If you want to be ready...call your town building office. Ask what version of the IRC code they are using. The code is updated every three years, so it might be 2012, 2009, or the 2006 version, etc. To a certain extent it doesn't matter, because the applicable section of code hasn't changed in quite a few years. But you want to avoid showing someone a 2012 code reference when your town still uses 2006. Even if the verbiage is the same. Your goal is to eliminate wiggle room. Go to this website. Click on the appropriate version of the code. Click on Chapter 27 - Plumbing Fixtures Click on Section 2709 - Shower Receptors Scroll down to read the text. Sections that could be of concern to you are: P2709.2.1 PVC sheets. Plasticized polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sheet shall meet the requirements of ASTM D 4551. Sheets shall be joined by solvent welding in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. That patch in your membrane? You want to make sure is was solvent welded per the manufacturer's instructions with a proper PVC sheet cement, and not stuck together with the red stuff which might be RedGard waterproofing membrane. P2709.3 Installation. Lining materials shall be sloped one-fourth unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope) to weep holes in the subdrain by means of a smooth, solidly formed subbase, shall be properly recessed and fastened to approved backing so as not to occupy the space required for the wall covering, and shall not be nailed or perforated at any point less than 1 inch (25.4 mm) above the finished threshold. 2709.3 specifies that the membrane or the lining material itself needs to be pitched to the drain at the rate of 1/4" per foot of run. Yours is not pitched, it's flat on the subfloor. It specifies that the base under the membrane needs to be smooth and solid so moisture that gets below the tile can flow to the drain's weep holes. You wrote that the base around your drain appears to be swollen/raised up, soft, and spongy. If that's the case, your membrane needs to come up and the base needs to be redone. Do NOT reuse the old membrane. And the last reference: P2709.4 Receptor drains. An approved flanged drain shall be installed with shower subpans or linings. The flange shall be placed flush with the subbase and be equipped with a clamping ring or other device to make a water-tight connection between the lining and the drain. The flange shall have weep holes into the drain. Your weep holes are clogged with RedGard pookey. No good. The weep holes need to be open so moisture in the mud bed can flow through them and escape into the drain. A flat liner with no weep holes? Your mud bed will saturate with water and with it unable to drain, it can get nasty. My opinion? Neither your inspector nor the crew that built the shower can waffle if you can cite and show them the applicable code. Code is simply considered the minimum standard for residential construction. Not that the following will occur, but If you went to small claims court, the code will be your best evidence that the crew failed to construct the shower using the minimum standards for construction. Take photos, save emails, document the conversations by writing notes after you converse. Hope that helps. Good luck.

Typically we match the bathroom floor to the shower floor. If the bathroom floor tile is too large and slippery, we'd cut it into smaller pieces. Do make sure that your shower floor tile is not slippery when wet. There are products that you can put on the tile afterward to add some grit if needed. Your shower most likely has a threshold and make sure that is well-delineated so you won't stub your toes. Keep in mind that natural stone requires more maintenance and is not as resilient as porcelain tile.

I ripped out about 3,000 sq.ft of saltillo tile on floors, walls and showers in my Spanish style house. Mine was red and green, which sucked the light out of the spaces. All was replaced with much higher quality tiles and hardwood floors that still respected the style of the house. We found it uncomfortable to walk on and a hassle to clean. My kids at the time were into Lego and saltillo made a lousy bumpy surface for kids to play on. We did find them slippery in the bathrooms and showers. We also had wood floors in the house, which we kept and added more.

I believe the difference in color is too great with the white and brown. Why? 3 reasons 1. The products that are cemented to the building you will not redo anytime soon. Messy , dirty, expensive and just not worth the trouble  2. When you add a product to the building structure. Windows , floors they must last a long time. Durability, wear and tear, and STYLE. All equal a story of when the home was designed.  The look over a period of time 10 years + and the home will become "out of date" Needs a face lift . 3. The homes we admire, the Museums, Churches, Libraries, Opera House have one common thread. At a glance they are timeless. Built in 1940, 1990 etc  The crystal clear item is not seen  For this reason I would not go "trendy". Generally our first choice is the right one. Simple and elegant  How do you change this ad time moves on. Color Bedroom a change of bedspread. Bathroom towels become a dark navy or  deep forest green. Yellow for spring  Paint a wall blue, hang a piece of art  The change is simple and your money well spent for resale  Take a moment to do another board  Remove the brown and replace with a neutral. Try an Odegard runner - There are so many options  Enjoy