Any new or different vegetable dishes besides pumpkin?
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Differences between zone 9 & zone 10 (besides avg lo temp) ?
Comments (6)Myles: FIRST ... What are hardiness zones? It seems every gardening book and nursery catalog refers to plant hardiness zones, also known as climate zones or growing zones. If you're new to gardening, you may be wondering what all the fuss is with these zones, and how to find out which zone you are gardening in. Basically, plant hardiness zones are a guide to help you know which plants will grow where you live, so you don't plant things that will soon die just because they can't manage your region's temperatures. Plants vary in the temperature extremes they can endure. Basic laboratory testing can determine the lowest sustained temperature a particular plant type can withstand, but, as gardeners, we still need to know how these measurements relate to our own gardens. USDA Hardiness Zones In an attempt to answer this question, years ago botanists and horticulturists started gathering weather records throughout North America to compile a database to show the average coldest temperatures for each region. These records were condensed into a range of temperatures and transformed into various zones of plant hardiness. Maps were then made to show the lines between these temperature zones. The climactic studies and maps were undertaken by two independent groups: The Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in Washington, D.C. The two maps reflected some variances, but in recent years, the differences between the Arnold Arboretum and the USDA have narrowed. Today, the USDA map, which was last updated and released in 1990 (based on weather records from 1974-1986), is generally considered the standard measure of plant hardiness throughout much of the United States. Hence we have the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones. So what's wrong with plant hardiness zones? Well, just think about this: The average minimum temperature is not the only factor in figuring out whether a plant will survive in your garden. Soil types, rainfall, daytime temperatures, day length, wind, humidity and heat also play their roles. For example, although both Austin, Texas and Portland, Oregon are in the same zone (8), the local climates are dramatically different. Even within a city, a street, or a spot protected by a warm wall in your own garden, there may be microclimates that affect how plants grow. The zones are a good starting point, but you still need to determine for yourself what will and won't work in your garden. How many zones are there? The USDA plant hardiness map divides North America into 11 hardiness zones. Zone 1 is the coldest; zone 11 is the warmest, a tropical area found only in Hawaii and southernmost Florida (and maybe the very southwest corner of San Diego County, California). In between, the zones follow a fairly predictable pattern across the continent, though a closer look will reveal scattered patterns of variations. Generally, the colder zones are found at higher latitudes and higher elevations. Applying zone references Plant encyclopedias may refer simply, for example, to "Zone 6," which generally means that the plant is hardy to that zone (and will endure winters there), and generally can withstand all the warmer zones below. More detailed information may indicate a range of zones (i.e., "Zones 4-9"), which means the plant will only grow in those zones, and will not tolerate the colder and warmer extremes outside them. But remember, zones are only a guide. You may find microclimates that allow you to grow more than the books say you can; by the same token, you may find to your dismay that some precious plant -- one that's "supposed" to be hardy in your zone -- finds its way to plant heaven instead. If you live outside North America You can roughly translate the USDA hardiness zones by finding out how low your area's temperatures can reach, and then use the chart below to find your corresponding zone. Zone 1: below -46 C (below -50 F) Zone 2: -46 to -40 C (-50 to -40 F) Zone 3: -40 to -34 C (-40 to -30 F) Zone 4: -34 to -29 C (-30 to -20 F) Zone 5: -29 to -23 C (-20 to -10 F) Zone 6: -23 to -18 C (-10 to 0 F) Zone 7: -18 to -12 C (0 to 10 F) Zone 8: -12 to -7 C (10 to 20 F) Zone 9: -7 to -1 C (20 to 30 F) Zone 10: -1 to 4 C (30 to 40 F) Zone 11: above 4 C (above 40 F) Sunset Zones versus USDA Zones Gardeners in the western United States sometimes are confused when confronted with the 11 Hardiness Zones created by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture), because they are used to a 24-zone climate system created 40 years ago by Sunset Magazine. The Sunset zone maps, which cover 13 Western states, are much more precise than the USDA's, since they factor in not only winter minimum temperatures, but also summer highs, lengths of growing seasons, humidity, and rainfall patterns to provide a more accurate picture of what will grow there. If you live in the western U.S., you'll find that nurseries, garden centers, and other western gardeners usually refer