Put the legs back on your stove. That's not cool to do because you're re-engineering the stove. You have a flammable floor underneath the stove it needs to be adjusted to the right height for air to flow. I have the same problem at my house after doing a remodel. After looking around I found this to be the simplest solution. I went to internet and found a company that sells rubber. I bought a 10 ft long by 1 inch by a half inch thick. I measured the distance from the back of the stove to the front of the stove to get the correct cut. I had to make a few passes to get through the rubber but it worked and I was pleased with the outcome. I'm going to glue a piece of plastic to the front edge that I cut which is exposed to make it appears though it is a finished product.

I just purchased a dresser/buffet type piece to use as a TV console on a long wall and it is very close to the dimensions you want. It is on raised feet so it is open at the bottom too. I didn't want to spend a lot and planned to either paint or refinish the piece so I searched used furniture places. I ended up finding the piece for $35 at a Habitat for Humanity Restore. Perhaps looking for something like a dresser or buffet would give you the dimensions you're looking for. I found many dressers that fit my dimension requirements and not all of them look like traditional bedroom dressers. The one I found has four drawers across the top and doors below which will provide great storage.

If you look at classically proportioned 19th century architecture, where the ceiling height often varied by floor, the tops of the windows are almost always higher than the tops of the doors, and personally I have never lived in a house where the windows were as low as 6'8" or 6'6" but I have lived in a number of houses where the doors were 6'8" or 6'6''. In the nineteenth century house I lived in, the first floor had 14 foot ceilings, 11.5 foot window heights and pocket parlor door heights and 8 foot "other" door heights. The entry doors were 8 with transoms, but there were no transoms between rooms. On the second floor the ceiling heights were 12', the windows were 10.5' and the doors were 8'. On the third floor the ceiling heights were 10' the window heights were 8.5' the doors were 7'. On the fourth floor the ceiling heights were 8', the window heights were 7'6" and the doors were 6'8". With slight variation this sort of thing was repeated all over the neighborhood, but one thing always remained constant. The window tops were never as low as the tops of the doors. This is the thing that they really only started screwing around with in the latter part of the 20th century, and I think part of it was that they started putting in smaller windows in the 1960s and 1970s in "traditional" styled houses and it was a choice of either having a window sill that was awfully high or lowering the window. But 6'8" for a window in a traditional house is awful low, in my opinion. Then in modernist houses window placement and door height started varying all over the place. Modernists first started doing full height doors to get rid of extra lines. The door touched the ceiling or there was a very small jamb stop at the ceiling. Then builders realized that the quality of the build had to be really high or the door started scraping unlevel ceilings even if it was under a half inch out of level. Window height often remained right at the ceiling line (mine are all 4" from the ceiling with the exception of one window that is "low" because of where it fell on the front facade --but this low window is still higher than the door by several inches). Eventually the modernists dropped doors down to regular height because they were mostly about affordability, too. But windows are often placed for how they will be looked out of. So there may be a very low window to service a seated view. Same with cottages, cottages traditionally have low ceilings and small windows, and the windows may be placed for seated views since they are small. Again if you go back to traditional houses for a minute, window tops were high to allow lots of light in, but door heights to some extent stayed lower partly to celebrate the height of the ceiling. If you just raise everything up proportionally, the ceiling height is not emphasized, and honestly I am not sure a lot of people would sense an 8'6" or 9' ceiling as much if everything was raised proportionally. A 7' door with an 8'6" ceiling is not going to look much different than a 6'8" door with a 8' ceiling. The bigger space above the door can celebrate the extra height of the ceiling. --As can a really high window because it shows more sky...two different heights, same effect. I really think the leveling of windows and door heights to the same height started happening when people starting doing whatever they felt like and stopped paying attention to classical architecture, and I think it can make for too low windows or too high doors and it can give the room a sort of lifeless "chopped off" appearance where everything stops at the same point. I think it's a mistake.

I live in a very traditional Colonial Revival built in the 1920s, before the advent of mass production tract houses. It was custom built for the president of the Singer Sewing Machine company, and so considered high end for the time. It has 8-ft ceilings, and all the base trim is original. It's in 3 parts, a 7" flat panel, an ogee cap and an ogee shoe molding. All told it is 8" high and looks perfectly proportional. Any time we've done any renovations we've replicated the molding for consistency and aesthics, which I think is important when owning a fairly old home.