You can see a lot of Rome in three days. I say three instead of two due to jetlag. I was also going to suggest the Vatican/Sistine Chapel. The Villa Borghese Gallery was near our hotel, and it is a Top 5 in my three weeks of traveling Europe. We went north, so I cannot offer more, but you will have so many memories of this trip with your son.

Oh,, my goodness, just sat down with my coffee and I'm excited to dive into all your ideas. Thankyou!

You are lucky that you will probably actually be able to *see* the Sistine Chapel, as opposed to being pushed through by a sea of tourists denser than the subway after a game. You may even be able to pause and soak it in!

In summer, the waits to get in can be 3 hours or more. We booked a private tour thru the museum to avoid that. That is prob not needed when you are going, but you may want to buy admission tickets on line in advance, as that is a different/shorter line.

We stayed at the Hotel Russe in Rome. Wonderful.

Another good way to see the Sistine Chapel, etc. is with a Context tour: https://www.contexttravel.com/. We've had great experiences with them in various cities: the guides are very knowledgeable (and can scale their presentations depending on how much you already know), and you get to skip the lines.

And another vote here for the Galleria Borghese, which houses some amazing Berninis, like his David, and his Apollo and Daphne. In person they are beyond extraordinary.

This has been SO helpful! Really helping me to get things on paper. As to the kinds of tourists we are: we both love the outdoors, so will find a way to fit in a hike/gorgeous walk for sure. Also really like authentic experiences things like "getting a gelato and tossing coins in the Trevi Fountain or an evening stroll around the Piazza Navona" as Elunia described. Galleria Borghese is now definitely on the list thanks to all the votes here. Definitely plan to maximize our time in general by pre-buying tickets to tours which bypass waiting in line. It was valuable to learn that Positano doesn't have a port, and I'm thinking now that we will definitely hunker down in Soorento, and then take a one-day trip to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, probably by private car with a guide. We'd also love to take a cooking class somewhere. Could be Rome or could be Naples.

I'm now thinking of returning home from Naples, rather than Rome. This would allow us to arrive in Rome, spend 3-ish days there, take the highspeed train to Naples, and immediately leave train station for Soorento (via private sedan). Then we could return to Naples for the last day and a half, without sucking up time to return to Rome just to fly home.

My dh and I were in Italy in Oct. 2019. I would also suggest about 3 days in Rome. We did the Colosseum/Roman Forum with a smallish tour(about 10 people) which was nice. At that time, the vatican was offering a Friday night tour which included a buffet dinner. The museum was less crowded in the evening. We had lunch in Trastevere, visited a couple of wine bars after dinner and walked all over the city during the day. Try to visit Campo de Fiori in the morning for the great farmers/flower market. We stayed in that neighborhood and found it central to everything we wanted to visit.

We took a private taxi(booked ahead of time) from the airport to our hotel. City bus from our hotel to the train station for our next leg(which was Florence). I highly recommend the trains for travel around Italy. Easy to book in advance. We did not visit Amalfi coast... we went to Cinque Terra. We flew back to the US from Venice.

Some sites I found were helpful for planning:

Rick Steves travel forum

Trip Advisor Rome forum

these are all great ideas. let me dwell a little and i can write my list of things to do and see in rome and pros and cons for each. (i still go back annually for work) also we stay in aventino if you like quiet neighborhoods so the hotel san pio (mid range) or hotel san anselmo (higher and so worth it). and also i was thinking one of the charms of the amalfi coast is seeing it from the water, which you cant do from the bus, obviously. we went there by train from naples to salerno then by boat to amalfi in april. it was lovely and still lemons on the trees and not yet full tourist season so still quiet.

There is a lot to pack in, in just 8 days, as you will lose some time to jetlag and transit. I too recommend flying out of Naples, if you can get a decent connection back home. 3 days sounds about right, depending on your priority for some religious and historical areas. I've been to Napoli/Amalfi twice and Rome about 4 or 5 times (we have a good friend that lives there, close to the Vatican City). .

I second the train to Naples and then on to Sorrento. Sorrento is not as charming as the other towns on the Amalfi Coast but the transit connections back to Pompeii (train, super easy from Sorrento) and via the ferry to Capri. That being said, I think they do not run down the Amalfi during the winter (but they do go to Capri). I'd consider a driver if you want to drive down to the other towns (the roads are very narrow and even with no traffic, southern Italian drivers are more aggressive -- I've driven all over Italy). The local bus or taxi/transfer service is an alternative.

BTW, if time gets type, you might consider dropping Capri. Although the island is beautiful, if the weather isn't there you may find your time best spent elsewhere.

