we just had our wooden countertop delivered. I am very glad we broke up the granite with wood, and we placed the wood on the island for the very same reason vickimp stated- it is warmer. Use a good sealer, and it should be no problem. We do have an induction in the island and bar sink- waterlox is what we are using to seal the wood.

Thanks for the responses. Rhome, I agree with you and I have trouble imagining what it would look like when done. It might look good, but it might also like it doesn't fit. The way it's laid out, the big upper corner cabinet with the 2 smaller cabinets attached becomes one of the focal points of the kitchen. One challenge that they face is that the 2 smaller cabinets are different sizes, which is not always apparent, depending on where you stand in the kitchen. Because the kitchen is big, your eye tricks you into thinking that the cabinets are the same size. Creekylis, I like the idea of having different counter heights, probably because I am tall and it hurts my back to lean over and work at the shorter surfaces. Not sure that they will go for that idea since all the base cabinets are in already and my friend was complaining about the cost of everything while I was there. The small piece of granite doesn't show the extent of the movement that the slabs have. I should have taken a picture while we were at the granite yard. It's beautiful and has a lot of movement. The slabs on hold are "book-matched", if that means anything to anyone. Does anyone have pictures of long stretches of granite with movement that has seams that would be willing to share a picture of the way the seams look? BTW, vjrnts, thanks for the pix of your butcher block. I've had a hard time finding pictures that focus on the granite-wood transition areas. Any other ideas (aside from wood) that they could consider to break up the runs of granite? The granite yard is scheduled to template next week. I've forwarded this link to my friend hoping he will forward it to his SO, but not sure that she will get it (they only have dial-up and are not big computer users). I'll print it all out and overnight it to her if I have to. Thanks again for your thoughts. Dan

We are in the middle of new $1K makeover of our kitchen, and are installing laminate countertops in Basalt slate and a large black topmount Blanco sink. Our new backsplash will be faux aged-copper tin ceiling panels. While I can't speak to mixing wood and dark countertops, I have oak cabinets and lots and lots of wood, and we love the look. I have a few pics you can see now, and will try and post more tonight if you want to see the installed sink. Here is a link that might be useful: $1K kitchen makeover

Both are excellent choices, so why not mix and match. Use tile for the hard use spaces and a little butcher block for an accent. Butcher block will require maintenance, tile almost none. If you use butcher block around a sink, prepare for a lot of maintenance. We use ceramic tile for almost all of our premium kitchens since the invention of urethane grouts (Epoxy also works, but is much more expensive). Here are the tricks: - Use a large format tile. - Use a thin grout line -- rectified tile (tile that has been cut after firing to an exact size) will permit a 1/16th inch grout line. But wider lines up to 3/16" without the more expensive rectified work perfectly well -Use urethane grout. -Install over a cement board backer -Use a tile-in style of sink (available from Kohler, among others) -You do not need porcelain tile. Much less expensive semi-vitreous tile will work just as well. Butcher block requires initial sealing, and then resealing about every 3 months -- more in heavy use areas. There are two kinds of butcher block - end grain (the true butcher block) and top grain (no cutting on these -- they're just decorative). Choose end grain if you have the option. For more information about the type of counter tops materials available and the pros and cons of each, see the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: New and Traditional Countertop Choices