, it was my drywaller and painter who came to me for doing it. And when it comes to how to build a home, I don't rely on "that's how I've built them for 30 years" mentality, I go to the Building Science Corp that tests these new methods. I've read the manufacturer's instructions on every product we've used, including engineered I-Joist and the spray foam MSDS sheets. I know more about the products the "pros" use than they do. jmagill brought up my only concern, cost. This isn't costing me any more than not doing it. The painter believes it's worth his time and the extra money for primer to do this so his end product is better, and he proves it by not charging more for doing it. It took one of his crew one morning of time and a few buckets of primer. I don't know if the walls will be smoother or not, but I'll know if the final product is good or bad in a couple months. I never had a concern about the mud not sticking or bubbling or stuff like that. If this does result in a smoother finish, I wondered why I hadn't heard of it before, here or on another forum or TV show. That was my intent of the post....See Moredrywall tape questions
Comments (12)I don't know if this will help or not, but the best advice I ever got from a professional finisher (Curly, I think they called him) was that it's all in the angle of the knife. At the time I didn't understand what he was talking about, but as I got more experienced I came to realize that getting the right knife angle on each swipe is the main difference between a fast, smooth job and and slow, bumpy job. I'm not talking about an angle you measure with a protractor, rather the angle you "feel" is right based on how the material responds. Curly also emphasized the importance of a sharp edge to your knife, way sharper than comes with a new knife. He also pointed out that the 12" knife is slightly bowed, and for feathering it's best to keep that concave side up as you spread. Best of luck!...See Morespammie
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