You stated that the window at the bottom is to the floor and to change it would mess up the front elevation of the house. Given that constriction, I would do one of the following: 1) Swap Fridge and Ovens, place prep sink on the top side of the island. You would need to adjust the framing. Your primary prep space is the top side of the island - that's a long side, so will give you a lot of space. However, your prep is in the traffic path from FR to DR through the kitchen. 2) Move cleanup sink and DW to bottom end of island. Put Fridge at bottom of left wall, put prep sink somewhere on left wall, deepen left wall counters to 30". Your primary prep space is the left wall, with secondary on the island across from the prep sink, and neither are in a traffic path. 3) Move cleanup sink and DW to bottom end of island. Put Fridge at bottom of left wall, put prep sink on left side of island. Your primary prep space is the left, short side of the island, but I would still deepen left wall counters to 30" in order to have a secondary prep space. By the way, you will not be able to open a two-door or right-hinged single door fridge all the way if you put it against a wall like that. The wall blocks the door. You might be OK with that, but note you won't be able to pull out the drawers in the fridge for cleaning, or possibly even every day access. You need a single door fridge that is hinged in the opposite side from the wall if you want it placed like that, or the wall can only cover the fridge to the point it doesn't hinder the door swing (6" back, maybe?)

I appreciate Sena's layout. It was very nice, but I would rather not have the refrigerator in the dining room. The current peninsula is at the end of the kitchen but technically in the dining room. Sena's suggested putting the refrigerator in that spot. I would love a balance between function and form. Unfortunately, the space is tight and I have no choice but to work with it. This photo was taken from the dining room. The base cabinet shown is where Sena's suggested putting the fridge.

Welcome BennyBen75! Unfortunately, I do see some issues. First, the layout does not follow the workflow of a Kitchen. Kitchen workflow is: Refrigerator/Pantry --> Prep Zone with sink & workspace --> Cooking Zone with range --> Serving Zone with table --> Cleanup Zone with sink & DW Or, as Marcolo put it: Ice. Water. Stone. Fire. Ice = refrigerator (& pantry) Water = water source in the Prep Zone Stone = workspace in the Prep Zone Fire = range or oven (heat applied to food) [Marcolo's thread about workflow: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2699918/looking-for-layout-help-memorize-this-first] If you look at your layout, your workflow is... Ice --> Fire --> Stone --> Water Now, if you add a prep sink to your island, you have the correct workflow! Simple fix! . Next is the traffic. Right now, it looks like traffic is going to coming to/from the Back Hall and Veranda (backyard) by cutting through the Cooking Zone. The Cooking Zone should be the most protected zone of all b/c of the handling of hot food, flame (if gas), etc. The next protected should be the Prep Zone b/c of it's connection to the Cooking Zone as well as b/c you are working with knives, etc. We don't have a full-house layout, so I cannot be sure of the traffic patterns, but that's what it looks like right now. Could you please post a layout of the entire floor? . My next concern is the location of the DW. Ideally, dish storage should be next to the DW and close to the primary Serving Zone (i.e., table space, in your case the DR). Currently, you have your dishes split b/w the two sides of the sink & DW. I would rearrange it so the DW is on the other side of the sink along with meal dishes (plates, glasses, silverware, etc.) Then, I'd put mugs, coffee, sugar, etc., on the other side next to/above the Coffee Center. Another issue with the DW location is that it's in the path of your current workflow, which means dodging an open DW door to go t/from the sink and the Prep & Cooking Zones. Finally, the DW opens into the island and blocks the access to the DR. Your aisle is probably closer to 45" (more on that next), and while there is probably enough room to squeeze b/s an open DW door and the island, I'd want a few more inches. Add to that the fact that this is probably going to a busy area b/c of the Veranda door, and I think you would be better off with a 51-inch aisle (measured correctly). . Aisles are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest - counters, appliance handles, walls, etc. They are not measured cabinet box-to-cabinet box as the cabinet boxes are not the items that stick out the farthest - even without counters, doors stick out approx 1" beyond the face of the cabinet boxes. Counters extend approx 1.5" to cover the doors/drawer fronts & knobs/pulls. Don't feel bad, many KDs and most GCs/architects/cabinet salespeople make the same mistake. This means your aisles are narrower than you think. . Refrigerator. It appears you are recessing the refrigerator into an alcove. Be careful. The doors must stick out past the surrounding counters, walls, etc., to allow the refrigerator doors to open fully and provide full access to the bins and shelves as well as to allow you to easily remove the bins and shelves for cleaning without having to pull out the refrigerator. It looks like you have the refrigerator flush to the counters on its left and right - you need to pull out the refrigerator far enough for the doors to stick out farther. Are you building it in to make it look like a built-in refrigerator? It looks like you are, at least on the left, but on the right. To make it look built-in (a higher-end look), (1) Flank the refrigerator with 3/4" finished end panels that are only as deep as the refrigerator's carcass/box plus whatever air clearance is needed behind the refrigerator Be sure the end panels are installed so you have the required side air clearances (2) Install a full-depth (24") cabinet above the refrigerator and b/w the two end panels. The cabinet should be pulled out flush to the ends of the end panels and the refrigerator carcass/box. . . Some links that may help you understand our comments: Kitchen Design Best Practices/Guidelines threads -- These threads explain best practices/good design guidelines for items such as work zones, aisles, island/peninsula seating, etc. These threads will help you understand questions/comments you will receive. Layout Help -- FAQ for asking for layout help. It has a sample measured layout as well as a description of the other information we need Read Me thread -- Other, helpful information for using and navigating the Kitchens Forum. . Layout Help: How do I ask for Layout Help and what information should I include? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2767033/how-do-i-ask-for-layout-help-and-what-information-should-i-include . Kitchen Design Best Practices/Guidelines threads: Kitchen work zones, what are they? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638270/faq-kitchen-work-zones-what-are-they Aisle widths, walkways, seating overhangs, work and landing space, and others http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638304/faq-aisle-widths-walkways-seating-overhangs-work-landing-space-etc How do I plan for storage? Types of Storage? What to Store Where? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638376/faq-how-do-i-plan-for-storage Ice. Water. Stone. Fire (Looking for layout help? Memorize this first) http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2699918/looking-for-layout-help-memorize-this-first . New to Kitchens? Read Me First! http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4306041/new-to-kitchens-read-me-first .

How about a top-down cellular shade: when open, the fabric sits at the bottom of the window; you pull the fabric up to cover the window, the opposite of the usual. Bali offers cellular shades with up to one or two shades on one headrail. You could have two blinds, one that covers the left, operable window and one the covers the rest. You could pull both blinds all the way up for maximum coverage, or leave them part way down, leaving the top part of each "window" uncovered. Of course, you could get one full-width blind and leave the tops of all three "windows" uncovered. -- amateur