to the Sunset climate zones rather than the USDA plant hardiness zones. In fact, the Sunset zones and maps are what are listed for each plant in Sunset's Western Garden Book and Western Garden CD-ROM, which are considered the standard gardening references in the West. However, the USDA zones are still of importance to western gardeners, since the USDA zones are used in the rest of the country. When you order plants from catalogs or read general garden books, you need to know your USDA zone in order to be able to interpret references correctly. SECOND... The AHS Plant Heat Zone Map by H. Marc Cathey, AHS President Emeritus Most gardeners are familiar with the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Plant Hardiness Zone Map. By using the map to find the zone in which you live, you will be able to determine what plants will "winter over" in your garden and survive for many years. That map was first published in 1960 and updated in 1990. Today nearly all American references books, nursery catalogs, and gardening magazines describe plants using USDA Zones. But as we all know, cold isn't the only factor determining whether our plants will survive and thrive. Particularly during seasons of drought, we are all aware of the impact that heat has on our plants. And although there is still disagreement in the scientific community on this issue, many believe that our planet is becoming hotter because of changes in its atmosphere. The effects of heat damage are more subtle than those of extreme cold, which will kill a plant instantly. Heat damage can first appear in many different parts of the plant: Flower buds may wither, leaves may droop or become more attractive to insects, chlorophyll may disappear so that leaves appear white or brown, or roots may cease growing. Plant death from heat is slow and lingering. The plant may survive in a stunted or chlorotic state for several years. When desiccation reaches a high enough level, the enzymes that control growth are deactivated and the plant dies. Using the Heat-Zone Map Use the AHS Plant Heat-Zone Map in the same way that you do the Hardiness Map. Start by finding your town or city on the map. The larger versions of the map have county outlines that may help you do this. The 12 zones of the map indicate the average number of days each year that a given region experiences "heat days"-temperatures over 86 degrees (30 degrees Celsius). That is the point at which plants begin suffering physiological damage from heat. The zones range from Zone 1 (less than one heat day) to Zone 12 (more than 210 heat days). Thousands of garden plants have now been coded for heat tolerance, with more to come in the near future. You will see the heat zone designations joining hardiness zone designations in garden centers, references books, and catalogs. On each plant, there will be four numbers. For example, a tulip may be 3-8, 8-1. If you live in USDA Zone 7 and AHS Zone 7, you will know that you can leave tulips outdoors in your garden year-round. An ageratum may be 10-11, 12-1. It can withstand summer heat throughout the United States, but will over winter only in our warmest zones. An English wallflower may be 5-8, 6-1. It is relatively cold hardy, but can't tolerate extreme summer heat. Gardeners categorize plants using such tags as "annual" or "perennial," "temperate" or "tropical," but these tags can obscure rather than illuminate our understanding of exactly how plants sense and use the growth-regulating stimuli sent by their environment. Many of the plants that we consider annuals-such as the petunia, coleus, snapdragon, and vinca-are capable of living for years in a frost-free environment. The Heat Map will differ from the Hardiness Map in assigning codes to "annuals," including vegetables and herbs, and ultimately field crops as well. Plants vary in their ability to withstand heat, not only from species to species but even among individual plants of the same species! Unusual seasons-fewer or more hot days than normal-will invariably affect results in your garden. And even more than with the hardiness zones, we expect gardeners to find that many plants will survive outside their designated heat zone. This is because so many other factors complicate a plant's reaction to heat. Most important, the AHS Plant Heat-Zone ratings assume that adequate water is supplied to the roots of the plant at all times. The accuracy of the zone coding can be substantially distorted by a lack of water, even for a brief period in the life of the plant. Although some plants are naturally more drought tolerant than others, horticulture by definition means growing plants in a protected, artificial environment where stresses are different than in nature. No plant can survive becoming completely dessicated. Heat damage is always linked to an insufficient amount of water being available to the plant. Herbaceous plants are 80 to 90 percent water, and woody plants are about 50 percent water. Plant tissues must contain enough water to keep their cells turgid and to sustain the plant's processes of chemical and energy transport. Watering directly at the roots