This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Oh my! I thought that was granite! Maybe it's the same that I saw at that house afterall! Well what ever it is, it's very pretty, I like it alot. Glad the color suggestion might be the one, colors can be very different on the screen, so if it doesn't work out at least you've got a direction to go in. I love your flooring, we have just installed a slate in our bathroom that looks very much like that. Smaller tiles can be very busy looking. Those are 12x12's right? Larger tile can help a room to look more spacious, and from what I can tell, it would look great in the that sized room. You may want to consider using the 12x12's instead. Looks like you've got a beautiful plan. Now that you know how to post pictures, I hope you share the after pics as well! Good Luck! -- Lukki

Shee & Co., Sorry it took me a while to get back to this.... Skewing: I shouldn't have mentioned this goofy little point, but now it's out there! It's only relevant in a few "Real-life" scenarios. It mainly pertains (to ME anyway...) paint applied too thinly, therefore revealing a hint of the primer color. * Example: If someone uses a "pink" primer under Burgundy, the whole paintjob can appear too light, 'cuz the primer is too white. * To ME...Gray is more appropriate, 'cuz it alters deep colors the "least", if paint is applied too thin. * Gray primer has its limits though! If you're painting a vivid "Lemon Yellow" or "Basketball Orange", THEN you'd need a primer that's almost the final paint color! A medium-gray primer COULD give a grayish-cast to bright, vivid tones. Curing/Bathroom use: * Sorry Shee.....you'll have to smell for a month.........;-) * JUST KIDDING! * After 2nd paint coat has dried for a day, use bathroom as normal. It needs that 24hrs. to get the initial surface-dry so steam doesn't re-soften the paint slightly. * "Full Cure-Out" mainly refers to the complete dry-thru/hardening of the applied film...SO IT'S WASHABLE. "Sweeping": * If you're working L-to-R, the RIGHT edge of a "swept" section will be the wettest. * Therefore, you're OK to slightly work into this section. When sweeping your 2nd column, start from its left edge, overlapping into 1st column slightly. * Ease-off the pressure on your rollers left side just a hair when overlapping a previous sections' final sweep. Faron

BM has top quality paint and I don’t think it will make as much as a difference as the finish. You may want to take a look at article below and speak to a BM paint consultant as different rooms may also need different finishes, kitchens, bathrooms vs hallways vs bedrooms. Flat is not used often. https://artzyfartzycreations.com/what-sheen-should-i-paint-my-interior/