When you go from Naples to Sorrento, be sure to visit Pompeii. We used a travel agent here in the US who arranged for a private car and driver to pick us up, take us to Pompeii where we had a private tour of the site, then the driver (who had gorgeous eyes but whose name I don’t remember) took us on to our hotel in Sorrento.

Once we got to Sorrento, our travel agent had arranged for a private car and driver from Charm Limos http://charmlimos.com/en/home.html to show us the Amalfi coast. Our driver, Claudio, could not have been better. He had to change his planned itinerary on the fly to accommodate DH’s limitations. He did it with out a hitch.

We passed on Capri because of the fog the day we planned to go there. Plus, DH was getting a little tired and needed a day of doing nothing.

DId you see this article in today's NYTImes? 36 Hours in Rome

https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2022/12/01/travel/things-to-do-rome.html?campaign_id=9&emc=edit_nn_20221201&instance_id=78974&nl=the-morning&regi_id=110574280&segment_id=114661&te=1&user_id=321d963888be08f67dcbdb91164ba11f

I love Italy. It is said you could send a lifetime in Rome and not see it all. I agree and after several trips there always find new adventures. In february I would skip the Amalfi Coast as it is pretty much shut down this time of year. If you were to do Rome and Naples you could easily make a day trip to Pompeii. Naples is a very interesting city and you could visit the amazing archeological museum where many of the mosaics and artifacts from Pompeii are on display.

ohmygosh, MarieCate, no I didn't! Great timing -thanks!

bacino, We are definitely going to fit Pompeii in. I'm not worried about the weather all by itself on Amalfi because we actually love the cold (my favorite time to go to the beach in Maine was Oct./Nov. But I am worried about things being canceled because of the weather. And then will we be left twiddling our thumbs? Do you have any feel for how often the ferries and boat tours are cancelled at that time of year?

bbstx, thank you for the specific recommendation for a tour driver!

ALSO: Can people weigh in on Naples? Friends who have visited are talking me out of it.

Ferries along the AC won’t be running in February but there is good bus service. From Sorrento or Naples the ferries will still be running to Capri. If the seas are rough they could be cancelled so keep an eye on the weather and plan your day trips accordingly.

Naples was described to us as ”gritty.” We passed on spending any time there.

Bestyears, I can also PM you the name of our tour guide in Rome, but he might not still be working. We went in 2018 and he was talking about retiring soon then. We had him for 2 days. On Day 1, a Sunday, he drove us around. But on Day 2, Monday, he preferred we take cabs due to the insane workday traffic.

I have friends who just returned, maybe last week. It is too late to contact them tonight, but I’ll ask tomorrow what they did about a tour guide in Rome.

We found Naples very crowded — we were there in late September, early October.

i enjoyed getting out of the city, especially Ercolano, Paestum, and Capri. We didn’t go to Sorrento or Amalfi.

Italy has been suffering from extreme weather conditions this fall and last summer, the most recent being torrential rains which caused the recent mud slides on Ischia (a number of deaths from the disaster). If I ever return to Naples, I would probably add that island as a place to see.

Naples is indeed on the gritty side, but also has some wonderful places and of course, terrific dining. But, I've only spent limited time there, although I have taken two trips. .

bbstx, a PM would be awesome. I think my account is set up to receive PMs, but if I don't acknowledge your message, please alert me here. Thank you so much.

Regarding naples, when we would go (multiple times), for us it was like visiting latin america, and felt like home. Loud and colorful and laundry hanging over the alleys. it was wonderful.

Ok i came up with a quick and dirty list

of what i would recommend. i also recommend to consult a guide book and others on this and other forums but here you go. i have divided it up into different posts.

Rome Free things to do

-Colosseum - see it at night when it is lit up and there are less tourists. I don’t think this is worth paying for to go inside during the day.

-Roman forum - get a nice free view from the Campidoglio (east end of the plaza). I don’t think this is worth paying for, nor the Palatine hill. Also walk up the steps of the Cordonata Capitolina for a nice view at sunset (it’s a slog).

-Markets - go see the various markets, Campo di Fiori, etc.

-Spanish steps - speaks for itself!

-Piazzas and fountains - there are many to discover, one of my favorites is the turtle fountain - Fontana delle Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei

-Pantheon - a must, but not open during church services

-Orange garden on Aventino hill - beautiful views, and don’t forget the key hole!