of a plant-through drip irrigation for instance-conserves water that would be lost to evaporation or runoff during overhead watering. In addition, plants take in water more efficiently when it is applied to their roots rather than their leaves. Mulching will also help conserve water. There are other factors that can cause stress to plants and skew the heat-zone rating. Some of them are more controllable than others. BOTTOM LINE [per me]... Use the Sunset Western Garden Book climate zoning system for most of your gardening needs. Use the USDA system when you're talking gardening and plants with horticultural friends outside the West. (Although there is a Sunset "National Gardening Book" that divides the entire U.S. into 45 climate zones [including our 24]). Joe...See Morevegetable highlight: Seminole Pumpkin
Comments (13)I'm in the process of making the most wonderful calabaza soup right now. You could use seminole pumpkin instead. Rate the Recipe Read Reviews (0) Yield Makes 12 cups Ingredients 4 pounds peeled calabaza or acorn squash, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1/2 cup diced onion 1/2 cup diced celery 1/4 cup bacon drippings (about 5 slices bacon) or olive oil 2 tablespoons curry powder 1 tablespoon red curry paste 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 bay leaf 1 quart chicken stock 2 cups heavy cream Salt White pepper Garnish: toasted almonds and sunflower sprouts Preparation Combine first 4 ingredients on a foil-lined jelly-roll pan. Bake at 400° for 30 minutes or until squash is tender. Set aside. Sauté next 3 ingredients in bacon drippings in a large skillet until tender. Stir in curry powder; toast 30 seconds. Add calabaza, curry paste, thyme, and bay leaf; stir to combine. Add stock and cream; bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 30 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender, pour through a wire-mesh strainer, and press with the back of a spoon. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Garnish, if desired. Coastal Living, APRIL 2007 Yum....See MoreAny other cheese-a-holics here besides me?
Comments (34)Check out Bee Hive cheese made in Ogden, Utah....just down the road from where I live. This is an artisan cheddar cheese, with different flavors. The milk comes to the cheese "factory" from a local dairy that is just 15 minutes away...so fresh, fresh, fresh. Bee Hive Cheese tries to use Utah products whenever possible. Founded in 2005 or 2006 (by a couple of business men who were sick of the suit, tie & brief case routine), this artisan cheese shop has won accolades and awards in the artisan cheese contests they've entered. Their Barely Buzzed cheddar (cheddar rubbed and aged in a mixture of espresso grounds and lavendar) won top prize at their first artisan cheese competition in Vermont. The next year, in Chicago, their cheeses again scored in the top 3, and similar results have occurred with each competition they've entered. In 2009, they competed for the first time in the international artisan cheese competition, and their smoked walnut shells & apple cheddar came in #3, internationally. I do not work there, nor am I affiliated...I'm just a loyal customer who loves spreading the word about this very good, and very different cheese. I order the cheese and have it sent to friends and family located throughout the U.S., so if you're interested in trying this cheese, you can certainly do that. I recommend the cooler months though, to keep the cheese in peak condition during transport. From my many discussions with the owners, I know that California has many cheese shops which carry Bee Hive Cheese. Here's a link to the cheese shop. Please let me know if any of you try this cheese. I also highly recommend the Rusk crackers they make there (again, a laborious hand-made process) because they're filled with dried fruit, nuts & seeds and go beautifully with the cheese. Here is a link that might be useful: Bee Hive Cheese...See MoreLooking for an easy but different green vegetable dish for Thanksgivin
Comments (22)Peppi, after Kraft discontinued the roll cheese I experimented with cheddar, then pepper jack w/jalapenos, along with fresh jalapeno. Neither offered the same consistency. Thought about adding a little cream cheese, but never did. When I tried the Velveeta I thought it was fairly similar to the original. That said, give it a shot. You may be happy with the result. Linda, I no longer make stuffing or potatoes and gravy. I also only make SM once or twice a year. Mine has never been "goopy". Maybe that's because I use spinach squeezed dry....See More- 3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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3 years agoDoes this appeal to you at all? When I first heard the name of the recipe, I could not imagine that it would be edible. I love turnips, I love turnip greens, but au gratin? Weird, or so I thought. One of the cookbook club members brought it and if I hadn’t been minding my manners, I would have licked the plate!! btw, it is from Vivian Howard’s Deep Run Roots and is hands-down my favorite recipe from that book!
