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Paint Bathrooms

Benjamin Moore Paint in the Bathroom

last year

Hi All,

We are painting the walls in our bathroom with Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter 50% lightened. My husband wants to go with the Aura Bath & Spa paint, but it only comes in matte which makes me very nervous, given that this is the bathroom. I recognize that this is made specifically for the bathroom, but I have been raised to think that we should choose more of a satin or semi-gloss (and add the anti-mildew additive to the paint). Does anyone have experience with the Aura Bath & Spa, and can it really perform up the standards of going with an Aura satin instead? I'd really welcome any feedback or experiences on this!

Thanks!

Featured Answer

Faron79

last year

Robin-
You need to find a new painter.

* Unless you worded something wrong, that "advice" is bassackwards......

* Anyone that needs more than 2 coats of a white-base paint (on a primer no less!!!! 😮🤭 ) shouldn't be painting.

* I've had MANY very positive comments on the Bath & Spa.

Faron

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Comments (9)

ShadyWillowFarm
last year
^^^This 100%. Ditch the crazy expensive brands and use Behr.
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artemis78
last year
last modified: last year
I love-love-love Aura Bath & Spa! It resolved chronic mildew issues in our bathroom. (The bathroom had previously been painted in BM Regal in eggshell by the previous owner, but was constantly mildewing for the first few years we lived in our house.) We primed with a mildew-resistant primer and repainted with Aura Bath & Spa eleven years ago and haven't had a problem since. No idea how much was the primer and how much the paint, but I didn't hesitate to use it again when we added a new bathroom. We had a solid Panasonic fan throughout so at least in our case, ventilation wasn't the problem.

ETA: the primer we apparently used was Zinsser 1-2-3, and we repainted longer ago than I remember based on the old Gardenweb threads about it!
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Yeah that is most likely surfactant leaching if the drips are sort of brownish. You need to let the paint dry completely before showering or shower with the door open and make sure you use your fan. You may actually get more leaching with Aura because the colorants are waterborne so try your best to keep moisture off the walls while the paint cures which can take up to a month. Also, you may want to make sure your fan is the proper size for your bathroom and that it is functioning properly. Many builders throw the cheapest fans that barely meet code in their bathrooms.
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No, but I bought some exterior primer and paint with True Value brand name, carries a warranty for 25 years. It doesn't have that old latex "feel", hope it doesn't end up peeling like the old latex paints did. I just love the look of the finish of this one (semi-gloss) I'm using now compared to the older ones I used to paint with. I went back to oil based paints because they are tried and true but much harder to clean up your brushes so I relented and decided to try latex again because it's so much easier, therefore faster, and you don't have jars and cans of paint thinner sitting around. Oops, probably nobody uses brushes any more. Well, I do except for walls where rollers are much better. Benjamin Moore should be a good brand. I'd scrape really thoroughly and rough up the surface first with sandpaper or that liquid sandpaper. Then you need to clean it well so you get a good bond. Incidentally, I painted my bathroom years ago with some latex paint I don't remember. I lightly sanded and cleaned the woodwork, but just washed the walls as they had textured surface. I am having problems with the old drywall in the ceiling cracking up, but the paint has held up very well, no peeling whatsoever, but then I seldom use the shower which generates the most moisture. That's what causes most bathroom problems. I think *some* of the problems with the older latex paints is that people bought the cheapest ones and didn't prepare the surfaces properly beforehand, just started painting away.
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I just don't know that vinyl is really necessary, my opinion. We did our basement bath in fairly inexpensive composite beadboard (not solid hardwood, but not pressed paneling) and primed and painted it with good quality exterior paint and have had no problems. And we have kind of a weak exhaust fan setup so we have had some moisture nearby. It's looked great for 10 years now. Also, just to your point about whites, my upstairs bath is all white (historical style 'sanitary' look) and it is like 50 shades of white in there :) When I picked paint color, I tried to focus on the lighting and looked at swatches in the same light conditions when I would be in the bathroom most often.
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Best case they emboss an outline in the finish. Worst case they stick and peel off paint when you remove them. If you're never going to take them off, no big deal. Make sure they're not tight, just sit them on the paint film. Can always tighten them later. Because if you screw them in too tight the base of the pull pushes into the undercured paint film and you get a slight, mushy 'puddle' around the base of the pull. That puddle can create a weak spot for it to start chipping.
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Claire
Original Author
last year
Thank you, everyone! This is really helpful. We have a good fan picked out so I feel better about moving forward with our top choice (Aura Bath & Spa)!
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rockinrobin68
last year
We just finished coat #3 today so NOT happy with the coverage. It does look nice as finished because I love the matte finish. Hopefully it lasts. My first time using this product. The walls were brown previously (we moved into this house so not our color). Needed to seal and prime the walls with expensive Zinsser BIN shellac primer first. I figured that 2 coats should be guaranteed for this expensive BM Aura Bath & Spa paint, but it required 3. We went to a warm white with "Mascarpone."
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plan2remodel
last year
I chose B.M. satin finish paint seven years ago for two bathroom remodels. The downstairs shower gets the most use, and even with exhaust fan running, I get mildew on the ceiling. Next bathroom remodel, I plan to use the BM Aura Bath & Spa -- only alternative would be to tile the ceiling.
0
rockinrobin68
last year
Hi plan2remodel -- I am certainly no expert, but you may want to research if it makes sense to use some kind of anti-mildew primer first before painting as a kind of sealant. This might be an oil base which will smell, so target a time of year when the windows can be open. My painter told me after the fact that because I used Zinsser BIN as a shellac (oil) based primer, the paint does not soak in as well, and this was another reason why the BM Aura Bath & Spa needed three coats. So either plan for a minimum of 3 coats if you continue with the Aura Bath & Spa or perhaps research if there are other, better coverage, high-humidity tolerant paints. And obviously, if a newer, greater coverage (CFM) bath fan is necessary? https://todayshomeowner.com/bathroom-vent-fan-cfm-calculator/
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plan2remodel
last year
BM Aura Bath & Spa paint is advertised as a "paint and primer" product -- does that not mean that a separate primer is not used?
0
artemis78
last year
Technically yes, but I would use a primer anyway, especially if it's going onto new drywall.
0

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