-Trevi fountain - go at night when all lit up

-Circo Massimo - where the chariot races were held

Rome Museums and Churches

-I skip the Vatican Church and Museum, unless there are no lines. The crowds are insane and they push you through all the galleries so quickly, so there is no possibility to stop a look at anything, it was so frustrating. I would not go back. And I didn’t find the Church that interesting. You can walk to the top of the basilica for a view of the city.

-As an alternative to St. Peter’s, I prefer Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls, an easy train or bus ride, hardly any tourists, beautiful gold gilding.

-Villa Borghese is worth it, you must make a reservation in advance. Enjoy the park after. (The Zoo is not worth it.)

-Capitoline Museums, I like this one because it tends to be quiet and has many busts and art.

Shopping

-The main strip is Via dei Condotti which will have Gucci, prada etc. right off of the Spanish Steps, and the surrounding streets, etc.

Transport

-Check out the Romapass.it to use for public transport and your first one or two museums.

Naples

-Visit the National Archeological Museum of Naples - this is where many of the relics taken from Pompei and Ercolano are housed.

-Make sure to try the pizza in Naples. There are many classic places which you can find on Google. And also go into the hole-in-the wall family restaurants. This is where the best food is found.

ohmygosh, Stephanie, thank you SO much for all your effort!

I contacted my friend who just got back. In Rome they used Get Your Guide and were pleased. PM’ing you the contact info for our guide, who may or may not have retired.

ETA: scratch that last part. No way to PM you. Try PM’ing me and I can reply.

Thank you bbstx. I've tried to figure out how to message you or to make certain I can receive messages, and I can't figure it out. I found a post with directions, but couldn't make that work. Let me take a look at Get Your Guide and then if that fits into our plans, I'll find a way to reach you. Thank you so much for reaching out to your friends for us.

I haven't been to Italy (our planned trip there was cancelled in 2020 - guess why) but, one thing that I have always found that results in favorite memories, is on the day of arrival - after checking into the hotel - just go out and wander (even if not in an area with "attractions"). Or to take a free walking tour of a neighborhood. Being outside and walking does help to adjust smoothly to the time change.

If you have a little extra time in Rome for a side trip I would strongly recommend Ostia Antica. Imagine a less touristy, less developed Pompei without crowds. It's truly an amazing experience and well worth a short bus ride.

The last time we were there (before covid), I doubt there was 50 people total on the entire site and that includes a film crew and a group of young students on a field trip.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ostia+antica&rlz=1C1CHZN_enUS1004US1004&sxsrf=ALiCzsacVaZEjH7rCpP6CfEg8Xi8fBQrmg:1670088413891&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjG4pyV_N37AhVOhIkEHagZCg0Q_AUoAXoECAIQAw&biw=1366&bih=657&dpr=1

We ate lunch in this amphitheater at almost the same spot as where the picture was taken, and the entire crowd was my wife, me, and one gentleman, also eating his lunch, on the far end of the seats.

https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/ostia-antica-near-rome

I'd be going to 2 places....

Modena & Maranello.

;-)

Faron

Thank you oberon476 -had never even heard of that, but it sounds well worth an investigation. Faron, hopefully, the next trip to Italy is to the North!

Raee_gw, that's a given! We are big walkers, and it's almost the first thing we do anywhere we go.

@Bestyears

You’re welcome, well worth the visit

Bestyears-
I'm thinking of the "Prancing Horse" & & the "charging Bull"......

😇🤪

Thought I'd share an update: We've got flights booked in and out of Rome, yay!

But the more I look into Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, the more concerned we are getting about canceled ferries. In fact, I can't find ANY boat tours out of Sorrento in February; many don't start till April. We can get a tour out of Naples, but of course the fact that there are no ships out of Sorrento gives us pause. So we are now considering scrapping that area, and are going to look into heading north, to include the Lake Como area and maybe even go into Switzerland.

Being outside and walking does help to adjust smoothly to the time change.

Yes, sunlight is very important to reset your clock.

I have never been to the Amalfi coast, but the lake region is fantastic. Just magical. I have been to Maggiore and Como. Also, so easy to take the train Rome-Milan. Are you opera buffs? La Scala is in Milan. I have also been to Lugano, but not via Milan. To me all three lake areas are drop dead gorgeous.

Though I have become a big fan of air bnb, I have stayed several times for business and pleasure at the Four Seasons Milan, a former monastery, and it is delightful.

ETA - if perchance you have never been to Venice, it is totally worth the side trip, even off season.

IN fact, if it were me, I would do Rome, Milan, Lake Como as a daytrip (1 hr drive) and then take a train to Venice (2.5 hours). To me that would make the most of the trip. Can you flyhome from Linate Milan?