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I'm finally able to try some stuff, including this salad that was inspired by something from a restaurant. That was mostly different, but inspirational.
Golden Kiwi Salad serves 4
4 firm and ripe golden kiwis (or green), quartered and sliced thick
2 medium radishes, sliced .5 very thin
3 ”x3” cucumber or 6”X1.5” English cucumber sliced 3.0 thick, peels on
1 slice 1/4” thick 4” diameter red onion cut into short strings
1/2 juice orange, juiced
Citrus Chipotle dressing 1-2 TBSP (sorry, too tired to make essentially the same thing. Vinaigrette of oil and vinegar, OJ concentrate (Frozen OJ), salt, chopotle powder, sweetener if too sour, lemon juice to thin and acidify, whatever thickener you desire)
Optional, small crumbled feta or queso blanco or fresco
A fresh herb such as cilantro, mint, tarragon, cress ot arugula. ONLY ONE and use sparingly because it will wilt.
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Tonight I sort of made the Vivian Howard turnips. I probably should have looked at it analytically first but I'm glad I sort of mad it (except where I didn't). It's called "Gratin". I read the ingredients. A gratin is usually a cheese dish, the word referring to the grating of the cheese. This is indeed a cheese dish with a custard carrier and enough bread to make it bread pudding. Here are the ingredients:
2 tbsp butter, divided
8 oz greens , wilted to 1 cup
3 medium onions, halved and sliced with the grain
1 egg
1 1/2 tbsp salt, divided
1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated on a microplane
2 cups turnip roots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 cup Fontina, grated on a box grater
2 cups heavy cream
10 turns of the pepper mill or scant 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
5 garlic cloves, sliced thin
3 cups stale crusty bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 tsp dried thyme
I just didn't want to go so heavy, so I used 1 tbsp butter in the veg and sunflower oil spray on the dish, 2 bunches of baby turnips and their greens, which just about filled the measures correctly, a tiny bit on the scant side. I had a really big onion, closer to softball sized than baseball sized, which filled the sauté pan, so I went with that. It didn't say what kind of salt, but I assumed coarse from the quantity, and used about half. I have parm and fontina but want them for something else, and I had some Lamb Chopper which needed using and was tasty enough and mid-dry to sub for both. I also have cream, but I just didn't want it to be that heavy, so I used a 12 oz. can of whole evaporated milk and made up the quantity with half a cup of non-fat leben. No crusty bread, so I used a slightly freezer burnt bakery croissant. And I spilled the thyme a little, but it was curly and airy, so that probably didn't spoil the measure. I used about three handfuls of the cheese in the body, as directed, plus another handful on top, or about a third of the total amount called for.
What a mess!! She points out where you can reuse the sauté pan but given all the other pots and vessels, how could you tell you were saving washing up? I didn't want to boil my turnips so I precooked them in the microwave, so that was only a Corelle bowl rather than a 6qt. pot. It was still a lot of vessels. I hope they pay their scullery workers fair wages and plenty of perks!
So ratios by volume: turnips + greens = bread = cheese = cream + onion + egg-ish. This is not a vegetable recipe.
It came out fine. Very tasty. I didn't do the long soak because the custard had no trouble permeating the croissant.
Conclusion, the bread pudding is very tasty. Using cream and the correct amount of cheese would have made it that much more gooey and decadent. It did nothing for the turnips, however. The sweetness of the caramelized onions fought with the sharpness (which is mild in these tiny turnips. The greens were more about hey, what's that in my pudding than desirable. If you need to bribe people with fancy fats to eat turnips, I guess this is a way to do it. Definitely worth the try, and it'll make nice breakfast food.
ETA--it's something of a hit (though the greens get picked out and eaten separately). I doubt there'll be any left tomorrow.
nekotish