I just used Gardz last night to start the repair process in the bathroom I just painstakingly stripped wallpaper off unprepared dryway (what a nightmare - I am still cursing whoever did this!). I sanded it down pretty well, but there were still little chunks of glue that I could not get off. Anyway, the gardz cost $30 a gallon, and my local store did not carry it in quarts. I used very little as it is quite thin. It did an amazing job of "sealing" that drywall and I feel alot better about moving forward with this! Some of that pesky glue actually loosened while I was applying the gardz and I scrapped it off as I went. This morning, I have a fairly smooth (well, excepted where the drywall is torn and we have to skim coat) wall and it feels like a nice consistent surface sealed from any residual glue etc. The can says to sand, apply gardz, do the skim coat, sand and then reapply gardz. I was going to use a normal white tint primer for the second application - over the skimcoat as i think that is the advice I read on this forum. Do I need to apply the gardz over the skimcoat like the can says? thanks for the recommendations, this seems to be a great product!

Thank you all for your valuable input. This morning I used a Rotozip to cut out a drywall spot that's a little larger than my thumb. Oddly enough, there's insulation in there. (I guess to block the sounds from the other side of our ZLL home.) Upon moving the insulation aside with my finger, I could see a bizarre shape for black PVC. A little more poking revealed that this is the one of those "directional T's" that throws water in the correct direction of flow. The "T" is mounted horizontally so it forms a "T" when looked at from below. If the previous owner had moved the hook 1cm away from the wall or cabinet, no damage would have been done. Bah!!! Instead, the hook penetrated right where the junction of the "T" is curved from one side. My head is going to rotate. I'll try a combination of the points mentioned above. Roughing up the edges before using any kind of primer or cement to give it something to adhere to, possibly shoving a plastic screw with cement in the hole once I get it to the proper size, etc. If this had happened on an ordinary section of straight pipe, it wouldn't be so bad. But this had to be in the narrow armpit of the "T". Too bad I through away the hook that used to be in there. ;-)

"Even a smooth wall has many different degrees of texture." I hope you mean roller stipple or brush marks. As long as the wall is uniform in these it will look fine. That is why 'touching up' a rolled wall shows if you use a brush, and the brush cut in around rolled area shows as a slightly different paint texture. Cutting in wider than needed and then not rolling as close as possible makes the effect even more noticeable. A plaster or drywall wall should have no texture at all before painting if it was not purposely applied.

You can try to use plaster washers to re-attach the piece, but it is likely to break and be a real PITA to finish out so nothing shows (a whole lot of feathering will be required). Some drywall can be attached to serve as a base, then use setting type joint compound mixed about as thick as peanut butter to bring the area flush. Setting compound will not shrink anything like pre-mixed mud if you use just enough water to max it workable. Easysand is not hard to work with, and can be sanded. Durabond is as hard as lime-putty plaster and does not sand well at all (plaster was not sanded to make it smooth either).