If your itinerary is changing (which sounds like a good idea) consider flying out of Milan. Are you wedded to Rome? Maybe stick to the North and save southern Italy for another trip.

I disagree. If you have not been, I would say Rome is totally worth it. I like open jaw itineraries; fly into Rome and out of Milan.

They are only 3 hours apart by train. I'd call Rome more central that Southern per se.

One more thing, you should think about Florence. Maybe you'd prefer that over Venice.

You won't want to spend toooooo much time in Milan, it is just handy to fly back home from (lots of flights) and it is a good base from which to see Lake Como and or Venice. If it were me, my starting point would def be flying into Rome and out of Milan. From there the most logical things to consider for quality fo the attractions and diversity of landscape are Florence, Lake Como, and Venice. It's really your decision as to how leisurely you want to be and which are most attractive to you. Logistically, they are all good choices.

If you make it to Florence, try the Florence for Foodies tour. Friends recommended it to us. http://florenceforfoodies.com/

In Milan, there are just a few things to see: LaScala, the Duomo, the Last Supper (advanced tickets are a must), and walk through Gallerie Vittorio Emanuelle II (be cautious, it is a pickpocket’s paradise. Even our guide warned us to watch our purses.)

ETA: if you want to head west instead of further north, fly to Barcelona. Florence to Barcelona on Vueling (Iberia’s low-cost carrier) is as little as 45 euros.

I agree the Italian lakes are lovely. We were in Como in June, so not sure about February. I did not suggest Florence earlier since you were headed south, but it was a favorite, especially the Uffizi. Seina is on way to Florence and a half day there is sufficient. Also went to Milan, but I would skip and spend more time elsewhere.

If you head to Switzerland, I recommend Lucerne - Old Town with its painted walls, the Jesuit Church St Francis Cavier, and the lion.

Okay, you guys are getting me excited!

Rough plans:

Saturday: Arrive in Rome at noon.

Tuesday: Leave Rome in morning via train for either Florence or Bologna (I hear both are great places for foodies, which we are. Opinions between these two cities if we have to pick one?)

Thursday: Leave F or B for Lake Como via train or private driver.

Saturday: Private driver to Milan airport and fly home

This leaves out Venice -which I wish we could fit in, but already feels kind of squished.

Thoughts?

Florence. Excited for you!

Florence.

bravissimo!

I’m excited for you

Another vote for Florence.

For some reason, Sister and DBIL flew back home out of Bologna. DBIL said it was cheaper. 🤷‍♀️ ETA: they were using frequent flyer miles. That may have made a difference.

https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/frecciarossa.htm

Train info

Sounds great. Where on Lake Como will you be staying?

I know you will not want to hear this but you are trying to see too much . Remember you only have 7 nights. Transferring to different cities and checking in and out of hotels eats into your time. I would suggest only 2 cities.

Fly into Florence for 3 nights.

Train to Rome 4 nights and fly out of Rome.

It is really hard to limit trips but believe me you will actually see more and enjoy it more if you slow down.

you are trying to see too much

That is a question everyone needs to answer for themselves. There are many ways to travel. You could kick back and enjoy once place for a month, or do a city a day.

You will see plenty of itineraries combining these cities in trips of this duration. They are not far from each other and the train service makes it easy. I think 3 cities is just about right. It will be a nice sampler of Italy.

bookwoman, do you have any suggestions for a place to stay in Lake Como?

bacino -I hear you. It's something I'm conscious of, because in life in general I err on the side of hyperactivity. I am a person who doesn't need a lot of sleep, and somehow just always has a high level of energy, and I like to be in action. OTOH, as you point out, we don't want to spend a significant proportion of a shortish trip in transit.

Well, it depends on your budget. Years ago we stayed at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which at the time was a 4-star and was glorious. It's now a 5-star and has become very expensive. Avoid the hotels in Bellaggio (although it's a fun place to go for the day.)

We have a good friend with family in the area, and he recommends staying in Varenna. And do go to the Villa Carlotta.

We also stayed at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Check ferry/boat schedules to other lake locations.

For food, Bologna is fantastic, along with the other towns nearby. But it shines in summertime or spring/fall. Florence can be a mixed bag with food, you have to choose carefully. The country side is also wonderful, so many lovely hill towns. You might just consider spending time there, and go to Siena, San Gimigiano and the like. You can take the train into Siena, and then taxi into the center (the train stop is outside of the central area)

I've been to Como a couple of times, but in the summer. Bellagio is a jewel but Varenna indeed may appeal better. But I've not been there deep in the offseason.