Thanks so much for all who have replied. So, stainless it is. It really helps to have the imput of others, someone else to look at something to give an opinion. I've seen so many beautiful fireclay sinks on this forum that I love, but when trying to find one there was none that would fit my existing hole so the next best thing I thought would be cast iron, but it seems that the consensus is that a white cast iron would be too much white with my white countertops. So, I will go ahead with the stainless. Thank you! Now the next decision I have to decide is either to go with the 8 inch deep Julien stainless sink with zero radius corners(from their Urban Edge collection) or should I go with the Julien sink that is 10 inches deep with the more rounded corners(from the Julien classic collection)? The undermounting will add another inch to the depth of the sink so I'm worried that 11 inches may be too deep although I prefer the rounded corners. I like the 8 inch depth of the Julien Urban Edge collection sink but am worried that the sqaure edges may look too modern in my old fashioned traditional kitchen. It seems impossible to find the "perfect" sink.... Helou, the fridge is a 20 yr built in subzero that just keeps on running strong.... cilantro, I am sorry that you are not happy with your cast iron, how frusturating that it has stained your countertops! Thanks for letting me know that your Kohler cast iron has not held up well, that's too bad. What did Kohler say, have you called them?

Thank you all for your opinions! I think I will go with the basalt slate. Can anyone who has laminate recommend what edge to get. I like the more modern look of the square edge but dont want to deal with the brown line. I was thinking of getting the D edge which looks almost square but without seam. The only problem is the layout of my kitchen I have a peninsula and I dont think that edge can go around a corner seamlessly. My layout of the counter is an L shape where the peninsula is the bottom of the L. Does anyone have experience with this? I want to avoid as many seams as possible. Here is a picture of the D edge.

First of all you only tarp whats really needed these roofing companies get paid by the square footage of tarp they use so there going to use as much as they can second the tarp should be put under the shingles approx 2 rows above the damage and use the least amount of nails to support tarp i cut off what excess of tarp you dint really need with a few nails above cut line you can use felt paper under shingles with nail holes and use roofing caulking to secure shingles

Mine are Wine and Roses and another compact burgundy colored compact variety. I would call them brown rather than burgundy, which I admit can be a sophisticated color in a garden. But the leaves are not glossy but dull matte and the shapes are very open snd random. Dull and shapeless.