Revitalize front of the home
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RedRyder
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Solution to offset strange house front (2 front doors)
Comments (13)Aah, PEI - God's country. Hydrangea and lupine heaven :) As you are a novice gardener with budget concerns, I would suggest, as others have done, is to address the traffic flow problems first. You've already indicated that you are unhappy with the approach ie the driveway, and the confusion about the main entry door. My inclination would be to make the one acre property more manageable for you by "zoning" it. I would first enclose the home and the new gardens within a low white rail fence and mixed shrub border, in whatever perimeter wouldn't be overwhelming - maybe 1/3 of your land? That would leave the back for you to sow to meadow or wildflowers as you prefer later. The front third would be dedicated to vehicular needs and setting the stage. Your southern view of the wetlands across the way is probably quite beautiful. The driveway as it now lies in front, while practical for ease of access to the house and for snow removal, will likely detract from that somewhat. However, if you are not going to be adding a side garage in the future, you could just leave it where it is and improve the appearance. Think of a traditional Island approach. Fresh gravel isn't costly and is practical in your situation. Don't bother with edging in a snow-country setting. Run the drive from the roadway up to within 10 feet of the perimeter fence in a "T" shape - that way, you can create a defined turn-around area for vehicles or for extra parking. The facing fence, with an arboured opening or gate centered on your newly positioned front steps and door, can be softened with a small perennial bed in the front of it as well as behind. Line the driveway edges with spaced heritage-type trees on either side. Ash trees are fairly fast growing but also ask at the local nurseries for their recommendations. On the house, I too would reconfigure the steps to lead up to the actual front door. Periwinkle blue is a really nice colour choice, especially if you echoed it in a trim around the white windows and ultimately with your flower choices. I wouldn't get too hung up about the asymmetry of the house. The plantings will distract from that... and whatever other cosmetic changes you may ultimately make. Fruit trees and flowering vines would be appropriate and lovely somewhere in the fenced yard. And while your home would benefit from some foundation planting, just be careful not to concentrate everything in a claustrophobic huddle too close to the house. Plant out to the fence line, spill over it and frame the views as you look out from your windows....See MoreHelp revitalize dying azaleas
Comments (8)Here is a suggestion, Zach. After you make sure that the bush has an adequate supply of acidic mulch -about 3-4" up to the drip line-, I suggest that you test the soil moisture daily using the finger method. For about two weeks, insert a finger to a depth of 4" daily and determine how the soil feels. If these are large bushes, test in four different places every time. If they are small bushes, test in only one place. The idea is to get a general idea how the area under the drip line is doing. When the soil feels almost dry or dry then water; otherwise, do nothing. Each time you water, make a note in a wall calendar. At the end of the two weeks, observe how often you watered (every 3/4/5/etc days) by looking in the calendar. Then set the sprinkler to water 1 gallon of water on the same frequency. When temperatures change 10 degrees or more and stay there, use the finger method again. You should notice that watering frequency increases as we get closer to the mid summer months and is reduced in the Fall. During winter, you can reduce watering further to once every two weeks on dry winters when the ground does not freeze. Apply 1.5 gallons of your soil happens to be sandy soil. While testing the soil for moisture, be aware that azaleas have very shallow root systems on the top 4-6" of the soil. They do not like the roots to be disturbed much so be careful when working to add mulch, clean debris, insert fingers and stuff like that. An adequate supply of mulch should help the shrubs quite a bit. It will reduce the frequency of your waterings. It will keep the soil evenly moist. It will protect the shrubs on windy and dry times. And it will provide food for the azaleas. Generally speaking, if your soil does not have any mineral defficienies (determined by a soil test), you could let the azaleas feed off the decomposing mulch; no fertilizer needed. Except for an application of sulphur this time of the year, that is what I do with my shrubs. Just make a habit to add more mulch in Spring and Fall when more is needed. Luis...See MoreHome stretch--Revitalize vs Dakota hardware
Comments (41)Thank you, jbug! My widest drawer is 36" and the pull is considered a 12" but it almost seems like 13" when measured. They are crazy expensive at that size but now it is one of those things that I am glad we splurged. My kids are the ones who unload the dishwasher and having the one pull saves the cabinet. Plus I like the sleek look of just having one....See MoreIdeas for front house, I need change front house
Comments (3)In which part of the world are you located (country/nearest large city)? Landscaping the exterior would give you dimension to your home....See Morelittlebug Zone 5 Missouri
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